CK5
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The Shop Truck

1971 Chevy C20 with a custom flat bed.
My cleaner/tester wasn't working properly so I took my injectors to AUS injection to get them cleaned and tested. Arizona driveshaft built my new shaft in record time. It's thicc.
IMG_20260917_142332049.jpg
 
When I told them the weight and HP of the truck and that I was adding a trans brake, they said that they couldn't warranty it and I'd be using it "at my own risk"... I'm not sure why they said that when they use the same material on the big diesel trucks, but that's what they said. They wanted to do chromoly, but there's no way with a shaft that long.
I dropped the yoke off and ordered the driveshaft yesterday at lunchtime.
 
I'm going to have to clearance the crossmember, but I think it will fit in my driveshaft hoop. 5" was the biggest they said they could do. I wanted to upgrade the transmission slip yoke to a 1410 to match the rear, but I can't seem to find one for a roller bearing (has to be hardened chromoly).
 
When I told them the weight and HP of the truck and that I was adding a trans brake, they said that they couldn't warranty it and I'd be using it "at my own risk"... I'm not sure why they said that when they use the same material on the big diesel trucks, but that's what they said. They wanted to do chromoly, but there's no way with a shaft that long.
I dropped the yoke off and ordered the driveshaft yesterday at lunchtime.
Sounds about right. I had a weird last experience when they said a 86c10 reg cab short bed needed a 2 piece driveshaft, they stopped when I said why did it come from the factory with a 1 piece only?
 
I wish I could do a 2 piece, but there's no way that would hold up to the amount of power I'm putting down in that heavy truck.
 
Depending on your shaft speed at the end of the track, it could be necessary. :dunno:
I'm sure your shop did the critical speed calc.
They'd have had to ask you your engine RPM and all that.
If they didn't, you need that checked.

In my burb, the 2 piece is my only option.
So eventually I'll have to build a cross member and get it done.
They can't make one in my length that will take 6500 rpm at 1:1 (3rd).
I'm sure yours isn't as long though, so maybe eeks into acceptable..


Assuming your making it to 6000+ in 3rd anyway..
Never pondered that:thinking:
Maybe it would be fine lol
 
Depending on your shaft speed at the end of the track, it could be necessary. :dunno:
I'm sure your shop did the critical speed calc.
They'd have had to ask you your engine RPM and all that.
If they didn't, you need that checked.

In my burb, the 2 piece is my only option.
So eventually I'll have to build a cross member and get it done.
They can't make one in my length that will take 6500 rpm at 1:1 (3rd).
I'm sure yours isn't as long though, so maybe eeks into acceptable..


Assuming your making it to 6000+ in 3rd anyway..
Never pondered that:thinking:
Maybe it would be fine lol
I would have to hit 135mph to get to 6000rpm (28" tires, 3.73:1 gears). I've only hit 120 in the 1/4 so far, but I'm guessing I'll be past 130 the next time I hit the track. When I looked at critical driveshaft speed, the bigger shaft gave me about 30% more RPM, so if I was good to 119 before I should be good to 150 with the new shaft.
 
I never looked at actual speed when I was figuring mine. Now I need to go back and do some math lol.
 

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