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Transfer Lowering: How much?

it's a bandaid imo.. shouldn't be needed if the sh*t's right..
 
do you see the other problem that is happening now? the driveshaft is pulling out of the t-case. it may get to a point that it is too short once you angle the rear pinion down.
 
do you see the other problem that is happening now? the driveshaft is pulling out of the t-case. it may get to a point that it is too short once you angle the rear pinion down.

I was kinda wondering that too. The amount of shaft sticking out now is about 3-1/2". How long is the shaft typically and is it still safe? I'd hate for it to come out.....obviously!
 
The shiny part of the yoke is how much it has pulled out, you may have another 4" to go.

If you get the CV added to the front, that actually solves the d-shaft length too because it makes it longer. They actually had to cut mine down to get the new end/end dimension correct.
 
After looking at the before and after pics, it looks like the shaft came out about 1/2" as a result of raising the transfer case back to factory location. If I have another 4" left, than it seems like I might be OK as-is.

I'll try driving tonight to see if I have any vibrations (new that is).
 
i might have missed it, but does the back currently have a shim in it?
 
Yes, there still is a shim under the lift block. Because I raised the case, it appeared that the axle angle increased (in the right direction) so I thought I would drive it first before pulling out the rear shims as well.
 
don't hesitate to yank that out if ya get ANY vibe... it'll make that back angle that much better....
 
If you're getting vibes because you have a SWB Blazer and lifted it then the correct and only correct solution is to go to a CV rear driveshaft, period.
Having the correct angles in the driveline is a correct solution. Converting to a CV joint is another correct solution. Whether or not you can get an acceptable result from the 1st depends on many things, like amount of lift, length of driveshaft (influenced by rear end, tranny, t-case combo, slip yoke or fixed, etc.), condition of the slip, tire size, gear ratio, vehicle usage and the owners expectations. 5* or less is rarely a problem. Anything over 10* will probably cause a noticeable vibe. Results vary widely, but this is a simple, strong solution that take a lot of angle without binding.

The CV is nearly sure-fire, but costs more. And if you need a lot of angle from it, that costs even more.
 
If you're messing with the shim, do some searches here on the right way to have blocks and shims installed on the spring pack.
 
just about every truck i've ever seen(still stockish) has that round spacer up inside the frame, NOT under the crossmember like in those pics...what does it do anyways??? how does it help the frame not rip out?
 
The ones I have seen are above the frame as well. The purpose of the spacer is to use a longer bolt. Longer bolt --> more stretch --> greater clamping force --> less likely to loosen up. The bolts should be purely in tension, with all shear force handled by the friction between the frame and crossmember.
 
Went for a test drive and I definitely have vibration now. Felt it pretty good at 15 mph and then it tapered off. Up around 40-45 there was a little more. So, I'll take the rear shims out and also see if I can get to harbor freight to get an angle guage to see where things are at.

What a difference in the vibration though....wow. From a truck that had hardly any vibration with the transfer case lowered TO stock position and lots of vibration. I would have never know it made such a difference!
 
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At least I did get SOME success this weekend. Fixed the rust in the tailgate....turned out pretty good!

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Thanks! Certainly not permanent or probably done correctly but it gets rid of the rust spots for now. I don't know how to weld and have no means of a welder so......a lot of bondo!
 
For some reason, I never clicked on this thread until now.

All I have to say about all these modifications is: :eek1::eek1::eek1::eek1::eek1:
 
any more progress?

Yes. Although I'll probably hear an earful, I went to 4WheelParts and picked up a Skyjacker transfer case lowering kit ($29). I plan to put it on this evening.

Right now, I can't drive the truck with this much vibration so it's parked. And I don't have $500 for a new CV driveshaft....:dunno:

I figure if they professionally offer these, than they must work for the majority. I also did some more digging on this site and have seen quite a few threads where other people have done the same thing and suggested the same thing in the past.
 
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