What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

ugh. problems getting the truck to run after putting my old engine back in -Timing? Valve lash??

Not all balancers are marked in the same spot. Some SBC's had a timing tab, that was located at almost 12:00 on the engine. Most SBC's had the timing tap located where yours is. The difference on the marks on an 8 in. dia. balancer is about 2 1/4 inches. The crank keyway, will be lined up with the drivers side cylinder bank, as in the picture above. Your balancer timing mark, should be slightly higher up the balance (ccw) than the keyway.
 
ZooMad75 said:
Damn dude that had to be one frustrating mess to figure out. Glad you stuck with it and refrained from taking a match and gasoline to the whole thing.

Good work!
Click to expand...

assuming the truck dies a death that the insurance would cover, im less opposed to the idea these days. BUT, whos going to reimburse me for that full tank of CA triple taxed gas$?????

I would no longer consider gas a commodity here. I would say its a precious resource that the political left uses as a weapon to stay in power and push their agendas now. If the blazer ever came to a point where it needed a Viking funeral, I would rather recover all the gasoline and start rubbing sticks together!
 
Newest development- pulled things apart AGAIN… and redid the valve lash, AGAIN… because the last 2 times the timing mark I was using was 40 degrees off.

Fired the truck again to make sure I had everything buttoned up. Ran great. Sounds like a new motor.

Buuuuuuuut then it stalled. Just sitting there idling along, and it stumbled for a sec and just shut off.

I hopped in and it had to crank a few times before catching… then ran beautifully for about 20 seconds, aaaaaaaand then “putt putt, off”
 
scouthead said:
Newest development- pulled things apart AGAIN… and redid the valve lash, AGAIN… because the last 2 times the timing mark I was using was 40 degrees off.

Fired the truck again to make sure I had everything buttoned up. Ran great. Sounds like a new motor.

Buuuuuuuut then it stalled. Just sitting there idling along, and it stumbled for a sec and just shut off.

I hopped in and it had to crank a few times before catching… then ran beautifully for about 20 seconds, aaaaaaaand then “putt putt, off”
Click to expand...
This is an independent problem.
You now know what was keeping it from running. Now, chase this one.
 
scouthead said:
yup. frustrating, but I will have to start chasing that- never a problem I've ever had with this truck in the past
Click to expand...
Not to derail, but I can relate, somewhat. All I did was change my oil and the truck went wonky with noises it never made before.

Good luck
 
Sounds like air or fuel. Trying to understand the timing of stall. Ran well cold? Then went into closed loop, stumbled a bit and then quit? Restart was longer then desired and ran for a few seconds?
If all that sounds right, then it runs under cold start conditions.
Higher idle richer mixture.
The tbi unit is same or different with engine change?
 
Wes Harden said:
Sounds like air or fuel. Trying to understand the timing of stall. Ran well cold? Then went into closed loop, stumbled a bit and then quit? Restart was longer then desired and ran for a few seconds?
If all that sounds right, then it runs under cold start conditions.
Higher idle richer mixture.
The tbi unit is same or different with engine change?
Click to expand...

Same TBI unit- is one that Vic Morse bored for me... injector pod spacer, blah blah blah... not stock, but it was on engine 1, went on engine 2, and then back on engine 1 now.


yeah- it was running like a top, and MAY have gone into closed loop, but the gauge on the dash was barely coming up off the stopped/cold position on the left (i know this does not correspond to the coolant temp sensor on the front of the intake, so who knows if it was warm enough for closed loop- Maybe!)


and something happened - lost spark or fuel. it went from humming along at normal idle speeds, to "puff puff, off." very abrupt. check engine light was on after the stall, but no time to investigate yet. maybe tonight.


except for the puff puff it did before stopping, it was almost as fast as shutting the key off. And considering it had to crank the engine for 3-4 seconds before starting again, im thinking maybe fuel related... wild guess.
 
also, considering all the wiring getting tugged and connected and disconnected and reconnected over the last 2 weeks... im hoping nothing damaged, but wouldnt suprise me if i have collateral damage with all this old stuff - haven't seen any broken or pulled wires...

what would kill fuel instantly? oil pressure sender fault?
need to check the idle air control valve as well. I was not in the truck either of the times it died idling last night- throttle was closed... could have been IAC related too.

will have to get home earlier tonight or tomorrow so i can start going over all this TBI stuff again. MAYBE THIS THREAD DOES BELONG IN THE INJECTION SECTION AFTER ALL :doah:
 
500$k5 said:
Not all balancers are marked in the same spot. Some SBC's had a timing tab, that was located at almost 12:00 on the engine. Most SBC's had the timing tap located where yours is. The difference on the marks on an 8 in. dia. balancer is about 2 1/4 inches. The crank keyway, will be lined up with the drivers side cylinder bank, as in the picture above. Your balancer timing mark, should be slightly higher up the balance (ccw) than the keyway.
Click to expand...
Yes, I found out my balancer doesn't match the tab, so I just put timing tape on it. Pretty handy, really.
scouthead said:
what would kill fuel instantly? oil pressure sender fault?
need to check the idle air control valve as well. I was not in the truck either of the times it died idling last night- throttle was closed... could have been IAC related too.
Click to expand...
I believe the TBI system relies on ignition signal to keep pulsing the injectors.
 
TJ1978 said:
Not to derail, but I can relate, somewhat. All I did was change my oil and the truck went wonky with noises it never made before.

Good luck
Click to expand...
this might be an unfair question, but you remembered to put the new oil back IN the engine before driving away and experiencing wonky??
 
Wes Harden said:
I have decided and should try to prove, that the woodruff key when #s 1 and 6 are at the top of the stroke, will be lined up with the center line of the drive side bank of cylinders.

can't see that unless you pull the crank bolt, or its a 283. It could be a useful indicator, or clue
Click to expand...
sooooooo... now might be a good time to ask- if this is a stupid question, then maybe one of the moderators can change the user name on the post to someone else???

anyway, whats the tube for??? nothing ive ever been concerned with it -figured it was for a different model of balancer, or something...

now that you have mentioned the whole "key slot points down center line of bank #1..."

both the L05s i have access to right now seem to back that up.
now, it also seems to be that the keyway might be pointing right through the little tube on the end of the timing tab. sooooooo whats up with that?

Screenshot now.jpg
 
scouthead said:
this might be an unfair question, but you remembered to put the new oil back IN the engine before driving away and experiencing wonky??
Click to expand...
Ha! Yes... I even changed to thicker oil after the clacking sound. So two oil changes...
 
I have always assumed that the tube was used as a jig for the factory to set timing, without physically holding a timing light. Don't know for sure though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom