SPID: Service Parts Identification label, usually in the glove box or on the driver's side fender well in the engine compartment. It shows options and things. Like this:
CK5
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Trying to keep it simple Suburban build
- Thread starter Simple91
- Start date
I need that deal. It would even be worth driving it down there for close to that!
Zindcustoms.com Johnny is a good guy he will work with you on price/budget. He's a bit eccentric but most custom painters are.
Looks like you have 3.42’s (GU6) (but you should confirm by pulling cover). Since the 60/14 arent matching set, i would throw in the 14bff and source a 3.73 10b, should be able to find for less than the cost to regear your current front 10b. The 60 will easily sell on its own, frankly probably easier than if pckaged with mismatched 14b.
If you want 4.10’s, just find a matching set of 3/4tons (8lug 10b and 14bff) and they will bolt right in.
If you want 4.10’s, just find a matching set of 3/4tons (8lug 10b and 14bff) and they will bolt right in.
While I subscribed to this train of thought for a while, i'd think twice about saving money swapping axles rather than gears.
For a dedicated wheeler, it may be a different story, or if your current axle is in bad shape.
But, every time i've done this, i've ended up spending more than it was worth to get the swap axle up to snuff before install. Be weary of used parts, and inspect thoroughly, few are the deal they look like. These used parts are 30+ years old now......
I swapped a 14ff in for the right gear ratio, and had pinion issues, which required a re-setup of the gears anyways. And full bearing rebuild.
Re-gear of my existing axles would have been one payment up front, but would have saved a lot of headache.
Just something to think about, based on the value of your time.
I definitely appreciate all of your thoughts and experiences. I run through all kinds of scenarios then come back to keeping it simple, not necessarily cheap but sticking to running what I have. Ive built this thing 1,000 times in my head but it comes down to rebuilding & re gearing the 10 bolts or rebuilding & gearing the 1 tons. As of this posting I am sticking with swapping in the 60/14 but that may change. I will never break them that's for sure. I flipped up the 2nd row seats for the first time even though I've had it a couple of years already and was happy to see the seats are in excellent shape. I also discovered that it was originally sold in Colorado and at the right moment and angle you can see where some lettering was on the side windows, I will try and research that too. Here is a pre paint pic, hard to see the roof and hood peeling.
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The front 10B needs ball joints and rod ends and has a broken u-joint so total rebuild.
It is 3.42 vaguely confirmed using the count the spins on the yoke method.
The great thing about tons is you won’t break them and you won’t worry about them. It’s the reason I bought my crusty heap to begin with. Body wasn’t worth a crap but the tons were worth it. Granted it cost me $5k to have them regeared with lockers and rebuilt but I’ve got a pair of axles I can do whatever the heck I want with and not worry about.
Sounds like tons make sense then. I would definitely upgrade to the 60/14 if that's an option!
They are sitting in the garage waiting.
It’s an excellent choice that you won’t regret or rethink once done.
4.56 with 700r4 overdrive is 3.19 final gear ratio. I am guessing your stock tires are 235"s at 29" dia 65mph is 2400 rpm re gear the 14b they are much easier than the d60, then when you get the bigger tires you know you want them you'll have enough gear.
