Just fronts for now, rears will be ordered after I recoup the cost of the fronts. Ended up costing $719 shipped.
CK5
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The restoration/modification of Daisy.
- Thread starter muddysub
- Start date
The new springs are here!! The new springs are here!! I'm somebody now!!!!
I just wish I knew they didn't come with bushings... I called ORD, the lady apologized and we got bushings coming for them. I didn't plan on installing them until next weekend anyway.
I just wish I knew they didn't come with bushings... I called ORD, the lady apologized and we got bushings coming for them. I didn't plan on installing them until next weekend anyway.
I'm in the phone book.
Martin
Martin
I thought your price sounded cheap. I was thinking to myself "wonder if he already has bushings..." 
Yeah they didn't mention that they don't come with bushings. They also didn't mention that the rear eye is a goofy size and you can't run a normal bushing and 9/16" bolt in it. So I've got rod shackles on the way as well.I thought your price sounded cheap. I was thinking to myself "wonder if he already has bushings..."
The restoration/modification of Daisy…
I'm out in the garage this weekend, working on interior stuff. Added sound deadener to all four doors, replacing window seals, and pulling the carpet to add sound deadener to the floor.
The stuff I'm using isn't really made for this application but it works really well. It's peel-n-seal window flashing. A friend of mine used to this all over the inside of his 78 C20, that thing sounds like a new truck from the inside and it's been holding up great for several years now. Here's a video after I finished the drivers door to show the difference that makes.
http://s413.photobucket.com/user/ca...4-4B18-9162-271228095B35_zpsqxbsjtrz.mp4.html
The new vent window seals are exactly what I hoped for. Along the back edge of the seal the new ones don't have the metal clips that the OEM units do. So you have to glue them in,which isn't necessarily a big deal but had I known I might have tried to find a different seal out there that might have those metal clips. So at the moment I'm waiting for glue to dry, figured I would post up some progress pics. Here you can see a piece of scrap metal but I've got clamped onto the vent window frame to hold the seal in place while the glue dries.
This is the first time I've replaced window seals, I ended up making myself a tool to make the process a little easier. I took a couple pieces of scrap metal here in the garage and shaped the ends to make things easier. I rounded off one and so I can slide it through the seal down the track, pressing the seal into the window tracks as it goes. The other and I cut a hook into so I can use it to grab things down inside the doors should I drop something.
I'm out in the garage this weekend, working on interior stuff. Added sound deadener to all four doors, replacing window seals, and pulling the carpet to add sound deadener to the floor.
The stuff I'm using isn't really made for this application but it works really well. It's peel-n-seal window flashing. A friend of mine used to this all over the inside of his 78 C20, that thing sounds like a new truck from the inside and it's been holding up great for several years now. Here's a video after I finished the drivers door to show the difference that makes.
http://s413.photobucket.com/user/ca...4-4B18-9162-271228095B35_zpsqxbsjtrz.mp4.html
The new vent window seals are exactly what I hoped for. Along the back edge of the seal the new ones don't have the metal clips that the OEM units do. So you have to glue them in,which isn't necessarily a big deal but had I known I might have tried to find a different seal out there that might have those metal clips. So at the moment I'm waiting for glue to dry, figured I would post up some progress pics. Here you can see a piece of scrap metal but I've got clamped onto the vent window frame to hold the seal in place while the glue dries.
This is the first time I've replaced window seals, I ended up making myself a tool to make the process a little easier. I took a couple pieces of scrap metal here in the garage and shaped the ends to make things easier. I rounded off one and so I can slide it through the seal down the track, pressing the seal into the window tracks as it goes. The other and I cut a hook into so I can use it to grab things down inside the doors should I drop something.
A friend came over and helped today, while I put sound deadener in all the other doors and floor, he installed my A/C compressor and a new 240a alternator.
Tomorrow I'll work on wiring up the A/C and installing a few more HVAC parts.
Tomorrow I'll work on wiring up the A/C and installing a few more HVAC parts.
That should make it a lot nicer to drive.
Martin
Martin
Have a link to the deadener you used? How's the coverage?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Good stuff! I plan on using some peel and seal also.
The restoration/modification of Daisy…
Here's the stuff I'm using.
http://m.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Ins...oors-Vents-Gutters-and-Egress-Windows/1018733
One roll will do 3-3.5 doors. Once you start doing the floor it goes quick. I've almost used 4 rolls now.
There's something I figured I would throw out there for guys that are looking to reseal their front windows. I know there is supporter of CK5 and all but I'm not exactly impressed with 1Aauto's vent window seals. The fact that they don't have those metal retainer clips on them makes it impossible to close the windows, it's a pain in the ass and now I'm trying to glue these ****ing things in.
I won't be surprised at all if I have to remove these things and put a different seal in there. I just hope somebody else makes one with the retaining clips like they're supposed to have.
Here's the stuff I'm using.
http://m.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Ins...oors-Vents-Gutters-and-Egress-Windows/1018733
One roll will do 3-3.5 doors. Once you start doing the floor it goes quick. I've almost used 4 rolls now.
There's something I figured I would throw out there for guys that are looking to reseal their front windows. I know there is supporter of CK5 and all but I'm not exactly impressed with 1Aauto's vent window seals. The fact that they don't have those metal retainer clips on them makes it impossible to close the windows, it's a pain in the ass and now I'm trying to glue these ****ing things in.
I won't be surprised at all if I have to remove these things and put a different seal in there. I just hope somebody else makes one with the retaining clips like they're supposed to have.
I went thru two different sets of vent window seals in my C10 and neither fit worth a damn. I ended up getting OE thru GM.... $$Here's the stuff I'm using.
http://m.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Ins...oors-Vents-Gutters-and-Egress-Windows/1018733
One roll will do 3-3.5 doors. Once you start doing the floor it goes quick. I've almost used 4 rolls now.
There's something I figured I would throw out there for guys that are looking to reseal their front windows. I know there is supporter of CK5 and all but I'm not exactly impressed with 1Aauto's vent window seals. The fact that they don't have those metal retainer clips on them makes it impossible to close the windows, it's a pain in the ass and now I'm trying to glue these ****ing things in.
I won't be surprised at all if I have to remove these things and put a different seal in there. I just hope somebody else makes one with the retaining clips like they're supposed to have.
Lilchubby
Registered Member
I got my seals from LMC Truck. Pain to put in, but they fit well and have the clips. I pulled the entire vent out of the door.
Does the stick and peel help with noise? Looks like it's for roofs? Does it get stinky and melty in the sun?
The restoration/modification of Daisy…
Yeah you have to remove the whole thing. I've heard mixed reviews about LMC's seals.
Yeah that's what it's for. It shouldn't be affected by the heat, it's made for windows and roofs. I'm putting it down on the floor in 90* heat and it isn't acting funny. It gets a little easier to work with when it's warm but I can't see it getting soft enough to create problems. My friend did his 78 C20 years ago and it's doing fine. I'm gonna put the OEM insulation back down over it before the carpet.
Yeah you have to remove the whole thing. I've heard mixed reviews about LMC's seals.
Yeah that's what it's for. It shouldn't be affected by the heat, it's made for windows and roofs. I'm putting it down on the floor in 90* heat and it isn't acting funny. It gets a little easier to work with when it's warm but I can't see it getting soft enough to create problems. My friend did his 78 C20 years ago and it's doing fine. I'm gonna put the OEM insulation back down over it before the carpet.
The whole front floor is done, gotta finish wiring up the a/c and stereo and put the interior back together. I put two layers down above the muffler, I can't wait to drive this thing now.
Awesome. Im gonna have to pick some up. What are you paying a roll for it?
How many rolls to do a blazer floor you think?
How many rolls to do a blazer floor you think?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I have heard people say it gives off a asphalt smell in the heat. But they say that if you tape the seams/edges it seals in the stink and you are good to go.
a Lowe's it runs $16 a roll. having done 6 doors and the front floor, I've used 5.5 rolls. i imagine the rear floor will take another 3-4.
it was 95* in the suburban when i got home today and started working on it and i couldn't smell a thing.
