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ugh. problems getting the truck to run after putting my old engine back in -Timing? Valve lash??

I did find a couple issues related to the helper at hand while swapping engines… first- he tried to put my serpentine belt on for me- I handed him the 1/2 drive ratchet and showed him the square hole… looks like he had already had a go at the torx screw with a bit that was too small.

EC2DD889-DE56-48A3-869A-5E34A53F1106.jpeg
 
Also- Yesterday I had thought I would pull the timing cover, just to verify no cam slip /time jump…

but considering I have to pull the starter, oil filter, clutch cover, oil pan, water pump, and pull off and then press the crank balancer back on???

I still think this is impossible and the cam could not have skipped time. Also- when I rotate the motor by hand and watch the valves move- sure SEEMS correct.

Also I did a compression test yesterday- at least verifies that the valves are closing, and the cam timing isn’t so far off that it’s holding valves open:


Compression test
8-184
6-182
4-179
2-180
1-180
3-172
5-180
7-180

The battery had already been through a lot of cranking- I started on #8 and think it got a faster spin than the others… also, keep in mind #3 has brand new rings- I have not been able to get the engine running to break them in yet
 
Last thing to add before I get back over there to try again for the 20th time…

I chased all vacuum lines again yesterday, and found the MAP sensor plugged into the wrong port. It was directly into the back of the intake- where the vaccume amplifier is usually plugged in. Pretty sure the port in the back of the throttle body comes out below the throttle blades , so I’m not sure if this would make an operational difference to the MAP??

On the other hand- all the backfiring that has happened- possible damage to the MAP? I tried another that I had on hand- not even sure if it’s for the same application, but it made no difference to the situation. I’m picking up a spare MAP from auto zone in a few min in my way back over to the blazer
 
Well, something isn't jivin here.
Basics will solve this.
Time to verify the timing chain hasn't jumped a tooth.
 
Just went through this on another truck. Was running then started running like crap, wouldn't idle, shut it off wouldn't restart, play with carb stated got driven home, barley running.
Shut off and wouldn't restart.
Engine is unknown maintenance, or mileage, only that it was Hecho in Mexico. pop the timing cover and double roller chain, nice and tight and pretty. double and triple check the distributor timing, no start. Now the distributor was showing some age, looked a little cruddy around the pick up coil. Stab a know good dist and new plugs, Vroom purr's like a kitten.
My theory plugs fouled out and wouldn't light ever again. Did we need the new dist maybe, maybe not. The old one did spark my spark tester, was it always sparking at the correct time is unknown.
 
Auto zone had stuff,so I bought stuff.
New china distributor with china pick up coil, china icm, and china cap and rotor…

Also got a separate ICM, MAP, and some other unrelated stuff that has been on the shopping list.

Ate gross McDonald’s burger and finishing my coke… then have all afternoon to swing a hammer at this thing
 
Sunday night update:

I tried a few things earlier that did not work. I went ahead and decided to check things out one more time before tearing the timing cover off –

Put the engine on compression number one – top dead center. I put a screwdriver through the spark plug hole so I could fill the piston. To my surprise, the piston was still moving as I bumped the motor-even though the engine was supposedly at top dead center.

I pulled all of the spark plugs again, and then spun the motor back-and-forth around top dead center, and put a pencil line on the harmonic balancer where I thought top dead center should be.
Spun the engine clockwise, and made a mark when it felt like the piston stopped – did the same thing going counterclockwise.


All of my pencil marks were happening at about 2 o’clock right under the timing marker on the cover…
But the factory mark on the harmonic balancer was way over at about 10:45!

I started looking at the balancer more closely, in the upper ring in the lower hub are not in line with each other anymore – it looks like the upper ring has moved towards the engine about an eighth of an inch. I crawled under the truck and grabbed the balancer from the backside and could fill the same offset on the inner surface.

The first picture is top down, the dark area is the upper balancing ring, and the arrow is pointing at the offset on the inner hub

C517CDA6-6FD9-455C-865B-32655E08C51F.jpeg

FB5AEA2A-E5DA-4AE5-B4E6-093825810C0B.jpeg
 
After checking several times and making a half dozen pencil marks in more or less the same two places… I split the difference, lined that new timing mark up, Pull the distributor out and re-indexed it one last time…

Even without the spark advance hooked up, the truck fired and ran. Not well, but it ran.
After Finding my pencil marks again and running a blue paint pen over them I was able to get the base timing set.

Engine quieted right down and is running almost hundred percent normally

85A38439-3087-4474-8B0E-5A15AE0CEE35.jpeg
 
Glad you got it figured out. spun balancer is always pita to figure out. The method you you used is basically the only way to figure it out, w/o a tear down
 
I have decided and should try to prove, that the woodruff key when #s 1 and 6 are at the top of the stroke, will be lined up with the center line of the drive side bank of cylinders.

can't see that unless you pull the crank bolt, or its a 283. It could be a useful indicator, or clue
 
Wes Harden said:
I have decided and should try to prove, that the woodruff key when #s 1 and 6 are at the top of the stroke, will be lined up with the center line of the drive side bank of cylinders.

can't see that unless you pull the crank bolt, or its a 283. It could be a useful indicator, or clue
Click to expand...
bolt will be coming out in the next day or two.

I assume that you mean i should be making sure the cam didnt also skip time?

I cant remember where the woodruff key is in relationship to anything else, but Im not sure i follow you on the instructions here--

TDC#1 -woodruff key should be pointed where?

like this picture?

you mean like this.jpg
 
Yeah that's what I am saying.
This just a casual observation, I haven't proved that yet.
 
Starting to look like this should have been posted in the garage... would have sworn i needed a new distributer or computer or icm...
never had a balancer spin before.


next concern, would be... this balancer was purchased new and attached to my crank when it was balanced (about 60 thousand miles, and a number of years ago)

I can go get a new balancer /damper from just about anywhere, but, whats that going to do to my crank balance? should i be trying to take whats left of mine down to a balance shop?

grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 
I am pretty sure they all are.
Balancer spin, is when the rubber between the crank hub and the iron ring allow the ring to rotate on the hub. This changes the index of the timing marks, making them wrong. It also adds a minor inbalance to the rotating assembly.
 
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