Thanks, I have a tendency to over build. Glad to see quarter inch plate is strong enough without direct frame underneath. I need to redo the decking on my equipment trailer. May be a good time to integrate into it for heavy jobs
CK5
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While testing travel and adjusting the bumpstops on the front end I noticed an issue with the passenger side lower control arm. The threaded inserts for the bump stop mounting bracket were installed off-center into the a-arm making the bumpstop bracket lean outward. You can see in the first picture how it's leaned out towards the steering knuckle where on the drivers side it's parallel to the control arm.
The result is that the passenger side is not contacting the crossmember correctly and only catches about half of the bumpstop.
I contacted QA1 about this and they are shipping me a new arm as well as the tool to remove/replace the ball joint, so excellent experience there!
Here's a teaser picture of the new tire/wheel package:
Also the parts removal pile for the next stage of the upgrade:
The result is that the passenger side is not contacting the crossmember correctly and only catches about half of the bumpstop.
I contacted QA1 about this and they are shipping me a new arm as well as the tool to remove/replace the ball joint, so excellent experience there!
Here's a teaser picture of the new tire/wheel package:
Also the parts removal pile for the next stage of the upgrade:
For the rear I had intended to install a dually C&C 14 bolt, however after a lot of research and looking around I found that AAM never made a 10.5 C&C dually axle so I'd have to go with a GM Corporate with drum brakes which isn't good, then I discovered that even if I went with the C&C axle it wouldn't fit under the bed anyways. I had a 10.5" SRW AAM in my back yard already so I cut off all the brackets, cleaned it up, installed a fresh Detroit Tru-Track torsional carrier and new bearings throughout. It already had 4.10 gears so I was good to go there.
Here's a shot of the naked frame. Apparently most C-20's came with coil springs in the rear, but mine had the "upgrade" to heavy duty leaf springs. I swear I'm going to be finding those rivets in my shop for the next couple years, they go flying when you hit them with an air hammer.
The AAM axle is 3" wider than the D60 I pulled out, this led me to find the wheels with the largest positive offset I could find other than DRW wheels. The Methods I chose have a +25mm offset which gets me 2" back on the rear. Unfortunately it still didn't tuck under the flatbed rails.
So I made a set of the worlds smallest fender flares at 1/4" which finally let me set the truck down and see what all this work was for.
I am very happy with how it looks on the new wheels/tires/suspension. Obviously this is the "aired out" stance and I wouldn't be able to drive it like this, but I will be able to park it like this.
Here's a shot of the naked frame. Apparently most C-20's came with coil springs in the rear, but mine had the "upgrade" to heavy duty leaf springs. I swear I'm going to be finding those rivets in my shop for the next couple years, they go flying when you hit them with an air hammer.
The AAM axle is 3" wider than the D60 I pulled out, this led me to find the wheels with the largest positive offset I could find other than DRW wheels. The Methods I chose have a +25mm offset which gets me 2" back on the rear. Unfortunately it still didn't tuck under the flatbed rails.
So I made a set of the worlds smallest fender flares at 1/4" which finally let me set the truck down and see what all this work was for.
I am very happy with how it looks on the new wheels/tires/suspension. Obviously this is the "aired out" stance and I wouldn't be able to drive it like this, but I will be able to park it like this.
I think this post is going to get the thread caught up to where I am at in the process. I couldn't find any 4-link kits that I liked, so I decided to make it myself.
The first step was to buy a new plasma cutter as my old one was not the best. After doing some research online I went with the PrimeWeld CUT60. I've been very happy with it so far.
I built the frame side brackets for the 4 link to bolt on in the factory front leaf spring mount rivet holes, I also added a gusset that goes forward about 8" to help control the torque that these will see.
After a ton of measuring I tacked together the links and made up the axle side plates. I did give myself 3 options for the links, 1" taller at the back, parallel, and 1" lower. Not a ton of adjustability, but I had the space to do it so I did.
For lateral control I opted for a Watt's link because, why not? Honestly with how close the tires are in the rear this will be nice to make sure it stays centered through all the travel. WIth a panhard I would have had to have it off-center at ride height so that it was centered when aired out. I bought a universal kit from NFamus Metal, made up some mounting brackets and got everything tacked into place. I had to remove a factory crossmember here so I'll be adding one back in with a brace that comes down to the passenger side Watt's link bracket for support.
Next up was the airbag brackets and shock mounts.
At this point I can finally pick the truck up and set it down without having to ratchet strap the rear axle, which is nice.
I have a pile of AccuAir and VIAIR parts that I need to get installed next so I can cycle the suspension under load before tearing everything apart for final welding. I'm hoping to make a dent in that pile this weekend, I'm anxious to get this thing back on the road.
The first step was to buy a new plasma cutter as my old one was not the best. After doing some research online I went with the PrimeWeld CUT60. I've been very happy with it so far.
I built the frame side brackets for the 4 link to bolt on in the factory front leaf spring mount rivet holes, I also added a gusset that goes forward about 8" to help control the torque that these will see.
After a ton of measuring I tacked together the links and made up the axle side plates. I did give myself 3 options for the links, 1" taller at the back, parallel, and 1" lower. Not a ton of adjustability, but I had the space to do it so I did.
For lateral control I opted for a Watt's link because, why not? Honestly with how close the tires are in the rear this will be nice to make sure it stays centered through all the travel. WIth a panhard I would have had to have it off-center at ride height so that it was centered when aired out. I bought a universal kit from NFamus Metal, made up some mounting brackets and got everything tacked into place. I had to remove a factory crossmember here so I'll be adding one back in with a brace that comes down to the passenger side Watt's link bracket for support.
Next up was the airbag brackets and shock mounts.
At this point I can finally pick the truck up and set it down without having to ratchet strap the rear axle, which is nice.
I have a pile of AccuAir and VIAIR parts that I need to get installed next so I can cycle the suspension under load before tearing everything apart for final welding. I'm hoping to make a dent in that pile this weekend, I'm anxious to get this thing back on the road.
I just got tracking information from QA1, my replacement arm should be here tomorrow!
Surprised you didn’t find a link kit you liked. The only thing I can come up with is, most of them have a big c notch and would cut into the bed making it useless.
Yes, that was the issue, I wanted the bars to be parallel to the ground at ride height and all of those kits are designed for the truck to lay frame and ride way lower than I will be.
If this thing doesn't run at least one course somewhere, with video, I will be very disappointed.
Top notch work as always.
I have been a firm supporter of the Watts Link system for a long time. Most builders don't want to put in the effort. I think it is just as easy as a panhard, just more time. And better results.
Top notch work as always.
I have been a firm supporter of the Watts Link system for a long time. Most builders don't want to put in the effort. I think it is just as easy as a panhard, just more time. And better results.
Does a drag strip count? I will likely need to add a sway bar in the rear, but I'll wait until I get on the road to determine that. The QA1 bar in the front is 1 3/8" so that will be nice, and the airbag system will have height sensors so it can actively keep it level, but I doubt that would be quick enough to be effective on a course.
Road course of some kind. Even a parking lot.
I'm sure I can find a nice curvy road somewhere for a video.
I'll video you.
I have a friend that is just starting to get into track days, it's a serious pain, I'm not sure it would be worth the effort for something so heavy and not really designed for that. I'd totally do an autocross or something though.
Used to go to them all the time. Haven't been in a while - not in the loop any longer.
Last time I went to this track, it was a pretty good setup
Last time I went to this track, it was a pretty good setup
Bring it out for Power Tour next year. They drag race and autocross most days. They would love it.
I definitely plan on doing some drag and drive events with it.
The new lower A-arm arrived from QA1 on Saturday so we got that installed and now the bump stop is hitting where it should!
The next order of business was to start mounting the air management system. I went with the AccuAir ENDO tank that has the manifolds/solenoids built into the end caps which should make for a cleaner install. Whoever designed the mounting system for this tank needs a swift kick in the butt. There are big flange head bolts that screw into the tank that are supposed to key into the PLASTIC brackets that bolt to a mounting surface, however the level of precision required to get all 6 to line up perfectly is insane, then the only thing holding the tank on is about 1/4" of plastic... I opted to remove the t-bolts and run bolts all the way through the mounting plate into the tank directly. Unfortunately I wasted most of Saturday trying to get the mounts to work properly... This is what I finally came up with for the tank mount.
That plate is just going to be welded to the frame behind the cab between the driveshaft and the bed.
Next we made a bracket to mount the air compressors. This bolts to a couple of the bed c-channel crossmembers.
The lead hoses/check valves on the compressors were just long enough to hook directly to the tank.
We're camping next weekend so I don't expect to make much progress for a couple weeks, but next we need to run the air lines, mount the ECU and control panel, run all the wiring, mount the ecu etc. Once we get everything installed and tested we'll tear it all down to finish welding/bracing and painting. Then it's on to the brakes. Hopefully we'll have it back on the road in the next month or so.
The next order of business was to start mounting the air management system. I went with the AccuAir ENDO tank that has the manifolds/solenoids built into the end caps which should make for a cleaner install. Whoever designed the mounting system for this tank needs a swift kick in the butt. There are big flange head bolts that screw into the tank that are supposed to key into the PLASTIC brackets that bolt to a mounting surface, however the level of precision required to get all 6 to line up perfectly is insane, then the only thing holding the tank on is about 1/4" of plastic... I opted to remove the t-bolts and run bolts all the way through the mounting plate into the tank directly. Unfortunately I wasted most of Saturday trying to get the mounts to work properly... This is what I finally came up with for the tank mount.
That plate is just going to be welded to the frame behind the cab between the driveshaft and the bed.
Next we made a bracket to mount the air compressors. This bolts to a couple of the bed c-channel crossmembers.
The lead hoses/check valves on the compressors were just long enough to hook directly to the tank.
We're camping next weekend so I don't expect to make much progress for a couple weeks, but next we need to run the air lines, mount the ECU and control panel, run all the wiring, mount the ecu etc. Once we get everything installed and tested we'll tear it all down to finish welding/bracing and painting. Then it's on to the brakes. Hopefully we'll have it back on the road in the next month or so.
Back to working on the Shop Truck! Saturday we worked on getting the majority of the air system wired up so we can test cycle the suspension. The ECU for the Accuair system looks like a flux capacitor, so I figured there was only one reasonable spot to mount it, right between the seats.
I can adjust the color of the lights and the brightness, but if I decide I hate it later I can always mount it somewhere out of sight behind the seats. I forgot to take pictures while we had it all powered up
so you'll have to wait to see that. We mounted the control panel right on the center console next to the shifter so it's easy access.
With the wiring hooked up (except the height sensors) we were able to test cycle the suspension, everything looked good so we tore everything back apart to finish welding/gusseting and painting. Sorry I completely forgot to get any video/pictures of us playing with the suspension...
I started with everything under the truck while Amber started painting all the small parts that didn't need any further welding.
After that I pretended I knew how to TIG and finished welding all the links.
Amber got the tank mount bracket painted, but there's still a ton of welding and painting left.
I haven't even started on the rear axle yet. I also have to figure out how to route the brake lines and e-brake cables since I had to cut all those tabs off.
We're taking a 3 day weekend next weekend, so hopefully it's a roller at least and I can get the driveshaft modified.
I can adjust the color of the lights and the brightness, but if I decide I hate it later I can always mount it somewhere out of sight behind the seats. I forgot to take pictures while we had it all powered up
so you'll have to wait to see that. We mounted the control panel right on the center console next to the shifter so it's easy access.
With the wiring hooked up (except the height sensors) we were able to test cycle the suspension, everything looked good so we tore everything back apart to finish welding/gusseting and painting. Sorry I completely forgot to get any video/pictures of us playing with the suspension...
I started with everything under the truck while Amber started painting all the small parts that didn't need any further welding.
After that I pretended I knew how to TIG and finished welding all the links.
Amber got the tank mount bracket painted, but there's still a ton of welding and painting left.
I haven't even started on the rear axle yet. I also have to figure out how to route the brake lines and e-brake cables since I had to cut all those tabs off.
We're taking a 3 day weekend next weekend, so hopefully it's a roller at least and I can get the driveshaft modified.
We spent most of the 3 day weekend working on the truck, but I didn't quite get as far as I planned. The majority of the welding is done and parts are going back together, but the axle will have to come out one more time. I still need to figure out brake lines and e-brake cables/mounts on the axle as well as figuring out a new crossmember to replace the one I took out and brace the Watt's link drop bracket, but I figured I'd share some pictures. The frame side link mount brackets got welded up, painted and reinstalled.
All the welding on the frame (besides the crossmember) and axle were finished up and the axle got hung back under the truck.
We also spent quite a bit of time figuring out how to mount the level sensors on the front suspension, but it came out pretty nice and it's tucked away where it shouldn't interfere with anything.
I was hoping to have the rear sensors mounted as well, but we just ran out of time tonight. Hopefully we can get out there after work a few nights and get a video of the suspension doing it's thing once we get it all together.
All the welding on the frame (besides the crossmember) and axle were finished up and the axle got hung back under the truck.
We also spent quite a bit of time figuring out how to mount the level sensors on the front suspension, but it came out pretty nice and it's tucked away where it shouldn't interfere with anything.
I was hoping to have the rear sensors mounted as well, but we just ran out of time tonight. Hopefully we can get out there after work a few nights and get a video of the suspension doing it's thing once we get it all together.
There's a guy I watch on YouTube that was doing behind the axle bag mounts like that and he was running bushings in his 4 link bars and noticed he was going through them pretty fast. He does welding trucks that are pretty heavy and the weight behind the axle was making it try to rotate the pinion up all the time and putting lots of load on the bushings. Yours has rod ends and I'm sure you won't be nearly as heavy and only once in a while but it's just something I never would have thought of. Semis run them like that but they typically have a Z-leaf or something that bolts to the axle but only pivots at the frame end. Carry on, sweet truck!
