CK5
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Wegner shipped the 370 amp alternator and provided a different (smaller) pulley for it since the secondary pulley on the balancer is smaller than stock. I put this pulley on the 240 Amp racing one, it's possible that they have a different pulley that would work on it. I plan on sending them an e-mail to see if they have a pulley that will work on it or if they can at least get me the right part number that I need. The alternator just appears to be an off the shelf Mechman unit. I don't believe it's anything special.
I love the whine personally. I get a kick out of hearing it on Pigeonrat. Putting the hood on will make a big difference too. Obviously your blower is bigger than mine (that's what she said 
), but I can't really even hear it with the hood on. Intake filter will mute it some too.
), but I can't really even hear it with the hood on. Intake filter will mute it some too.
Vac-n-fills are the way to go. That's pretty much what you have to use on any newer diesel with all the complex cooling systems and egr coolers. You leave an air bubble in one of them and they crack real fast. Only time I've ever run into issues was filling semis or equipment that are over like 12 gallons and running out of vacuum in the system before its full.
Vacuum bleeding it's the way to go for sure. It works great for power steering too
What vacuum bleeder are you guys using? I need to get one. I have a terrible time getting mine to bleed and I have tried everything but one of those.
For coolant I use an Amazon special universal kit.
For power steering I just hook a handheld vacuum pump up to the overflow hose on the PSC reservoir (the "pro touring" reservoir just has a hole, but the offroad reservoir cap fits).
For power steering I just hook a handheld vacuum pump up to the overflow hose on the PSC reservoir (the "pro touring" reservoir just has a hole, but the offroad reservoir cap fits).
I got one of those on Amazon too, haven't used it yet but I was supposed to have a job that needed it but she hasn't called yet
I've been cleaning up the last few issues and getting the truck back together so we can start the break-in. I put the 370 Amp alternator on and got in contact with Wegner. They're pretty sure they have a pulley that's going to work for me on the race alternator. Looking at the part numbers, the one from Wegner is for a 2016-18 GM truck where as mine is for the older LQ4/LQ9 trucks. I couldn't see one of the race alternators for that application, so hopefully the pulley solution will work, it's only off by about 1/8".
I talked with SmoothBoost, the reason the TPS autoset wouldn't work is because I didn't have the controller powered up. It works fine with the unit powered up. We finalized the install of that and got it calibrated and bolted down.
I also talked to my tuner and let him know about all the changes. He said they're only 1 to 1.5 weeks out right now so as soon as I start driving it for the break-in, I'll get the dyno session scheduled.
I also got the replacement belt in and installed so we did another heat cycle on the engine to verify the fans were working properly.
Here's a question for you, I used fancy t-bolt hose clamps on my coolant lines. I installed them and tightened them up, but when I was running the engine the other day they started leaking and they were all loose. I tightened them up again and fixed the leak, now 2 days later, they started leaking again and once again they were loose.
Is it wrong to use the t-bolt hose clamps in this application? Is there some point when they're going to stop loosening up (stretching?)?
Also, this time I ran it with the intake tube and filter installed, now I can hear it in the cab (with the hood off anyways) as it's directing the sound back towards me.
The biggest thing left is cleaning up and reassembling the interior. I haven't finalized any of the wiring inside the truck as I wanted to make sure I didn't need to make any more modifications. Hopefully we'll be driving it by Sunday though.
I talked with SmoothBoost, the reason the TPS autoset wouldn't work is because I didn't have the controller powered up. It works fine with the unit powered up. We finalized the install of that and got it calibrated and bolted down.
I also talked to my tuner and let him know about all the changes. He said they're only 1 to 1.5 weeks out right now so as soon as I start driving it for the break-in, I'll get the dyno session scheduled.
I also got the replacement belt in and installed so we did another heat cycle on the engine to verify the fans were working properly.
Here's a question for you, I used fancy t-bolt hose clamps on my coolant lines. I installed them and tightened them up, but when I was running the engine the other day they started leaking and they were all loose. I tightened them up again and fixed the leak, now 2 days later, they started leaking again and once again they were loose.
Is it wrong to use the t-bolt hose clamps in this application? Is there some point when they're going to stop loosening up (stretching?)?
Also, this time I ran it with the intake tube and filter installed, now I can hear it in the cab (with the hood off anyways) as it's directing the sound back towards me.
The biggest thing left is cleaning up and reassembling the interior. I haven't finalized any of the wiring inside the truck as I wanted to make sure I didn't need to make any more modifications. Hopefully we'll be driving it by Sunday though.
I said also a lot...
I have not had that issue with t bolt hose clamps. That does not make sense. They are not big enough to have that much expansion from heat. Have you tightened them while hot?
I just did
I prefer to use what are called "constant torque" clamps, which have a Belleville spring under the screw head. Basically a stack of concave washers, stacked up. They deal with thermal cycles better than T bolt clamps. I found them on Kenworth trucks first, but they are available in smaller sizes. Many also have a full liner, to prevent the hose from getting chewed up from the worm drive slots.
There are some clamps which have a coil spring under the nut of a T bolt clamp.
I don't tighten either style to the maximum when cold. Gotta have room for it to warm up.
Hopefully you got the T bolt ones sealed up now, though.
There are some clamps which have a coil spring under the nut of a T bolt clamp.
I don't tighten either style to the maximum when cold. Gotta have room for it to warm up.
Hopefully you got the T bolt ones sealed up now, though.
Do they have a pinch or nyloc nut on them? Every good, factory used t-bolt clamp on semis has a locking nut.
Yes, they do have nylock nuts. I don't think the nut is turning, I think they're just settling in or stretching or something.
Weird. I've always tightened them til the band sinks in flush in the hose material and then they are good to go.
I tighten them up until the torque spikes and leave it there, then when I check later it needs another full turn or so to get the same torque. I'll check again this morning, but I'm assuming they'll eventually settle in and stop loosening up.
Well, the hose clamps were a little loose this morning again... Hopefully they settle in.
While working with Wegner to get a different pulley for the racing alternator, I opened a ticket with Mechman to ask them some questions about RPM range. Apparently they build ALL of their alternators to work at 20,000RPM now, not just the racing ones. I'm not sure what is special about the racing versions. At least I'll have 2 good alternators I can run now.
While working with Wegner to get a different pulley for the racing alternator, I opened a ticket with Mechman to ask them some questions about RPM range. Apparently they build ALL of their alternators to work at 20,000RPM now, not just the racing ones. I'm not sure what is special about the racing versions. At least I'll have 2 good alternators I can run now.
Where did you get the clamps?
