The Willomet Charger

[Babaganoosh]

That cam by itself won't work well with your heads or converter, or stroke, or vehicle combo Ben. It's also probably going to have more "chop" than your rattler cam but because of the duration, not the LSA.
I have an extremely similar but slightly larger cam in a 427 LS3 build I spec'd, 247/263, 297/313, .624 lift, 114 LSA, 110 ICL, I like a larger duration split with rectangular port heads. But these engines also has more stroke, higher compression, aftermarket LS3 heads vs your engine Ben. It also has and a single plane intake with Volcano dry nitrous for when you really want to go fast at the track. It's going in a 66/67 Chevy II so the owner wanted the carb look too.




David, have you seen the cross ram intake from Edelbrock, it has dual throttle bodies and a cool look that you might like for your Chrysler and may be 1/4 the cost of the Australian Harrop intake.

Available in Red or Black but could be custom painted obviously.

Cross-Ram Small Block Chevy LS3 Black Intake Manifold

Edelbrock Black Cross- Ram LS3 Rect Ports Intake Manifold GM LS Engines

www.edelbrock.com

I figured so, just wanted to see what it was. My little engine can’t do much in its combo.

 

[SPLATT]

Yeah. Some folks are pretty tender-hearted about this stuff. There’s a b-body forum that has me all but black listed.

David

I'm on a pro touring page and somebody built a ratty 70/71 Challenger with a LS and the hate he got, probably got more hate than the people get Chevy swapping a Ford.

 

[Babaganoosh]

The only cool modern dodge engine that would have been cool is a hellcat for this car and I’m not sure it can compete aftermarket with a LS being a dodge.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

building a car that’s fun and fast, and having reasonable expectations for how many horsepressures I need to do that.

I've always been into pounds per hp. I find for myself 10:1 is ok on the street. 8:1 is where fun starts - on the street. I don't think you'll be able to actually use much more than that realistically on the street. Which I ass/u/me you're building for...

 

[AgDieseler]

Found the build sheet.

Thank you. This is a great info to chew on.

have you seen the cross ram intake from Edelbrock

Yes, and it seems like a really good piece of gear. I'll dig around to see how it compares to individual stacks (like the harrop) and get some dimensions. It might be a bit wider than what I just finished building the dog house to clear. But, metal is clay.

probably got more hate than the people get Chevy swapping a Ford

Is it just people on the internet prioritizing their expression of an opinion over understanding others'? I am curious how the same people would behave if you put them at a car show in front of the builder.

The only cool modern dodge engine that would have been cool is a hellcat

That's a comment I've heard quite a bit, and it makes sense until I start digging into the details. The heavier iron block and blower height kill it for me. Even with a dry sump, the hood profile would have to be reworked to clear the blower, and that's a deal breaker for me. The scallops in the hood, especially the larger 1970 version, are my second favorite part of the car.

I've always been into pounds per hp.

This is a very useful perspective, and appreciate you bringing it up. At 600 rwhp, this would be a 5.83 lb/hp setup. Recalling my CTS-V (550hp and 4100lbs), that's a great level of street-friendly rowdy.

Meanwhile, trans crossmember is done. It got a few reinforcements and a spacer to help dial in driveline angle.



Corner is done.



Time to copy paste.

David

 

[AgDieseler]

This is one of those tiny projects that can’t be skipped.

The original rocker had this weird forward angle to it, and that did not line up with my frame plate. I had to add about a 3/16” strip to bring it to even.



This is how an hour evaporates with the snap of a finger.

David

 

[AgDieseler]

Almost done. Interior paint is drying, and I’ll weld the top tonight.



Then, back to the firewall.

David

 

[AgDieseler]

These little corners are actually pretty tough.

.120 to .063, .063 to .075, and .063 to .048, some of it still with galvalume, some not.



Glad to just work on some .030 to .030, next.

David

 

[AgDieseler]

Side firewalls tacked and first look at the front half -very- roughly fit.



Lots of trimming ahead.

David

 

[mrk5]

Those rough fittings help give you motivation. A hint at what's to come!

 

[Bent77]

I figured so, just wanted to see what it was. My little engine can’t do much in its combo.

What you’re fighting isn’t an engine problem. It’s a “I have a truck but want a chevelle” problem

 

[AgDieseler]

Those rough fittings help give you motivation. A hint at what's to come!

Yessir they do. I don’t know about you, but I can tell when I’m excited when I look at my phone photos and think through the next day’s work plan.

What you’re fighting isn’t an engine problem. It’s a “I have a truck but want a chevelle” problem

The doctor is in!

David

 

[AgDieseler]

Took a day off from the suburban, and started getting the side firewalls together.



In-position planishing rig.



David

 

[shady]

Lol. That's awesome.

 

[ashman]

I'll take "things I didn't think I'd see today for $500, Alex".

Took a day off from the suburban, and started getting the side firewalls together.



In-position planishing rig.

View attachment 485442

David

 

[AgDieseler]

One side done. Starting to blend the other.





David

 

[ashman]

is that a change from stock, or rebuilding the side panels to stock?

 

[AgDieseler]

is that a change from stock, or rebuilding the side panels to stock?

It’s my own profile made to suit the frame and body, but the general shape is similar to the original.

David

 

[AgDieseler]

I should have added some of the work to manage these shrunk welds on .030 mild, because it’s a persnickety material.

High crown on 2x4 with some decent pressure gets the weld seem maybe 80% close to flat, and then low crown on dolly without too much pressure gets a good bit closer. At that point, I dress down the peaks of the weld with a 50 or 60 grit 2” roloc, and come back with some light pressure low crown on dolly, working both sides. From there, it’s really a back-and-forth with the high crown on dolly and blending as the weld seam fully flattens to the work.

Low pressure is really important to avoid thinning the material and getting an unworkable oil can effect. Many light hits do add up.

David

 

[ashman]

Thanks for the added info. Sheet metal work is still a mystery to me, so it's interesting to read about the techniques involved.