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Tuning a GMPP 383

I had that happen before and could not understand why? Now it does make sense. :doah:

Go below 45!

Don't go above 95 because the injecters will go static (never turn off) waste of time and won't run right.
 
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That's a good deal, see if the WB controller is in the gauge and how hard it it to wire! If it plugs into gauge easy. When I got my Lc1 and moates gauge it was a pain.

http://www.eagle-mark.com/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=272

Narrow band simulater, from what I have used it for and what other people say, throughs in some glitches. Would be better for tuning to add another bung fo WB.

There are other Wide Bands to...
http://www.dynamicefi.com/TT-1.php

and
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/forums/showthread.php?6-14point7.com
 
I already have a second O2 bung installed which is where the new gauge will end up.

I did about an hours drive this morning and ended up with:

Short Term 128 BLM
Long Term 125 BLM

There a few cells that need some small tweaks and I'll have to do some more logging while towing when the weather heats up next spring but I think the VE is pretty stable and closet to done.

Time to look at the spark table now. lol
 
Your not going to do much better then the table Dave gives away, I tried. Figured I'd save you some time... could be tweaked if running 93 octane or day to day tuning for track, but overall everyday and weather it,s set.
 
eagle mark said:
Your not going to do much better then the table Dave gives away, I tried. Figured I'd save you some time... could be tweaked if running 93 octane or day to day tuning for track, but overall everyday and weather it,s set.
Click to expand...


Where can I find Dave's timing table?

In a 1.5 hour drive I only have 43 knocks
 
cuervo said:
Where can I find Dave's timing table?

In a 1.5 hour drive I only have 43 knocks
Click to expand...
That is good! Check again after working Dave's table in. Also look for where knock is specifically. Normally engines will get knock off idle or mid range where tourque comes in, same place fuel usually leans. Right where yours shows a tad rich! Which is ideal!

Your really doing well for a new tuner! :waytogo:
 
The $85 doesn't have a performance fuel enrichment table for WOT wide band tuning.

All I see is WOT Air Fuel Ratio Vs RPM. Is this the table I'll have to adjust for 3/4 to WOT tuning?


Here is what my current spark table looks like. It seems to have a few more degrees then Dave's table.

I guess it wont hurt to try Dave's.

mainspark.jpg
 
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cuervo said:
The $85 doesn't have a performance fuel enrichment table for WOT wide band tuning.

All I see is WOT Air Fuel Ratio Vs RPM. Is this the table I'll have to adjust for 3/4 to WOT tuning?


Here is what my current spark table looks like. It seems to have a few more degrees then Dave's table.

I guess it wont hurt to try Dave's.

mainspark.jpg
Click to expand...

Here is another timing curve I use. It's for a $E6 application. This timing table is dynometer tested! Are you ready for 310 HP rear wheels! Well, you might need a few engine mods?:doah:

dave w

 
Am I correct in the thinking in tuning spark table from what I read, and that is add 2 degrees and then check for knock?

Also, when checking the TPS volts to be .54 that is key ON engine OFF?
 
cuervo said:
Am I correct in the thinking in tuning spark table from what I read, and that is add 2 degrees and then check for knock?
Click to expand...

That would be a safe way to figure the max timing that the engine will run without knock.

I often advance the distributor 2 degrees, sometimes 4 degrees to figure a limit some cells can go without knock.

dave w
 
dave w said:
That would be a safe way to figure the max timing that the engine will run without knock.

I often advance the distributor 2 degrees, sometimes 4 degrees to figure a limit some cells can go without knock.

dave w
Click to expand...


How are you finding which cell the knock accrued in?

Dave, do you see a reason(gain) going from a 7060 to a 7427?


A rather dumb question here, but on a three wire O2 I assumed that it's color wire signal and the two white wires are 12v and a ground. Does it matter which is which?
 
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I'm letting Dave answer tuning knock cause I know he's better than me. Learn me Dave!

I go up slow, then watch recorded data for knock and stop, then find coresponding spark cell to retard, after I look at BLM to see it's not lean. Timely process. Depending on ECM they don't get O2 cross counts at WOT, so look for O2 voltage to be .850 to .950. That's a cheat. Richer than 14.7 to 1 which is around .500 but not off the scale of .999

As far as asking Dave if converting anything to 427 is worth it the answer is yes? Unless you already have LS1! :waytogo:

Heated O2 your correct. Does not matter which way to wire 2 white wires. one ground one 12 volt. Works either way.
 
cuervo said:
How are you finding which cell the knock accrued in?

Dave, do you see a reason(gain) going from a 7060 to a 7427?


A rather dumb question here, but on a three wire O2 I assumed that it's color wire signal and the two white wires are 12v and a ground. Does it matter which is which?
Click to expand...

The main reason I would upgrade to the '7427 is the faster baud rate. The 7060 is at the 8192 baud rate. DataMaster TTS supports the '7060, so in this case I would not upgrade to the '7427. The only reason I see for upgrading the '7060 is for an MPFI conversion.

Here are some pictures from Excel (my tuning tool of choice). Take note on where the knock count changes. Look at the Kpa / RPM / Spark Advance. Remove 0.5 degrees from the Kpa / RPM where knock occurred. Sometimes the knock occurs every time at the same given Kpa / RPM most times not.

dave w

Knock Count 01.jpg

Knock Count 02.jpg

Knock Count 03.jpg
 
Awesome, got it.

I like how you can start the export at any part of the log and then limit it to a set number of hits.
 
I know O2 sensors are supposed to fluctuate up and down, but after reading that O2 document on Mark's site it seems mine is staying too low too long.

Any ideas?

o2.jpg
 
I have seen data logs showing the O2 sensor with very low values for a very long time. I've seen this type of data mostly with a single wire O2 sensors. Usually the heated 3 or 4 wire sensors don't have the very long string of very low O2 sensor values like the one show above, but sometimes have low values.

dave w
 
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