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The restoration/modification of Daisy.

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Just in case anyone is wondering, Daisy is still kicking ass. It's been over 110° outside for about a week now and the AC is blowing cold, memorial day weekend we put almost 1300 miles on her, last weekend we put another 400 miles on her with a lot of forest roads mixed in there. She's even pulling daily driver duty right now as I no longer have a company truck. Aside from using a bunch of fuel, I have no complaints.

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For the blower on high, you probably burned up one of the coil resistors that are mounted to the evaporator box under the hood. The high setting bypasses the resistors.
 
nutt7 said:
For the blower on high, you probably burned up one of the coil resistors that are mounted to the evaporator box under the hood. The high setting bypasses the resistors.
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Possibly, but it's also starting to lose high blower at times and if I wiggle the switch it comes back. I also have no blower at all for the heater, just A/C. I'll pull the resistor tomorrow and take a look at it but I'm going to replace my switches in the cab also.
 
muddysub said:
Possibly, but it's also starting to lose high blower at times and if I wiggle the switch it comes back. I also have no blower at all for the heater, just A/C. I'll pull the resistor tomorrow and take a look at it but I'm going to replace my switches in the cab also.
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Oh yeah, if that's the case, the contacts might be gunked up. Not sure why having the heat on would make the fan not work though...that's weird.
 
My friend Henri came over today and we tore into Daisy's dash. We replaced a blown speaker and the blower speed and mode switches. We fixed some of the blend doors that weren't working correctly, sealed up some ducts and figured out that the blower relay was the cause of the blower speed failures. I also topped off the rear diff, it was the only fluid on the truck that was low.

The stereo sounds better, the AC blows harder than ever before and the Detroit in the rear end is smoother/quieter now. I'll change the oil and rotate the tires tomorrow, then Daisy is ready for the drive to Moab.
 
I got my very first check engine light today. Bank 1 knock sensor issues. Just so happens that it came on shortly after I washed the engine bay, I'm guessing I got too much water under the intake. I'll clear it and see what happens. I'd rather not pull the intake manifold tomorrow.
 
The sole bonus to that is it's really a quick job. Plus the gaskets are technically reusable.

They are way to expensive though.

Something I found that works and makes sense. Put diaelectric grease on the plug, then RTV the rubber gasket down. Should prevent future problems 99.99% of the time.
 
I cleared the knock sensor code before we left for Moab and it hasn't come back on yet, so that's cool. We made it to Moab, that's cool.

Daisy's transmission is dying, which isn't cool. It got super hot on I-70 yesterday, like 260*. It moves around town ok, but refuses to climb hills. She wouldn't even drag the yota up to the hells revenge trailhead today... It's slipping pretty bad and getting hot real fast. Trans fluid temp went from 175 to 245 in less than a mile.

The trans was used when I put it in the Suburban. I took a chance and ran it as is. It's given me 27000mi so I guess I can't complain too much. It just sucks that it failed 750mi from home, the week after I lost my job. Kicked me while I was down...

I looked/called around town and couldn't find anything, Moab 4x4 Outpost ordered me a new one. It'll be here Monday. So we're obviously not going anywhere, I'm gonna try not to break the yota now and enjoy this trip.
 
I read part of the other thread yesterday and was wondering, did it throw the light at 260*?

If so that's rediculous to wait that long to trip the CEL. If anything it should kick the light on at 220* and kick it off again at normal temps. Do you have a temp gauge?
 
454Sub said:
I read part of the other thread yesterday and was wondering, did it throw the light at 260*?

If so that's rediculous to wait that long to trip the CEL. If anything it should kick the light on at 220* and kick it off again at normal temps. Do you have a temp gauge?
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It warns you at 230 as well but I don't have a trans temp gauge or a light visible from the seat. The fault light (CEL) is on the TCU itself which is mounted under the hood. I've learned a few things; she needs more cooler, a gauge and an ECM segment swap so my GM computer can run this 4l80e instead of the TCI unit.
 
You have to specify that billet piston on your converter order. They are still sold with the plastic one or whatever it is.

I sent mine back because of that.
 
It wouldn't take much to adapt your harness to an 80e. The plastic plug is in every JY and there is only a small handful of wires.
 
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