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THE STUBBY project / R.I.P . . . . . . . . . . .
- Thread starter sweetk30
- Start date
na thats cool tho. i have run these no problems for years. and i can get them cheep. i work at a auto shop . 
well welded up the holes today and drilled the new ones 1.5" farther in and up on the flat section.
gona blast them thursday at work in the rim cleaning machine. then drop them off for epoxy primer and white paint.
summit racing 16x10 d window 8x6.5 4.25 b/s 89.00 each.
checked them for quality of built on balencer . used lug centering adaptor and spun them up and was vary happy. only tiny wobble on the back side of 2. lot less than i was thinking for cheep rims.
gona blast them thursday at work in the rim cleaning machine. then drop them off for epoxy primer and white paint.
summit racing 16x10 d window 8x6.5 4.25 b/s 89.00 each.
checked them for quality of built on balencer . used lug centering adaptor and spun them up and was vary happy. only tiny wobble on the back side of 2. lot less than i was thinking for cheep rims.
Looks sweet! Are you going to send them out to be blasted and painted next?
I once powder coated a set of wheels for a guy in my oven here at home and this crevess in the picture where the center of the wheel gets pressed into the wheel hoop then welded on the back side made it a bitch to PC. The wheels were used so there was some rust in the crevess on all five wheels. I grit blasted all 5 wheels as good as I possibly could in a very powerful pressure pot type grit blaser with good Aluminum Oxide grit. No matter how long I pointed the gun at the crevess I could not get all the rust deep down in the crevess out. There was only a very small amount you could see, very small. So then I used a sharp pick and scraped and scraped and scraped to get as much as possible out.
When I did the first wheel it came out awesome.......except for that crevass. I guess from the rust, not really sure why but there was bubbling of the powder coat all around that crevass. THAT part looked like shat. I was pissed
. So I called the guy and said the only way I could think of to fix that would be to weld a full bead around the wheel in that area, then coat it. Said it would fill in the area and give the PC a nice surface to bond to. He didn't like the idea of a weld being seen there. So I said I could bench a full radius and blend the weld out so it is countoured and is smooth.
He said that would be cool, and could use the first wheel I PCed as the spare wheel. A beauty ring would still NOT cover that area up. He said he was going to run beauty rings on his wheels. So I proceed to weld all the wheels up. Then started benching the weld with a 3/8 diameted carbide derubing bit. Like whats used for porting a cylinder head. MY GOD that was one of the hardest things I have ever done
. It tooks hours and hours to do just one wheel. Went thru three burr tools bits at 8 bucks a pop. I PCed one wheel and it came out bitchin. But considering I was only charging $125 bucks for the set of 5 wheels I was losing my ass BIG TIME. It was my first set of wheels so I thought I would go cheap just to try it out.
I was done. Was tired as hell of deburing and my hands hurt like hell from deburing for hours and hours at a time. I would be covered in super fine metal shards of steel. It was horrible. A HUGE learning curve to say the least. I ended up deruring two wheels, powdercoated one with deburing, and of course the one without welding. Welded all of them as I said. Gave him back his wheels and his 1/2 half payment he gave me up front. Gave him the Yellow powder coat powder I ordered just for his wheels and said "dude, your on your own".
I hated the fact I could not finish them for him. He actually totally understood. He said he knew it was gonna be tough, but he said no problem, he would figure it out. I felt really really bad but it was just not something I was going to finish. I would have had 2K of time invested in those wheels for a crappy $125 bucks. No way, Hell no. If he would have just let me weld them and PC, it would have been all good. Never did a set of wheels again and never will
When I did the first wheel it came out awesome.......except for that crevass. I guess from the rust, not really sure why but there was bubbling of the powder coat all around that crevass. THAT part looked like shat. I was pissed
. So I called the guy and said the only way I could think of to fix that would be to weld a full bead around the wheel in that area, then coat it. Said it would fill in the area and give the PC a nice surface to bond to. He didn't like the idea of a weld being seen there. So I said I could bench a full radius and blend the weld out so it is countoured and is smooth. He said that would be cool, and could use the first wheel I PCed as the spare wheel. A beauty ring would still NOT cover that area up. He said he was going to run beauty rings on his wheels. So I proceed to weld all the wheels up. Then started benching the weld with a 3/8 diameted carbide derubing bit. Like whats used for porting a cylinder head. MY GOD that was one of the hardest things I have ever done
. It tooks hours and hours to do just one wheel. Went thru three burr tools bits at 8 bucks a pop. I PCed one wheel and it came out bitchin. But considering I was only charging $125 bucks for the set of 5 wheels I was losing my ass BIG TIME. It was my first set of wheels so I thought I would go cheap just to try it out. I was done. Was tired as hell of deburing and my hands hurt like hell from deburing for hours and hours at a time. I would be covered in super fine metal shards of steel. It was horrible. A HUGE learning curve to say the least. I ended up deruring two wheels, powdercoated one with deburing, and of course the one without welding. Welded all of them as I said. Gave him back his wheels and his 1/2 half payment he gave me up front. Gave him the Yellow powder coat powder I ordered just for his wheels and said "dude, your on your own".
I hated the fact I could not finish them for him. He actually totally understood. He said he knew it was gonna be tough, but he said no problem, he would figure it out. I felt really really bad but it was just not something I was going to finish. I would have had 2K of time invested in those wheels for a crappy $125 bucks. No way, Hell no. If he would have just let me weld them and PC, it would have been all good. Never did a set of wheels again and never will
I'd run a bead of silicone in that crevass to keep moisture out
felt real funny today setting 4 new rims in the blaster and hitting the button and 2.5 min later each wheel was bare metal. dam that was hard work.
already told my paint guy to prime them with epoxy primer . then use seam sealer in the area . then paint brite white.
live and learn oh ya.
been working on cars/trucks full time for 10+ years now. i know that road and have learend my info. and thanks for the heads up guys as if i didnt know this i would of surly used it.
already told my paint guy to prime them with epoxy primer . then use seam sealer in the area . then paint brite white.
live and learn oh ya.
been working on cars/trucks full time for 10+ years now. i know that road and have learend my info. and thanks for the heads up guys as if i didnt know this i would of surly used it.
well got my new nitro ujoints for the yukon shafts the other day. WOW big and beefy. just waiting on mad mac to clearence the shafts and ship them back . should have them be the end of this week.
and got the 10 new steering studs / nuts for the reid ( dedenbear ) knuckles. so i installed the studs / and spindle studs at the same time. all studs nice and new with new crimp lock nuts grd 8 for the spindle studs.
big and beefy. just waiting on mad mac to clearence the shafts and ship them back . should have them be the end of this week. and got the 10 new steering studs / nuts for the reid ( dedenbear ) knuckles. so i installed the studs / and spindle studs at the same time. all studs nice and new with new crimp lock nuts grd 8 for the spindle studs.
then i got this sweet yukon tool to help with my 5.13 gear swap.
then will help my buddy do his 5.38 gear swap.
and make money with this in my job.
oh ya the white unit is the optinal dana 70hd - dana 80 adaptor.
then will help my buddy do his 5.38 gear swap.
and make money with this in my job.
oh ya the white unit is the optinal dana 70hd - dana 80 adaptor.
well trying to get my project up and going still. but vary bumed out.
still waiting on my shfts back from mad mac c&m performance machine he has his reasons for being late but oh well i got the real story in my emails.
then i got my rims still sitting at the paint shop were i left them 3 weeks ago. stoped again today and told him i need them . he said by this weekend . will see what i get .
i got to get this thing rolling under its own power to get ready to ship it out when i get ready to move south here in a few months time.
dam i just wish people would do as thay say and come threw with the deals.
still waiting on my shfts back from mad mac c&m performance machine he has his reasons for being late but oh well i got the real story in my emails.
then i got my rims still sitting at the paint shop were i left them 3 weeks ago. stoped again today and told him i need them . he said by this weekend . will see what i get .
i got to get this thing rolling under its own power to get ready to ship it out when i get ready to move south here in a few months time.
dam i just wish people would do as thay say and come threw with the deals.
jimmyfloyd
Registered Member
Always a bummer when you are waiting on stuff.
Where are you moving to? Looks like there'll be one less local person for me to meet once I get my blazer running. Speaking of, if you can't work on your own projects this weekend, you could come help work on mine :-D
Where are you moving to? Looks like there'll be one less local person for me to meet once I get my blazer running. Speaking of, if you can't work on your own projects this weekend, you could come help work on mine :-D
north carolina down near raligh area .
south = lots more fun for 4x4 stuff and lot less rust to work on .
when = by end of summer i hope.
south = lots more fun for 4x4 stuff and lot less rust to work on .
when = by end of summer i hope.
well the shafts finaly come back to me modifyed to fit and clear the big nitro 300m ujoints with out binding.
man did thay get hoged out and the finish job is real nice . cant wait to assemble and test fit them.
man did thay get hoged out and the finish job is real nice . cant wait to assemble and test fit them.
ya today i tryed them in the spindle hole of the reid ( dedenbear ) knuckles. i read on here other guy had this problem. THAY DONT FIT ! you need to install shafts first then knuckle on after that. or you will grind off to much to keep them strong.
soon will have pics of nitro joints in and set in axle for clearence and lots of pics.
soon will have pics of nitro joints in and set in axle for clearence and lots of pics.
oh ya learend how to do my own gear setup from a good old timer . and i got those few tools to help. so first will prob be 14ff rear 5.13 and arb install .
then will do dana 60 super build front.
if you ever do gears i will say the yukon bearing puller tool is the BOMB !
then will do dana 60 super build front.
if you ever do gears i will say the yukon bearing puller tool is the BOMB !
got more goodys today .
daan from ruff stuff sent my order out and i got 14ff disk brake brackets .
then went to local parts store and got 2 new 3/4 ton rotors.
will be bolting this all on soon when i do gears.
daan from ruff stuff sent my order out and i got 14ff disk brake brackets .
then went to local parts store and got 2 new 3/4 ton rotors.
will be bolting this all on soon when i do gears.
