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Transfer Lowering: How much?
- Thread starter DieselWarrior
- Start date
scottsdale86
1/2 ton status
Try it it might work but just know it isn't the correct way to do it an usually causes more issues then it resolves. However, you might be one of the few that it actually does help. But i would start saving for a driveshaft asap. If it doesnt resolve your vibes i would remove it and then try again from there.
Yes. Although I'll probably hear an earful, I went to 4WheelParts and picked up a Skyjacker transfer case lowering kit ($29). I plan to put it on this evening.
Right now, I can't drive the truck with this much vibration so it's parked. And I don't have $500 for a new CV driveshaft....
I figure if they professionally offer these, than they must work for the majority. I also did some more digging on this site and have seen quite a few threads where other people have done the same thing and suggested the same thing in the past.
how much of a lowering kit is it?
i have one on my truck... not skyjacker though... but still I GOT TO REMOVE THAT THING!!!!!!!!!!
im gonna say drop 2".... and now my distro hits the firewall.... not too bad.. but my plug wires are tight on the firewall....
plus i have a 2 piece driveshaft in rear... and that has a lowered bearing in the middle... and if i launch hard enough.. i can get the back to hop off the ground.... angles SUCK
It's about 1" or 1-1/4". Definitely not 2".
I had VERY minimal vibration before pulling out the washers/etc. from the previous owner's work, so I am expecting it to be similar....just a better method.
I had enough room originally with the distributor.....enough so that the dealer was able to change out the whole dist. unit without any issues.
4WheelParts said they use this same kit on a LOT of jeeps. Very common.
I did pick up an angle finder at Harbor Freight. I'll do some before and after angles to see what changed.
I had VERY minimal vibration before pulling out the washers/etc. from the previous owner's work, so I am expecting it to be similar....just a better method.
I had enough room originally with the distributor.....enough so that the dealer was able to change out the whole dist. unit without any issues.
4WheelParts said they use this same kit on a LOT of jeeps. Very common.
I did pick up an angle finder at Harbor Freight. I'll do some before and after angles to see what changed.
ya shoulda tried pulling the shim out in the back first... probably would have gotten the joints pretty close to being in phase...
I can still do that before installing the t-case. This would help pretty much in BOTH cases (stock location or dropped) correct?
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Regardless of dropping the tcase they are suppose to be in phase IE matching angles.
YZEATER
1/2 ton status
The Jeep guys do it for the same reason your doing it, as a band aid. Why loose ground clearance when you lifted it? 4 wheel parts shouldn't be giving out advice.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Well, just finished installing the kit and the vibration is WAY better! I can now drive the truck without it vibrating everywhere! 
The drop was 1-1/4".
I tried to unbolt the rear U-bolts to get the shims out but they were on pretty solid. Even after some penetrating oil. So, I'm going to have to pursue that at a later time.
I did some angle measuring before and after.....
T-Case in Stock Position:
Rear Diff - Up 12*
Driveshaft - Up 18*
T-Case - Up 4*
After drop:
Rear Diff - Up 12*
Driveshaft - Up 14*
T-Case - Up 6*
The angles look better but it sounds like it might further help if I can get that shim out of there....especially if the diff and t-case need to be parallel.
Sorry I didn't go with the preferred suggestion but it's at least drivable now.
The 4WheelParts comment was from their "install guys".....not a sales guy on the phone. Don't know if that makes their comments more valid or not.
The drop was 1-1/4".I tried to unbolt the rear U-bolts to get the shims out but they were on pretty solid. Even after some penetrating oil. So, I'm going to have to pursue that at a later time.
I did some angle measuring before and after.....
T-Case in Stock Position:
Rear Diff - Up 12*
Driveshaft - Up 18*
T-Case - Up 4*
After drop:
Rear Diff - Up 12*
Driveshaft - Up 14*
T-Case - Up 6*
The angles look better but it sounds like it might further help if I can get that shim out of there....especially if the diff and t-case need to be parallel.
Sorry I didn't go with the preferred suggestion but it's at least drivable now.
The 4WheelParts comment was from their "install guys".....not a sales guy on the phone. Don't know if that makes their comments more valid or not.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
The 4WheelParts comment was from their "install guys".....not a sales guy on the phone. Don't know if that makes their comments more valid or not.
Your talking about guys whos hard day of work is bolting on bling wheels and tires to brand new street beater jeeps...
YZEATER
1/2 ton status
jeff: the only difference between the "kit" you got and what the previous owner did was spread out the load. when you bought it, did they ask if you had a blazer, shortbed or long bed, and how much block lift you had? this is trial and error, every truck is different, you have to customize it to work right.
sure this may get rid of your vibrations or lessen them, that still doesn't make it the correct way to do it.
when you lower the t-case, you also increase the angle of the front driveshaft
sure this may get rid of your vibrations or lessen them, that still doesn't make it the correct way to do it.
when you lower the t-case, you also increase the angle of the front driveshaft
Just specified Blazer and 4" lift. Again, I'll see how it goes. If I need to make another modification down the road, than I'll do it.
But CK5 webwheelers should?
YZEATER
1/2 ton status
maybe if you consider yourself a web wheeler, don't give advice.
some of us are trying to help him do it the right way, not sell him a "kit" to band-aid it.
some of us are trying to help him do it the right way, not sell him a "kit" to band-aid it.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
YZEATER
1/2 ton status
Why? You don't know what it is?
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Its been said numerous times. The correct way to correct vibrations is a SYE with a CV shaft. And if your not willing to own up to the cost of doing things the right way you shouldnt be lifting a SWB vehicle period. Its as simple as that.
Sorry but technical facts are NOT a matter of opinion like you're trying to get at. Dropped tcase are a bandaid and Jeff seems to be well aware of that.
