Is this what's considered a "big bottle"? https://www.amazon.com/Refrigerant-...ords=r134a&qid=1562168192&s=automotive&sr=1-3
CK5
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Yes
I live in AZ, A/C is a necessity so it's nice to be able to fix your cars or friends cars or RV etc. without having to go buy the expensive little cans all the time. Plus it's much harder to get the refrigerant out of the little cans (they get cold and the pressure drops), with the big can you just open the valve and watch the gauges until you get the pressures right.
This idea has me interested. I was thinking this past weekend Nicole's van could use a recharge.
Can you tell me what you do to evacuate the system? Or is that something that shouldn't be published on a "public" forum?
Can you tell me what you do to evacuate the system? Or is that something that shouldn't be published on a "public" forum?
No comment?
Pm incoming
Brothers has a good sale on an aluminum radiator for my 66. I was wondering if you have any feedback on the radiator you got from them?
It's worked well, I wish I got the LS version though as I'm going to pull the SBC... Not a huge deal, just have to use a longer upper hose.
One thing I've realized with Brothers is that they mark up everything they sell by a large margin. They had the (not labeled on their site) Dakota Digital dash "on sale" for about $300 over MSRP for instance.
If you can find who's radiator they're reselling, it will be cheaper elsewhere most likely. That being said, it's worked fine, so if the price is good to you, get it.
One thing I've realized with Brothers is that they mark up everything they sell by a large margin. They had the (not labeled on their site) Dakota Digital dash "on sale" for about $300 over MSRP for instance.
If you can find who's radiator they're reselling, it will be cheaper elsewhere most likely. That being said, it's worked fine, so if the price is good to you, get it.
I was thinking about that. If they can cut the price in half, then the normal price has gotta have a pretty large markup to begin with.
This isn't really an update, but I took a cool picture of the shop truck the other night and thought I should share.
Funny you posted in this thread, I was just wondering if you ever swapped out the EFI and/or intake.
Once we get to a good stopping point on all our other projects we're going to get back into the shop truck. I've already got parts piling up, but I need more.
Current parts:
-6.0 that was in the Blazer
-Holley Dominator
-Air bags for the rear
Needed parts:
-Heads/Cam for the 6.0
-Holley dash (or dakota digital if it's compatible)
-Parts to 4 link the rear
-Air compressor
-Bags for the front
-A/C compressor for the LS, possibly requiring a whole belt/accessory kit
It's running/driving now. Turns out the battery I had in it had some issues that dropped the voltage on startup causing part of my starting issues (voltage dropped too low for the sniper to work). It still idles bad and has other issues, but it is usable at least.
I did swap the intake, but it really didn't help any.
Depending on how things are going when you're ready, I might be interested in a deal on the Sniper setup.
LOL, the plan is to sell it with the engine as a running setup, but if that doesn't work out I'll let you know.
I'm dragging this thread back up from the dead.
We had plans for camping the full week between Christmas and New Years this year as usual, however the massive storm that was rolling through was going to make it an extremely soggy camping trip so those plans were scrapped. Amber and I talked a bit and we decided we'd work on the shop truck. A little backstory for those that don't know, the Sniper EFI system in the shop truck is hot garbage. I've had to send it in for repairs twice and I've repaired it myself once and it's dead again (won't fire the ignition), I've been collecting parts to put the 6.0 from the Blazer in it and we decided this was the week to start that project.
First things first, the old 350 was removed.
We didn't take any pictures but with the engine out we replaced the entire wiring harness with a painless 28 circuit kit that has provisions for power windows, door locks and other more modern stuff as well.
Once the factory wiring was buttoned up we started with the engine swap itself. The first step was to hang the engine in its new home.
It worked out that the crossmember I had made for the blazer looked like it would work in the C20 with a little clearancing of the factory crossmember.
By the end of the first day working on the engine we had it tacked in place.
I want to have all the creature comforts in this truck so I picked up a Dirty Dingo compressor mount that will tuck in by the frame on the passenger side.
The LQ4 I have has been sitting around for 5+ years so some parts are missing and we've been working on getting this back together. We fully resealed the engine, cleaned it up a bit and started reassembling replacing parts as we went. I found a neat steam port kit that opened up all 4 ports (There are plans for power adders in the future).
We're leaving the 700R4 in for now so we fabricated a TV cable mount and actuator arm to make that work properly.
The factory exhaust manifolds that I modified for the Blazer fit relatively well (no frame interference) but I did have to modify the passenger side one and the Y pipe to clear the 700R4.
We're slowly plugging away at all the basic systems on the engine/transmission/truck and once we have that sorted out I'll start with the Dominator install and wiring. Hopefully we'll have this thing fired up in a couple weeks.
We had plans for camping the full week between Christmas and New Years this year as usual, however the massive storm that was rolling through was going to make it an extremely soggy camping trip so those plans were scrapped. Amber and I talked a bit and we decided we'd work on the shop truck. A little backstory for those that don't know, the Sniper EFI system in the shop truck is hot garbage. I've had to send it in for repairs twice and I've repaired it myself once and it's dead again (won't fire the ignition), I've been collecting parts to put the 6.0 from the Blazer in it and we decided this was the week to start that project.
First things first, the old 350 was removed.
We didn't take any pictures but with the engine out we replaced the entire wiring harness with a painless 28 circuit kit that has provisions for power windows, door locks and other more modern stuff as well.
Once the factory wiring was buttoned up we started with the engine swap itself. The first step was to hang the engine in its new home.
It worked out that the crossmember I had made for the blazer looked like it would work in the C20 with a little clearancing of the factory crossmember.
By the end of the first day working on the engine we had it tacked in place.
I want to have all the creature comforts in this truck so I picked up a Dirty Dingo compressor mount that will tuck in by the frame on the passenger side.
The LQ4 I have has been sitting around for 5+ years so some parts are missing and we've been working on getting this back together. We fully resealed the engine, cleaned it up a bit and started reassembling replacing parts as we went. I found a neat steam port kit that opened up all 4 ports (There are plans for power adders in the future).
We're leaving the 700R4 in for now so we fabricated a TV cable mount and actuator arm to make that work properly.
The factory exhaust manifolds that I modified for the Blazer fit relatively well (no frame interference) but I did have to modify the passenger side one and the Y pipe to clear the 700R4.
We're slowly plugging away at all the basic systems on the engine/transmission/truck and once we have that sorted out I'll start with the Dominator install and wiring. Hopefully we'll have this thing fired up in a couple weeks.
I've never seen that beam you used to hang the engine. That's gotta be pretty handy when you're making custom engine mounts.
$85 at harbor freight. It's technically supposed to go between the fenders, but the c20 is WIDE so I put it in that way.
I've seen them used in some of the youtube content I watch, it worked out pretty nicely for getting the engine set up in there.
I've seen them used in some of the youtube content I watch, it worked out pretty nicely for getting the engine set up in there.
We're making progress and now entering the wiring hell portion of the swap. The engine/transmission/mechanical stuff is pretty much buttoned up (except A/C hoses).
We also got the ECU mounted and we're starting to work on the wiring. Power is done for the Dominator and we've started modifying the harness, hopefully I'll make some progress on that tomorrow.
We ran into a few snags, the Holley wiring harness is set up for knock sensors mounted on the sides of the block like Gen IV and V engines so there's a relocation kit and new valley cover plate on the way. Hopefully it will be running sometime this weekend or early next week.
We also got the ECU mounted and we're starting to work on the wiring. Power is done for the Dominator and we've started modifying the harness, hopefully I'll make some progress on that tomorrow.
We ran into a few snags, the Holley wiring harness is set up for knock sensors mounted on the sides of the block like Gen IV and V engines so there's a relocation kit and new valley cover plate on the way. Hopefully it will be running sometime this weekend or early next week.
We got a bunch done yesterday, more parts showed up, knock sensors were relocated.
The gauge bezel I ordered showed up as well and I built the new gauge cluster out. I apparently used the wrong wire for the alternator light because that's not working, but everything else seemed good.
After I button up the gauge cluster I'll start with the EFI wiring harness, time to drill a big hole in the firewall.
The gauge bezel I ordered showed up as well and I built the new gauge cluster out. I apparently used the wrong wire for the alternator light because that's not working, but everything else seemed good.
After I button up the gauge cluster I'll start with the EFI wiring harness, time to drill a big hole in the firewall.
Getting the dash bezel installed was a bit more difficult than it should have been.
It's a Holley part (553-419) made by Classic Dash, but honestly I can't find a single review of it on any websites. The whole thing is a bit too small (about 1/4" between the headlights and wipers), I had to drill out the holes to fit and now the chrome trim rings won't fit in the recessed areas. It came with nice black screws to match, however those were too short. Most of the screw holes are somewhat close to where they should be, but you do have to put the screws in at an angle.
I'll probably contact Holley or Classic Dash about it, I'm guessing when they made the mold they didn't accommodate for the shrinkage of the part when it cooled.
It's a Holley part (553-419) made by Classic Dash, but honestly I can't find a single review of it on any websites. The whole thing is a bit too small (about 1/4" between the headlights and wipers), I had to drill out the holes to fit and now the chrome trim rings won't fit in the recessed areas. It came with nice black screws to match, however those were too short. Most of the screw holes are somewhat close to where they should be, but you do have to put the screws in at an angle.
I'll probably contact Holley or Classic Dash about it, I'm guessing when they made the mold they didn't accommodate for the shrinkage of the part when it cooled.
