YZEATER
1/2 ton status
the correct way has already been gone over in this thread.
CK5
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Transfer Lowering: How much?
- Thread starter DieselWarrior
- Start date
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Dont worry eater hes just trying to get at the fact that he thinks theres nothing wrong with tcase drops. Its fine let him have it seeing as how it already seems like hes not gonna drop it.
But like I just said technical facts arent open to opinion. Tcase drops are bandaids and not correct fix. If you dont want to pony up to to fix an issue associated lifting your SWB rig then guess what dont lift it.
A small T-case drop isn't the end of the world for crying out loud. Yes, there are "more correct" ways to fix the issue...but not all of us have hundy's dropping out of our ass.
I recently lifted my '90 4". Rear blocks (the horror!) and I dropped the T-case using the factory spacers. Oddly enough it rolls down the freeway at 70-80 mph without a single vibe.
As for exact opposite angles on the U-joints, it's great theory. In real life you just might find tipping the pinion slightly up works better for ridding yourself of vibes. An extreme example was on my old Jimmy. Doubler behind a NV4500, 6-7" of lift = really short rear driveshaft with a lot of angle. I had 1410's at the output and at the diff. Exact opposite angles had the U-joints almost in bind and the vibes were brutal. I tipped the pinion up as if I had a CV at the T-case output and the truck was very driveable.
I say unless you have the cash for a full on CV rear shaft do what you gotta do to make it driveable.
Rene
I recently lifted my '90 4". Rear blocks (the horror!) and I dropped the T-case using the factory spacers. Oddly enough it rolls down the freeway at 70-80 mph without a single vibe.
As for exact opposite angles on the U-joints, it's great theory. In real life you just might find tipping the pinion slightly up works better for ridding yourself of vibes. An extreme example was on my old Jimmy. Doubler behind a NV4500, 6-7" of lift = really short rear driveshaft with a lot of angle. I had 1410's at the output and at the diff. Exact opposite angles had the U-joints almost in bind and the vibes were brutal. I tipped the pinion up as if I had a CV at the T-case output and the truck was very driveable.
I say unless you have the cash for a full on CV rear shaft do what you gotta do to make it driveable.
Rene
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Lotsa big words for someone with zero cred
If you want to throw stones then support what your saying. Like I said this isnt a battle of opinions. Tcase drops incorrectly pitch the motor and front output shaft. Like we've all been saying its a bandaid and its definitely not good to put the spacers between the frame as it takes the stress of something that was spread out of a large area and puts it on 4 very small points...
Now if you'd like to back up how you're correct instead of just swingin your dick like you know all and we should just agree with you then go ahead.
I've been a member here for 3 and some odd years. I've learned a lot of **** and given people a lot of advise that either A) I had already been through and learned B) Already knew or C) Learned in school.
And Rusty I certainly dont have money falling out of my ass but the point still stands. I never spoke bad about hacking and tapping a tcase instead of forking out $600 plus a rebuild.
Hack and tap =$250
Machine cost to have your output drilled correctly=$50
Front drive shaft re-tubed for the back $100
Personally I dont think $400 or $500 is very much money to correctly fix a problem. And I'll say it again. If you are not ready to fork out the dough to correctly solve the associated issues with lifting a vehicle then you shouldnt do it.
Hell a 2" suspension and 2" body could save any person that wants to run 33s from said situation.
