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Transfer case options. Doubler or magnum
- Thread starter chris85
- Start date
Yeah I think he’s making them again, there was a post on Pirate last summer talking about them being available. I’d love one but it’s hard to justify $2k for a reduction box for my reduction box. LOL
Honestly, it’s for the best. If I had it I’d probably only use the 3:1 and never touch the 2:1 or 6:1. Down here stuff stays wet so while reduction is cool you still need more wheel wheel speed than 4:1 gives.
Honestly, it’s for the best. If I had it I’d probably only use the 3:1 and never touch the 2:1 or 6:1. Down here stuff stays wet so while reduction is cool you still need more wheel wheel speed than 4:1 gives.
Yes it’s a different world here out west. Not a lot of mud slinging or high horsepower stuff. Lots of gearing
It is an interesting thing to see some of the eastern and southern guys hit the high traction world
It is an interesting thing to see some of the eastern and southern guys hit the high traction world
you've seen the rock bouncers on backdoor 
Yeah, even when it’s not rainy and muddy here the (few) rocks can have a mildewy slim because of the tree canopy blocking direct sunlight.
Southern drivers + west coast traction = sounds like a popcorn machine. LOL
Southern drivers + west coast traction = sounds like a popcorn machine. LOL
I bumped a post in the tech section about the 241/205 stuff, my pictures seem to still be there. I wouldn't do it how I did though (without machining parts to stay concentric).
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Got my motor in place and got some eyeball measurements. This is not at ride height either....
So with the 4l80e/magnum/205 both front and rear driveshafts will be approximately 36” (give or take an inch or two) with the front being a little longer. Both at about 20-25 degrees.
I have room to modify my motor mounts and move everything forward 1-2”. It’s the TNA crossmember and LS mounts. What do y’all think? Is it even worth bothering with it or just go with it as is?
So with the 4l80e/magnum/205 both front and rear driveshafts will be approximately 36” (give or take an inch or two) with the front being a little longer. Both at about 20-25 degrees.
I have room to modify my motor mounts and move everything forward 1-2”. It’s the TNA crossmember and LS mounts. What do y’all think? Is it even worth bothering with it or just go with it as is?
My front and rear shafts are equal and I only need one spare. Pretty neat. I like mine that way.
Yeah that would be nice. Haven’t begun to think of spare parts yet but that would make life a lot easier.
I’m thinking I’m good to go on length and angles. Don’t really want to take this sucker out again.
Chris85...when you installed the TNA front xmember did you have problems getting the bottom plate to match the bolt holes?
I haven’t had any problems with it. My bottom plate is just on there hand tight at the moment.
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Yes. I had to loosen all of the bolts on the mounting points. Then I was able to get them all started and snugged everything down. It was surprising that the tiny bit of adjustment in the bolt holes at frame made the difference. I swapped to these mounts and crossmemeber on a side slanted gravel parking pad. It was bitch, but would have probably been a cinch if it was before dropping the motor.
Did mine in the garage. Used a bar dave made to rest on the inner part of the fenders to hold the engine up. I was thinking about having some shims made to go between the frame and the left and right mounts to cure that issue. I'd like to be able to drop that piece to take a peak at the bottom end of my 6.0L without a fight. My engine has the holley mounts with stock clams.
Is that an air block from say a KW or something i see in the firewall?
Is that an air block from say a KW or something i see in the firewall?
This was true for the original doubler kits when they first came out. At that time the manufacturers were making the intermediate shaft by welding 2 shafts together. I don't think anybody is doing that anymore for the 203/205s. They are all made from new, 1-piece billet steel. So now you can run the 203 in low and the 205 in high. I did it all the time with my truck
When I built my truck years ago, I bought a NWF 203/205 doubler kit plus some tcase rebuild parts. I had to pay duties, it was in addition to their parts cost. They forgot to send some parts, 1 thing was back ordered. The back ordered part never came until I started calling and asking about it. The parts they forgot took awhile to get as well, many phone calls and excuses. I gave them a 2nd shot when I ordered their triple cable shifters. Again, they forgot parts. Overall, customer service sucked and they were a pain to deal with. I hope that has changed now because overall, the parts were good quality. It just took a lot of headaches to finally get everything.
As for the talk about driveshafts, I ran 1410 joints all around with my truck. I had yokes at both t-case ends. I had a tom woods superflex joint at the front tcase output because the 205 was clocked up 3 inches. If I had to do it all over again, I would do the rear shaft the same with single 1410 joints front and rear. Keep in mind my truck was a k5 with the rear end moved back 5.5"s and only about 4-5" lift. But for the front I would have ran a flange at the tcase and used 1480 axle shaft yokes. Even with the superflex joint it had, the angle and clearance was pretty bad. Plus it made an awful chattering sound anytime I went over 10mph in 4x4 and let off the throttle. Made for some annoying times at the sand dunes
Yes the "updated" doubler versions are better, however it's still common understanding to not run the 203 in low and the 205 in high. I've seen some FB friends still break the intermediate shaft on their rigs running it that way on the "updated" versions (I will admit a lot of that comes down to driving style and type of rig it's in and how it gets used so many factors play into this, but still worth mentioning). In all reality, running it that way nets you nothing really since both range boxes are virtually the same gear ratio. Plus, in most cases, 205's are a bit harder to shift than the 203 range boxes, so to me it's a no brainer to keep the 205 in low, and then just shift the 203 in and out of high/low when needed. Then you never have to worry about the intermediate shaft at all and it's more enjoyable...but to each their own.
And like I said, I ordered my Titan box from Kris this time last year. And it took a little while to get to me cause his big 34 spline input shafts were on back order, but he was up front with me on that and his estimated time of delivery was spot on. Plus, I had an issue with my shifter setup that Kris went out of his way to help out with...nothing but good things to say about NWF
I run my 205 in low and my 203 in high all the time. Figure it is just like running a normal 4x4 with the 203 in high. Shifting the 203 is with out a doubt so much easier to shift.
Our shafts have been a one piece heat treated part from the start with the only real change being that we used to use a new stock 203 shaft and cut it down and they have about a 3/8" hole in the center as opposed to a solid core in the all new piece. The problem wasn't really the shafts as strength hasn't changed much. The problem with running the rear gearbox (the 205 in this case) in high gear is that you have one 32 spline shaft coming into the 205 and two 32 spline shafts coming out. If there is no gear reduction between the input and output, you can load the two outputs to a fraction of their breaking strength and break the input. If you have the 205 in low gear the input torque is doubled and then split over the two shafts. You will most likely overload one shaft or the other before you break the input.
This is why the Magnum exists. It gives you a big enough input that you can run the front gearbox in low by itself and this is what makes it a true 4 speed system.
Any stand alone style reduction box system that uses a regular input gear in the transfer case needs to be shifted properly, meaning the rear box (in our case the 205) put in low first and then the reduction box used when you need extra deep gears. Like others said here that tends to make sense when you're actually in the dirt since the reduction boxes shift easier than the 205 which is subject to drivetrain bind.
This is why the Magnum exists. It gives you a big enough input that you can run the front gearbox in low by itself and this is what makes it a true 4 speed system.
Any stand alone style reduction box system that uses a regular input gear in the transfer case needs to be shifted properly, meaning the rear box (in our case the 205) put in low first and then the reduction box used when you need extra deep gears. Like others said here that tends to make sense when you're actually in the dirt since the reduction boxes shift easier than the 205 which is subject to drivetrain bind.
