The Shop Truck

[AJMBLAZER]

Please do tell.
Just in another thread we don't want to derail too much

Nothing here, just seen it before. Just saying all hobbies get expensive, involved, and frustrating.

 

[r3dd0g]

View attachment 502226

Is that hose cut - kinda looks like thread coming out?

That's a stainless braided line with a black sheath, there wouldn't be any thread in it that's not stainless. I went back and looked and whatever that is isn't there anymore.

 

[r3dd0g]

if it's too early in the morning for beer

 

[imiceman44]

View attachment 502250

Yeah I have a minimum 9am.
If it's before, it's coffee.
After 9am it's game on.
Not that I drink everyday or all the time, actually it's rare that I do these days but from 5am to 9am it's coffee

 

[r3dd0g]

This morning is looking up a bit. The JB Weld finally hardened up overnight. For 6 minute epoxy it took all of about 24 hours to fully harden and I can still put a fingernail mark in it. In my research on crank position sensor spacing issues with the Dart blocks, there were a couple threads stating that the cheapy Duralast sensor from AutoZone seemed to tolerate a larger gap. We picked one of those up last night and I installed it this morning. I got the truck fired back up and idling decent, after a bit of warmup I was able to rev the engine as far as I was comfortable (about 6500) and saw over 100psi oil pressure.
I grabbed a system log from this, but haven't looked at it yet since it seemed to be running OK. Now I need to replace the water pump so I can go on a test drive. I'm so sick of dumping fluids all over my shop.

Almost forgot to mention, the oil cooler block off did not leak a single drop, so hopefully that's fixed for now. The new oil pan will be here tomorrow, but I'd rather not pull the engine right now.

 

[r3dd0g]

I also ordered a Holley 12-1 external crank trigger to be delivered tomorrow in case I'm still having issues with the factory style one.

 

[r3dd0g]

New water pump is in and I took it for the longest test drive yet. The Duralast sensor worked better than the OEM ones for sure, but it still had issues. It struggled to get off idle, but once it got to 3K it was fine unless I really got on it. I drove it about 8 miles, but the last mile it was limping again. I grabbed a couple datalogs, I need to dig through them and see if I can see anything.
I'm really hoping the external trigger fixes it, that may make next Friday possible.

 

[r3dd0g]

Well, it looks like I'm having two different issues. I was digging into the logs when the engine was limping and discovered that my MAP sensor wigs out once it gets hot.

It's new to this engine, a 1 bar Rife MAP sensor, but when the engine starts to die out it's literally showing a perfect vacuum in the manifold, then it starts working again and the engine refires.

Trying to find a MAP sensor that doesn't require re-wiring anything today.

 

[centexk5]

My innovative map sensor died after about a month. It would go to reading-23.4” and then randomly bounce to 7psi and start activating the boost solenoid. I had it mounted under the hood. I moved it to the glovebox thinking the heat is what got it.

 

[r3dd0g]

I rigged up the old factory map sensor for now. Doing some acceleration enrichment tuning so we can actually drive it. I keep applying the learn table to the run table and it's leaning out the tune enough that now it won't accelerate. The big 102mm throttle blade is making this difficult.

 

[r3dd0g]

We went on a good test drive ,~15 miles. No issues but the tune. I keep adding more and more fuel to the acceleration enrichment and it's never enough.

 

[Tnsejed]

Can you see a desired PE lambda? What are your trims like when not in PE? If by applying learn to run table, and doing so without quite a bit of driving, then you could be filling it with data which is not stabilized. I.E. data which does not have enough counts in the cell to stabilize to a true trim. Steady state driving is key. Sure I don't know holley's system, but that is going to be the case for everything.

Also, if you are so rich you misfire the O2's can start reading lean as they are picking up the leftover oxygen.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Can you see a desired PE lambda? What are your trims like when not in PE? If by applying learn to run table, and doing so without quite a bit of driving, then you could be filling it with data which is not stabilized. I.E. data which does not have enough counts in the cell to stabilize to a true trim. Steady state driving is key. Sure I don't know holley's system, but that is going to be the case for everything.

Also, if you are so rich you misfire the O2's can start reading lean as they are picking up the leftover oxygen.

They Holley is a lot forgiving, it gets you in a good base but to iron it out it’s a lot of transfer or the up arrow on the keyboard.

The wilder the cam and throttle body the worse it is

 

[r3dd0g]

Oops, forgot to hit post on this one:
Another test drive, more tuning. The base tune they sent me is way fat, but they have it set for CL compensation to 50% in either direction.

I think 2 things are making me struggle with this, the massive cam overlap and the 102mm throttle body. I'm just trying to get it to run good enough to drive around and break it in. It runs smooth over 3K, somewhat rough 2k-3k and terrible below 2K.

Can you see a desired PE lambda? What are your trims like when not in PE? If by applying learn to run table, and doing so without quite a bit of driving, then you could be filling it with data which is not stabilized. I.E. data which does not have enough counts in the cell to stabilize to a true trim. Steady state driving is key. Sure I don't know holley's system, but that is going to be the case for everything.

Also, if you are so rich you misfire the O2's can start reading lean as they are picking up the leftover oxygen.

Yes, I can see the desired lambda, on the last drive I specifically found spots where it was having trouble and did some datalogging there. It's compensating up to 19%. I need to do a bunch more driving, I just wish it was running better already.

 

[r3dd0g]

Another longer drive and more troubleshooting. The tune is getting better and we discovered another issue. One of the last things I did before swapping the engine, is adding a second wideband. One of them is apparently going bad and giving crazy readings. We switched to modify with the left one and it got worse, so we switched to the right one and it smoothed out.

Now I've had Crank Sensor, MAP sensor and Wideband O2 sensor issues... On the bright side, the Duralast crank sensor is performing flawlessly, the Holley trigger wheel may stay in the box for now. Someone else pointed out that we can also get an LS9 crank sensor as it's a tiny bit longer since the reluctor wheel is 1/4' smaller. You just shim it until it has .020-.040 clearance.

 

[Chevy305]

Go back to a 90mm throttle body. The 102 is so hard to control air at idle and low rpm. You might lose like 3hp at the top top of the rpm band but the driveability will be so much better.


See Holdener's video:

 

[Tnsejed]

My 102mm only took a bit of blade adjustment to get the iac to 40 steps then I was able to keep working on VE. After VE getting the iac and braf happy was definitely needed but man now it really works well. Granted less wild cam, but it can be done.

 

[r3dd0g]

I think I'm going to try to make the 102 work for now. If it comes down to it, I'll get a smaller throttle body, and when I get the engine that's going to stay in the truck I'll go with the 92.
I was looking at some previous logs at the 2 different lambda sensors. Blue is the left side (the one that's been in the truck for a couple years), pink is the new one I just added a couple weeks ago.


This may have been part of my tuning issues...

 

[r3dd0g]

I looked back at some of my logs. I only logged one of my runs last time at the strip (was having issues with getting logging working) and the O2 sensors were in sync then, but reading a bit different from each other. The next log after that was with the new engine and the left 02 was all over the place. I'm not sure what happened, but something killed it in the process of putting in the new engine, or maybe on one of the other passes down the strip on the last night with the old engine.

 

[r3dd0g]

Back to the checklist:
Updated list:

• mount new slicks and see if they fit (I ordered a set of Hoosier BDR 28/10.5R17 tires to get my driveshaft speed down, old tires are 25.6" diameter)
• Speaking of the driveshaft, I need to do something about that. The plan was to drive it to the driveshaft shop to have them look at it and see what they can figure out, but it needs to be driveable first, this is one of the items that may make me miss next Friday.
• Make a mounting bracket for the catch can, make and run hoses for the catch can
• Fix the oil leak
• Wire the flex fuel sensor to the ECU
• Wire the N2O solid state relay to the ECU
• Make the rest of the -6 Nitrous line and install it.
• Fill the nitrous bottles
• Charge the A/C (it's hot here already)
• Engine break-in. I need to drive it 200 miles and change the oil.
• Spark plugs. I need to figure out what plugs to run and get those installed. I'm currently just running the same plugs as before (1 step cooler) because I had them.
• Tuning. I was hoping to get to a tuner, but I don't think that's going to happen so I have to figure the tune out. This is the other item that may make it so I miss next week. I can't even do the break in on the tune it has now, it's so lean it's popping and banging when I roll onto the throttle. I need to get that figured out ASAP, but I have to finish a few other things on the list before I can do that.
• Re-install the hood.

We just finished up the wiring and charging the A/C. We have over 100 miles on the engine now, I still need to get another 100 on it and change the oil today. Thing's are looking up, but I'm still not sure we'll have a tune and a driveshaft ready for Friday.