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TUBE ROLLER BUILD, UPDATE 1/24/12, post 71 NEW pics

rdn2blazer

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Well since I'm working 3rd shift and virtually no time for my truck I thought I would build a tube roller. I don't know why I want one but I have wanted to build one for some time now. I 'm copying someone else's design originally, but have decided to modify the design and actually make a adjustable duel roller design. Never seen that, or has never been done to my knowledge. This is what I was going to copy.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=788408


The design in the link below is cool, but non adjustable as far as the two bottom rollers. I like the adjustability of the first links design. But I like this guys motor drive and chain setup.

http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/...ead.php?t=2887 LINK NO GOOD ANY MORE.

Only thing about the, what I call "Fingers" design where you adjust the two bottom roller by moving the shaft to the next finger is the shaft is resting and riding on the radius of the finger of the plate and not on a bearing. The dies have bearings but the shaft still rides on the plate. Could gall possibly, probably not but still it just bugs me. The second link shows the dies on the outside of the frame. While the first design shows the tradidional design with the dies inboard.

I'm making mine with two sets of dies, inboard AND outboard. I will also have the chain drive setup similar to the second links design. Will have a geared motor to power the shafts through sprockets. I'm going to have a chain tentioner of somekind and will have to have a couple of different chains for the amount of adjustment I have built in to it. no big deal, will assemble easily.

The benifits (IN THEORY) of having a duel roller design is if I have to roll two identical tubes I can have two sets of dies and roll two tubes at once. They SHOULD be as close to identical arcs as rolling one at a time will yeild only closer and at once. I think having to roll one piece, then match the second tube to the first tubes arc will be tough and tedious. Also, when I'm rolling say mostly 1 3/4 and want to roll some square tube, the outer die set will be quick release design and will pop off easy for a different set of dies.

I'm not done with this, it's a work in progress. Still need keyed shafts, collars clamps and have some have machining to do. I have to machine the roller dies set and the top cross plate that will bolt the top of the plates together and has the acme threaded shaft threded into it for the pressure roller setup. I have the material ready to go.

I had to make a custom radius cutting tool for the roller dies which I did and it's ready to get to cutting. Still need sprockets and chain and the gear motor and power control aswell. Also the 9/16 bolts for the bearing blocks need to be cut off to length. The load on the bolts will be on shank, not the threaded portion of the bolts.

It will come together, but I'm STOKED I'm FINALLY able to get after it. The plate will get either Anodized or powder coated all Red. I have to make a frame on casters so I can roll it outside too. When tube is rolled, it tends to side curl somewhat. This is normal. When rolling two tubes I plan on having the two ends on both ends of the two tubes clamped together with a fixture I need to make to minimize the side curling. Both plates were match drilled and machined together so everything is perfect. What'cha think?

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That thing looks real nice, but what do you do with it??? Is it for rollong large diameter tube rings? Your work is always fawsome.
 
That thing looks real nice, but what do you do with it??? Is it for rollong large diameter tube rings? Your work is always fawsome.



It's for cage work like this


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That Pirate link has somebody doing the stupidest thing i've ever seen. The guy has a cresent wrench on the drill bit while the lathe is spinning. All it would take is for something to happen to make that drill bit get caught in the piece he's drilling and rip the drill bit out of the chuck and throw that cresent wrench right into the guy. Some people just aren't the brightest match in the book if you know what i mean. :rolleyes:
 
That Pirate link has somebody doing the stupidest thing i've ever seen. The guy has a cresent wrench on the drill bit while the lathe is spinning. All it would take is for something to happen to make that drill bit get caught in the piece he's drilling and rip the drill bit out of the chuck and throw that cresent wrench right into the guy. Some people just aren't the brightest match in the book if you know what i mean. :rolleyes:



Really? I've got to check that out, I guess I missed that! Edit, I remember seeing that too now. I thought the same thing. Some guys just don't know their risking thier lives running a lathe I guess.


Here is the build thread of the buggy in the first link I posted.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=538263&highlight=
 
It's basic physics. A piece of tube arced and welded at the ends and load put on top of the arc downward against the arc will always be stronger then a straight piece of tube welded at the ends and downward load applied. Your adding structure into the arced piece by doing just that, arcing it. If you have two points at 30" apart, and you have an arced piece welded at both ends, the tube is longer then the span of 30". Putting load against the arc it trying to force it straight and push the ends outward. A straight piece of tube is in it most nutral state, it will bend more easily in any direction load is applied.

One negitive thing about arced tube is in a side load against the arc you have aditional leverage on the tube because the load being applied is not in the same plane as the welded ends, so a side load would fold over an arced tube more easily because it's NOT in a straight line. There is areas where straight tube is better, and in some areas arced tube would be better. Gusseting plays a huge part in the design aswell.
 
That came out really good, looking at the things you make makes me miss my old job running a haas cnc, where we were able to make stuff on our own. My newer job tho i run a cincinatti nc one of the worlds largest....but cant make anything on my own....

seeing everyone on here build cages makes me want one, thanks.....lol, ive seen alot of cages with the arc style bent tube and always wondered how they do it.
 
thats some bad ass looking tube work. Someday an exo-caged s-blazer on a full size frame will be rolling around, but that's a someday project. haha

Good luck with everything.
 
Here is the two roller dies I have machined so far. In one guys build he used a material called Nylotron, a type of Nylon plastic. I used Delrin, It's strong plastic I'm hoping will work. If I have to go steel dies I will but I think these are robust enough that they will work. I have to broach them for a keyway. I'm not going to broach them thru the full length of the bore though. Since the radius cut is the thinest wall thickness area at 3/8 inch I will broach the 4" diameter area X's it's length. Less likely to crack. The groove it exactly 1.750. I tried some DOM in the groove and it fits nice and snug so it won't be trying to spread it and split the roller die. Making the third one tonight along with some other parts for the build.

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Looking good Robert.

Did you go back and look at the pic of the guy running the lathe while holding the cresent wrench on the drill bit?
 
Looking good Robert.

Did you go back and look at the pic of the guy running the lathe while holding the cresent wrench on the drill bit?



Thanks Scott. I did kinda look for it but could not find it. But I do remember seeing it though. I deleted one link I posted originally, was it in that link or the one that is still there?
 
It's on the first link. Here is the pic.




I bet the tang on the drill is broke off so he has the cressent there to keep it from spinning in the tail stock spidle bore. THAT is as dangerous as could possibly be. Just because he knows how to turn the machine on does not make that dude a machinist. one word..............dumbass. :D
 
I bet the tang on the drill is broke off so he has the cressent there to keep it from spinning in the tail stock spidle bore. THAT is as dangerous as could possibly be. Just because he knows how to turn the machine on does not make that dude a machinist. one word..............dumbass. :D

Like i said, he isn't the brightest match in the book. But hey, look at it this way, life wouldn't be as fun if we didn't have stupid people to laugh about. :haha:
 
Like i said, he isn't the brightest match in the book. But hey, look at it this way, life wouldn't be as fun if we didn't have stupid people to laugh about. :haha:


So true, so true:haha:. I have drilled thousands of holes with some BIG Morse taper shanked drills, biggest was about 3". I have seen lots of Morse taper drills with the tangs twisted or broke off completely. I would never consider doing something like that. When the tang is bad the drill is junk, unless you turn the tapered shaft round and can use it in a tool holder or drill shank. Drilling with a BIG 3" drill in steel is scary let me tell ya. You know the cutting forces on the drill in insane! if one that big snaps watch out!
 
I got the pressure roller die machined up. Had to make a custom 1.750 full radius tool bit to machine these. This of course would never work trying to machine a steel die. But the Delrin cut nicely even with this much surface area. Tool bit is just a piece of 1018 CR steel. I used a live center and had the material securely chucked in a 4 jaw chuck. Material was out of round so a 4 jaw was the way to go. Luckely it was oversized at about 4.100 dia so it more then cleaned up at 4.000. Just did a straight plunge cut and had to move .010 each way after the center was cut out and kiss it with some 400 sand paper and its smooth. Going to get more parts machined up tonight.

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Got what I call the saddle assembly for the pressure roller finished as far as I can till I get more parts. I need the Acme threaded rod and tapered bearing before I can drill and bore for the mounting of the acme rod. Also need the 1 1/2 shafts for the dies now. It's close to being finished up though. Also left the side plates long so I can cut to length and radius the ends to match the radius of the 4" dia roller. Since there will be nothing but down force on the plates, I mounted them underneath the top plate with fasteners and precision dowell pins. Instead of side mounting them and relying on the strength of the fasteners to hold the load.

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