CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

The restoration/modification of Daisy.

The restoration/modification of Daisy... [5/25, test fire, She's ALIVE!]

:woot:

Any idea how long until you give it a test drive?


She's going to the driveline shop next week. I'll have the $$ for drivelines next Friday. Still need to wire in the dome lights, power to the doors and a little bit if HVAC stuff. She's insured, I'll get plates or at least a temp tag this week.
 
Dude I'm so stoked for you. I've been following this build for a while can't wait to see her move under her own power.
 
Nice man! THats exciting!



Dude I'm so stoked for you. I've been following this build for a while can't wait to see her move under her own power.


I'm sure my wife will get video, backing out of the driveline shop will be the first time I actually get to put it in gear and drive it.
 
well i wired up the TPS for the trans controller last night, soldered in, (took a long time, windy outside) heat shrunk, loomed all nice and neat. turned the key and all i heard was the throttle body chattering back and forth. start the engine and i've got no throttle. awesome...

so i did what any rational person does. slam the hood shut, throw a chair across the garage and give up for the night. i took a shower and when back outside because i wouldn't be able to sleep knowing something was wrong and cut the TCU's wires out of the throttle body wiring. started the engine, now i have throttle.
and that's where i'm at right now. i posted on LS1tech a few days ago asking which wires were which on the throttle body connector and based off the answer i got, wired it up. so obviously i got some bad information. here's what i got, that couldn't have been correct.

You would need to tap into the wires between the throttle body and the TAC module, the throttle body actualy has two sensors, I assume for safety with the DBW system. Sensor one is pins B, F, and E, sensor 2 is pins D, G, and H, at the throttle body connector. B and D are the respective grounds, F and G are the sensor outputs, and E and H are 5v reference signals. You should be able to tap into either set of wires to get the signal you need. They only thing I might worry about is the TCI unit increasing the current draw on the 5v reference too high, but that is unlikely.

then i found this picture on google which conflicts with that.
Throttlebody20055_zpsd5f6c265.gif


the TCU's harness had a 3 pin connector on it to plug into an older style TPS. which supplies 5v to one wire, TPS signal to one and ground to the third. according to that photo there are no ground wires to the throttle body connector, which doesn't seem right either.
 
Low reference = ground I do believe.


I was wondering about that.

I'm feeling pretty damn dumb right now. Messing with it today I keep getting a "comm error" from the handheld for the TCU. Part of the problem could have been that the junction block I had the "key on" power for the TCU wired to was dead. Gonna take care of that and see if anything changes.
 
Try it. As long as you are going 5v to 5v, ground to low reference, and signal to signal, you should be good. At least that's what logic tells me...
 
The restoration/modification of Daisy... [5/25, test fire, She's ALIVE!]

Try it. As long as you are going 5v to 5v, ground to low reference, and signal to signal, you should be good. At least that's what logic tells me...


That's what I was thinking too. As it turns out the three wires from the TCU are a 5V supply a ground supply and a TPS signal. They're for operating a separate, independent TPS. Since my TPS is already powered and functional, all I needed was the signal wire. I soldered it in, turned the key on and had the TCU calibrated and adjusted within about 20min. (feeling pretty dumb)
 
I finished up the fuel lines today. From the filter up to the engine, about 8', I ran nylon line with a female quick connect fitting at the fuel rail and a nylon to steel coupler to have a male fitting for the filter end. It doesn't look as cool as AN fittings and braided line, but the fuel inside doesn't care.
y3ybeje6.jpg


uta3ube4.jpg


2e2yrypa.jpg

Where'd you get the nylon fuel line? How do you like it? I just started researching fuel lines for when I move my tank and thought braided or rubber were the only options. I like the idea of quick-connect fittings.


**Edit** Also, did you use it just for the supply line, or the return line, too?
 
Where'd you get the nylon fuel line? How do you like it? I just started researching fuel lines for when I move my tank and thought braided or rubber were the only options. I like the idea of quick-connect fittings.


**Edit** Also, did you use it just for the supply line, or the return line, too?


I used it for both supply and return, I got it from Napa. It's rated for I believe 80 or 100 psi I'm not sure, so the 60 PSI of my fuel system is no big deal for it. I guess I like it so far it doesn't leak and it was easy to work with, time will tell how it holds up.
 
exhaust is done. my brother came over and welded it all up yesterday morning.i think it sounds great. i took a video with my Nikon but cannot get it upload to anything, Facebook, youtube, photo bucket, nothing... i don't know a lot about computers, so it's kicking my ass. i can take video with my iphone but it won't sound as good which kinda defeats the purpose... i also went to the DMV yesterday to get license plates but couldn't. back in 2002 when my dad gave me the truck he signed the title in the wrong place, as a buyer instead of a seller. so i had to get a form for him to fill out and he's going to get it notarized at work tomorrow. i should have plates by the end of the week. i also bought a tow bar from Harbor Freight to tow her down to the driveline shop sometime this week.

DSCN3201_zps06ef52a4.jpg


DSCN3202_zps8a6e4b35.jpg


i didn't see a need to make it bend up really high, this clears the shocks and it should be out of the way of the spring plate. we'll see.
DSCN3203_zps4fadcbfb.jpg


DSCN3204_zpsb5474b14.jpg


DSCN3206_zpsb3aae7c5.jpg


this will do for now, i'll probably do something different for a tip when i build a bumper of some kind.
DSCN3207_zps332fbfcb.jpg


tucked up nice and tight, no rattles, no vibrations and the whole system is really solid. at the tip is only wiggles 1/2" or so.
DSCN3211_zps7d1312ca.jpg
 
That is turning out real nice Muddysub! Clean and goo installs. What is the nylon fuel line you are using? is there a "J" number on it somewhere? I will be in same dilemma with my Tuned port setup having to run fuel liens to the front of the block.
 
That is turning out real nice Muddysub! Clean and goo installs. What is the nylon fuel line you are using? is there a "J" number on it somewhere? I will be in same dilemma with my Tuned port setup having to run fuel liens to the front of the block.

i got all my fuel line parts at napa, i'll get part numbers for you. it's all off the shelf generic parts, not OEM specific. i'm keeping part numbers and receipts as i go along to make my own parts book for the truck.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom