bet your motor mounts love you. CK5
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Transfer Lowering: How much?
- Thread starter DieselWarrior
- Start date
bet your motor mounts love you. zombie1969
1/2 ton status
Yes thanks for asking. Seee what I tell ya.You should be very proud
No cant fit more without hitting the firewall with the dist cap.I'm sure you could get at least one more spacer in there...
Rene
This helps me understand much better what I have now too.
The PO had a 4" lift and 37" tires. I now switched to 35" tires but still get a little vibration....especially at higher speeds.
It looks like the PO actually did do a transfer drop and from the pics about, probably not the best method.
So, should I raise it back up to stock height or fix the "stacked washer" method?
Also, I have included shots of the rear block. I think the lift is partial spring/ partial block to get the 4" lift.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
I hate to sound like I dick but I feel like we've been over this like 4 times in the past 6 months. Transfer case drops are not correct ways to fix anything whether you use square stock, the stock spacers, or gummy bears. If you're getting vibes because you have a SWB Blazer and lifted it then the correct and only correct solution is to go to a CV rear driveshaft, period.
Spacing the Tcase is a half assed fix period.
Spacing the Tcase is a half assed fix period.
plus that method WILL break the frame rails .
and that is a lift block and add a leaf in the next to the last leaf of the pack .
fyi someone blead the brakes notto long ago or you got a axle seal or wheel cylinder startin to leak. look at the backing plate in the last pic.
and that is a lift block and add a leaf in the next to the last leaf of the pack .
fyi someone blead the brakes notto long ago or you got a axle seal or wheel cylinder startin to leak. look at the backing plate in the last pic.
YZEATER
1/2 ton status
How about some pics of the drivshaft angles?
Thanks for the heads-up. I've done some reading on some older transfer case drops and wasn't positive on what to do.....that's why I just continued on another thread vs. starting a new one.
I just continue to fix problems from the PO.
I'll check into the axle seal leak. I haven't touched the brakes yet but that was on my list along with the front ball joints.
Here are the shots of my drive line. It looks like the front and rear axles are parallel to the drive shaft and then at the transfer case, they are angles. From my reading, I think the driveline at the axle needs to be parallel with the axle yoke.
Sorry if I duplicated a recent topic.....just trying to get my truck safe so my daughter can drive it in a year when she's 16.
You don't even want to see my front end yet.....4" lift and I think, still the stock pitman arm.
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YZEATER
1/2 ton status
well there's your problem. i'm talking about the rear axle. the t-case yoke angle should match the axle yoke angle. i would take out that little shim under the block and see where your at. the axle yoke should be pointing down 1-2 degrees past parallel to the t-case yoke to account for axle wrap.
if you take out your t-case drop it will be harder to match the angles, but it would be the right way to fix it.
the front shaft doesn't look to bad, but i would not worry about it.
if you take out your t-case drop it will be harder to match the angles, but it would be the right way to fix it.
the front shaft doesn't look to bad, but i would not worry about it.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Dont worry about reposting. I just feel like this one comes up alot but its not a big deal. I go on my transfer case drop rant everytime it does anyway lol.
Firstly Eater is correct. Your rear yoke should be in phase with the tcase yoke, not the drive shaft.
Secondly your going to want to take those shims out of the front drive shaft too. Despite the fact that the yoke angle is correct and matched to the drive shaft in the front its throwing your caster way out of whack which is literally one of the most important things to affect the trucks driving characteristic and is a huge red flag when you say this is going to be for a new driver!!!!
It is far more important to get your caster set 5-8* than it is to have your pinion up and caster at 0-2*. Makes for very better handling characteristics, and very poor return to center during low speed operation.
Firstly Eater is correct. Your rear yoke should be in phase with the tcase yoke, not the drive shaft.
Secondly your going to want to take those shims out of the front drive shaft too. Despite the fact that the yoke angle is correct and matched to the drive shaft in the front its throwing your caster way out of whack which is literally one of the most important things to affect the trucks driving characteristic and is a huge red flag when you say this is going to be for a new driver!!!!
It is far more important to get your caster set 5-8* than it is to have your pinion up and caster at 0-2*. Makes for very better handling characteristics, and very poor return to center during low speed operation.
Totally understand. I'm still a noob so answers to my specific needs gives me a little more comfort I am doing the right thing for MY situation (aka each truck is different).
Should I be doing these adjustments with the assumption that I raise the transfer case back to the factory location? I just need to support the case with a jack and then re-arrange the spacers correctly. Then pull the shim out of the rear pack. For the front, I don't see any shims in the pack so leave as-is??
Now that you mentioned the steering, it does move around when I hit large bumps. The local shop suggested adding some kind of link to level the "pitman arm with the steering rod??" It was either that or a new pitman arm.
Again, sorry for the noob type questions. I've concentrated on the engine and interior thus far but now need to focus more on the drivetrain. Thanks again.....
Oh, and my daughter won't get it for about a year....so I do have a little time. But I want to get it as safe as possible now.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Yes a drop pitman arm or raised steering arm will help your bump steer. Have the shackles in the front been replaced with longer ones? Honestly I would leave the crossmember on the frame and adjust to fix accordingly.
The caster can be measured but putting an angle finder on the inner C of the axle. Should be 5-7*
The caster can be measured but putting an angle finder on the inner C of the axle. Should be 5-7*
I don't know about the shackles......here's a pic.
The shackles look stock to me.
OK, thanks on the shackles.
I raised the transfer case but have not taken out the shims in the rear yet. I'll try it out and depending on what I hear/feel, I'll take out the rear shims (I'm in the middle of painting the back tailgate so I need it to dry before taking it out!)
Here are my drivelines now with the case back in the factory location.....
I guess the next step would be getting driveshaft angle tool.
I raised the transfer case but have not taken out the shims in the rear yet. I'll try it out and depending on what I hear/feel, I'll take out the rear shims (I'm in the middle of painting the back tailgate so I need it to dry before taking it out!)
Here are my drivelines now with the case back in the factory location.....
I guess the next step would be getting driveshaft angle tool.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Looking better.
You should be able to get a cheap angle finder at harbor freight or tractor supply. Caster should be 5-7* tilted back
You should be able to get a cheap angle finder at harbor freight or tractor supply. Caster should be 5-7* tilted back
DieselWarrior
1/2 ton status
Same problem here, before I installed a raised steering arm. Bumpsteer... as elusive as it can be to describe it to someone else, once you experience it... you know what it is.
Install raised steering arm: (Easy as lard is greasy!)
(BTW, the propane thing never did work out, just hammering on the curved angle of the
steering arm is all that was needed. DO NOT hammer on the nuckle or nuts.)
Also the shop was talking about installing a steering damper, or stabalizer (the horizontal shock that goes on the axle and steering linkage), which is a waste of hard earned money.
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DieselWarrior
1/2 ton status
Shackles look factory, Id have to go look at mine to compare, but they dont look any longer than stock. (I think). 
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
hey what kinda closed knuckle axle you running under the front of that rig dieselwarrior
the shop was talking about installing a steering damper, or stabalizer (the horizontal shock that goes on the axle and steering linkage), which is a waste of hard earned money.
not all true. 1 good shock does help normal road drivin up to 35" then if you want 2nd one for over 35" tires.
but just slapping them on or adding more than 2 is just a big waste its only for looks then or a BIG bandaid.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Despite the fact that I hate the liberal saying I'm gonna use it. We'll have to agree to disagree. I've got 36in TSLs and crossover with no stabilizer and have no issues. IMO steering stabilizers just hurt the power steering performance.
