Tow rig upgrade and trailer purchase ideas

[gotblazers]

So im getting ready to pick up a trailer so i can green sticker the 76. Theres countless obstacles ive backed down from because i had that lingering burden of having to drive it home but that will be no more. So heres the specs

Tow rig=73 k5
Tranny is already rebuilt th350 with a towing shift kit installed
Motor is a Slightly built brand new 350 that should push about 400 Horseys
Dif gearing is 3.73 on stock axles 44/12 with factory posi in the rear

Upgrade plans include
-Airbags in the rear,
-Weight Distribution hitch
-Tranny cooler and temp. Gauge
-Load E-range tires

Trailer is intended to tow a 76 k5 And eventually a buggy. The 76 k5 will be pretty similair to the buggy As fast as funds allow. So i dont expect the rigs weight to exceed 5k for the 76 and definitley not the buggy.

Trailer i intend to buy is ideally
1500 bucks used
2000 new plus tax
16-18' long
over 7 feet wide
7k Load rating with 5500LB payload
Electric brakes on both axles as its being towed by a 1/2 ton rig

Upgrades i intend to add
Cheapy smitty 8k winch
As much tool storage as possible up front without ****ing the tongue weight up.

Heres my main spots i need to get with this set up
1.hollister hills is my favorite wheeling spot so far
50 miles or so away and its only getting closer once my dad and i get into our new house in salinas or hollister. Its mostly all flat except for some long hills on the way out of san jose and then that drive in would be damn scary with a trailer but nothing a slow ride couldnt smooth out.

2.rubicon, Havent been there but i got a feeling i can get some good rock experience there
approx 250 miles away and i cant comment on the drive since i havent done it yet

Ideas besides commenting on the obvious wheel base issue of towing a k5 with a k5.

 

[Kota4bye]

Good luck. I know we just talked about tow ratings on the K5 a week ago or so, but a trailer with a K5 is going to put a hurting on the tow rig k5. You're going to have to strip a k5 down pretty far to get under 5k and then when you add the strength of tons it all comes back. Not to mention tools and spare parts and camping gear....I'd want a 3/4 ton burb to do the job.

 

[blazinzuk]

Certainly not ideal but you know that. Just go slow and be careful I think you will be fine

Also a slightly built 350 isn't going to be close to 400 HP. Although that doesn't really matter nothing is a substitute for a bigger engine when towing.

Its what you got make it work and I would also recommend a sway control and brakes on both axles on the trailer

 

[gotblazers]

Good luck. I know we just talked about tow ratings on the K5 a week ago or so, but a trailer with a K5 is going to put a hurting on the tow rig k5. You're going to have to strip a k5 down pretty far to get under 5k and then when you add the strength of tons it all comes back. Not to mention tools and spare parts and camping gear....I'd want a 3/4 ton burb to do the job.

I wanted a 3/4 ton diesel burb as you suggested and i got it. Unfortunately i wasnt realistic with myself about how much of a project it would be and i had to let it go. Lesson learned. I have been looking around and i can get a NICE 3/4 ton burb for 3-5k all day. I've seen a few with completely rebuilt drivetrains,paint and flawless interiors in that price range that i damn near sold my k5 to get. The 73 k5 may not end up being the tow rig for very long depending on how it pulls. Its still worth outfitting for tow use since i cant do any thing else with it (father/son project) and my dad doesnt share my enthusiasm for extreme wheeling. Appreciate your input man.

Certainly not ideal but you know that. Just go slow and be careful I think you will be fine

Also a slightly built 350 isn't going to be close to 400 HP. Although that doesn't really matter nothing is a substitute for a bigger engine when towing.

Its what you got make it work and I would also recommend a sway control and brakes on both axles on the trailer

I dont know the specs on the 350 . All i know about it is that it has a RV cam and its got a 650CFM edelbrock goin on it. The motor was built to go into my uncles chevelle which he decided to ditch when the economy crashed so according to him and my dad whos building the motor it should put out a convservative 400 off the crank. seeing as how i dont have any vehicles that put out over 200 horsepower it will probably knock my socks off .

Depending on how the 73 tows i may get one of those awesome burb deals once ive got something decent to wheel. Thats paramount ATM though since i havent been wheeling in 3 months

 

[K85 Octane]

if you can strip the play toy down enough, can you towbar it? Not ideal if something breaks, but it might be an option. I see that a lot around here, but YES normally it's jeeps and zuks on 33-40s getting towed.

 

[gotblazers]

if you can strip the play toy down enough, can you towbar it? Not ideal if something breaks, but it might be an option. I see that a lot around here, but YES normally it's jeeps and zuks on 33-40s getting towed.

76 is going to be green sticker as well as the buggy eventually.

 

[gotblazers]

Im curious to hear what you guys think about my trailer selection? About on par? Any recommended brands orr certain styles preferred over others oooor? This is pretty much my pre-buy brainstorm thread. Im hoping to get it bought in the next 2-3 months.

 

[K85 Octane]

craigslist
whatever you can find with a heavy enough axle rating and floor. The dual axle trailer brakes might be harder to find, I don't see those often. You can always outfit it yourself later more than likely
Your price range is difficult, just start looking and know you have 2-3 months to decide.
I can consult my cousin and see if he wants to sell his 17'x 82" trailer.

 

[gotblazers]

To give you guys an idea of what im looking at

http://fjmtruckcenter.com/inventory/?p=3040
This is my dream trailer and if i can find one used to fit my budget thatd be ideal

http://fjmtruckcenter.com/inventory/?p=3034
Although im likely going to settle for this

 

[rjfguitar]

The truth is, a K5 just doesn't have a high enough tow rating to haul a fullsize rig. Anything over 5K is pretty much not the best idea. You aren't the first guy that wants a K5 towing a K5 to work. I have done it myself, years ago I used my K5 to haul an F150 and my K5 at that time had it's current 9" lift and 35x16 boggers. Looking back, that was a stupid move. It's just too much weight for a K5.

But..... if you must do it, I'd recommend 3/4ton axles and an add-a-leaf in the rear pack. The 14BFF in the rear REALLY helps out with braking and the add-a-leaf will stiffen up the rear pack some.

 

[throttleissues]

Speaking from experience, you may have issues getting the K5 to balance properly without having the rear tires on the fenders with the drive-overs. Also, you very well may regret the narrow deck with your cheaper option. I would advise to consider something like this: http://fjmtruckcenter.com/inventory/?p=1820
Wth this trailer, width will never be an issue, and I really don't think the extra height is an issue. I would still upgrade the wheels/tires to 16".

 

[Kota4bye]

Speaking from experience, you may have issues getting the K5 to balance properly without having the rear tires on the fenders with the drive-overs. Also, you very well may regret the narrow deck with your cheaper option. I would advise to consider something like this: http://fjmtruckcenter.com/inventory/?p=1820
Wth this trailer, width will never be an issue, and I really don't think the extra height is an issue. I would still upgrade the wheels/tires to 16".

I'm not sure I'd want to tow a K5 on a deckover with a K5.

Gives me the willies just thinking about it.

 

[throttleissues]

8" height difference worries you that much? Maybe you should reconsider this whole plan then. Give some serious thought to whether you can balance a K5 or short buggy on a lowdeck without placing wheels on the fenders while you drive. Not likely with that short a wheelbase. I've ended up cutting out my trailer fenders for clearance, but I still can't put the rear tires of towed vehicle next to the trailer tires or they could rub.

 

[gotblazers]

The truth is, a K5 just doesn't have a high enough tow rating to haul a fullsize rig. Anything over 5K is pretty much not the best idea. You aren't the first guy that wants a K5 towing a K5 to work. I have done it myself, years ago I used my K5 to haul an F150 and my K5 at that time had it's current 9" lift and 35x16 boggers. Looking back, that was a stupid move. It's just too much weight for a K5.

But..... if you must do it, I'd recommend 3/4ton axles and an add-a-leaf in the rear pack. The 14BFF in the rear REALLY helps out with braking and the add-a-leaf will stiffen up the rear pack some.

I want to do the 3/4 ton axle swap but my dad loves the fact that its got factory posi in that rear 12 bolt and is convinced we wont have any issues . We'll see how it does really, If its all that bad ill probably pick up a suburban for cheap and call er done. Around here i can find the sweetest rust free great running suburbans so cheap it should be a crime. And with gas prices on the rise its only getting better for me.

Speaking from experience, you may have issues getting the K5 to balance properly without having the rear tires on the fenders with the drive-overs. Also, you very well may regret the narrow deck with your cheaper option. I would advise to consider something like this: http://fjmtruckcenter.com/inventory/?p=1820
Wth this trailer, width will never be an issue, and I really don't think the extra height is an issue. I would still upgrade the wheels/tires to 16".

Interesting, However my ideal trailer listed was wider than that in fact i probably wouldnt even need to drive over the fenders. And my less than ideal trailer had the wheels on the outside of the bed so its a non-issue. I will keep that in mind though its something i had not considered. The higher COG on that set up does turn me off a bit though since im already going with a short wheel base tow rig.

 

[shovelbill80]

Ideas besides commenting on the obvious wheel base issue of towing a k5 with a k5.

get a good 3/4 ton Suburban..............

 

[Kota4bye]

8" height difference worries you that much? Maybe you should reconsider this whole plan then. Give some serious thought to whether you can balance a K5 or short buggy on a lowdeck without placing wheels on the fenders while you drive. Not likely with that short a wheelbase. I've ended up cutting out my trailer fenders for clearance, but I still can't put the rear tires of towed vehicle next to the trailer tires or they could rub.

for the record, I think towing a k5 with a k5 is asking for trouble. I would certainly want to keep the load as low as possible. and I wouldn't want to tow it any further than necessary.

I don't have fenders on my trailer, so I don't have to worry about it, but if I put my rear tires over my axles, I would have a metric **** ton of tongue weight on my 16' set up.

 

[blazinzuk]

I would run as low a deck as possible. Not really for COG but for fuel mileage. Using a 96 Chevy truck towing a tubed out four runner, it gets about 10 mpg, towing a load that weighed close to the same but it was a car got 14.5 on one tank

I think you should be looking at the lightest possible trailer you can afford. That PJ buggy hauler is cool but I bet a solid 500 lbs heavier than just a normal car hauler. Since you plan to tow with the K5 you really really need to think about weight of the trailer too.

I would even go so far as to not carry ramps and would take out some of the boards of the trailer deck.

In your case it absolutely must be as light as possible. If the trailer doesn't come with brakes on both axles put it in the budget to do so.

 

[throttleissues]

for the record, I think towing a k5 with a k5 is asking for trouble. I would certainly want to keep the load as low as possible. and I wouldn't want to tow it any further than necessary.

I don't have fenders on my trailer, so I don't have to worry about it, but if I put my rear tires over my axles, I would have a metric **** ton of tongue weight on my 16' set up.

But with driveover fenders and an 18' trailer, it's a different ballgame. The driveovers are longer than normal fenders, let alone what you're viewing as "over the axles". It doesn't leave much room to scoot a K5 around. Look at the pics of his "dream trailer" if you don't understand what I'm getting at. The fenders reach way back on the trailer.

Interesting, However my ideal trailer listed was wider than that in fact i probably wouldnt even need to drive over the fenders. And my less than ideal trailer had the wheels on the outside of the bed so its a non-issue. I will keep that in mind though its something i had not considered. The higher COG on that set up does turn me off a bit though since im already going with a short wheel base tow rig.

I just know how easy it is to end up too wide to fit between fenders. 96" is a lot of room on a deckover, but you'll only have 83" at best between the driveover fenders, even though overall is 102". I have lived to regret buying a lowdeck trailer and having to modify it to fit some of the trucks and deal with not having tiedowns across the fender section. I thought the height of a deckover was a big deal when I was buying, but it's really a minor issue(only 6-8" difference).
On a side note, I think it's funny that PJ lists 15" tires and even mentioned 1800lb tire rating on one of their ads, which is barely enough for a 7k trailer. BTW, I'd upgrade the coupler to a 2 5/16" if you get the buggy hauler, too, since the trailer is rated at 9,990.

 

[gotblazers]

get a good 3/4 ton Suburban..............

for the record, I think towing a k5 with a k5 is asking for trouble.

This thread isnt about whether or not the 73 can do it. This thread is to figure out HOW its going to do it. Bunch of pessimist you are

I would run as low a deck as possible. Not really for COG but for fuel mileage. Using a 96 Chevy truck towing a tubed out four runner, it gets about 10 mpg, towing a load that weighed close to the same but it was a car got 14.5 on one tank

I think you should be looking at the lightest possible trailer you can afford. That PJ buggy hauler is cool but I bet a solid 500 lbs heavier than just a normal car hauler. Since you plan to tow with the K5 you really really need to think about weight of the trailer too.

I would even go so far as to not carry ramps and would take out some of the boards of the trailer deck.

In your case it absolutely must be as light as possible. If the trailer doesn't come with brakes on both axles put it in the budget to do so.

interesting... So the trailer that i listed as less than ideal is actually the ideal set up for me. I didnt realize having electric brakes was that vital but i will definitley put it up as a neccessity check mark when im going over potential trailers.

 

[blazinzuk]

interesting... So the trailer that i listed as less than ideal is actually the ideal set up for me. I didnt realize having electric brakes was that vital but i will definitley put it up as a neccessity check mark when im going over potential trailers.

Yep and a good controller best that you can afford. You think about it, you will be towing a truck with a truck that weighs the same. Or pretty close according to GM literally a couple pounds. That means your trailer is going to want to push you around. Having brakes on both axles will just help get you stopped quickly. Pay enough attention to your driving and being able to get stopped or slowed down quickly is nearly enough to avoid most accidents.


Also it will prevent overheating of your brakes in the tow rig another unsafe condition.

I would also seriously consider a rear sway bar.

if not I would say a sway control would be good.