Did you just say air bags? That is designed into my new truck design. Needs to do 80mph with a boat behind it. Then wheel moab and tow home.
CK5
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Ultimate 10 bolt axles
- Thread starter Csm Davis
- Start date
Yes I love air bag suspension! The ride is so nice and so easy to add load handling to! I think air bags and some of the air bump stops are going on everything I own.
Very seriously thankful not sarcastic. I plan on keeping my 6.2L diesel and know weight is the enemy of mileage and performance both of which I want to keep so I am looking for that razor's edge to build to. I have other trucks that can be built to crush cars and climb mountains. But this truck I want to drive up to the valet and it get parked up front next to the Ferraris on Friday night and take my girls trail riding on Saturday then a 400 mile trip on Sunday with no breakage, good maintenance availability, and good mileage.
This truck is a money pit it already has over 20k spent on it and is probably never going to be sold, I wanted to build something that nobody would want to spend the money to buy from me because everything I built for myself keeps getting bought out from under me.
Arise my dead thread! So I just read all the great post on here and wanted to clarify my wants and wishes for the axles. Thinking (yeah I know smells of burnt rubber) I want humvee wheels and tires, keep the 10 bolts, stuff d60 dual wheel front spindle ends on all 4 corners locking Yukon hubs, RCV front axles and custom cut moly rear axles with Eaton truetrac in both with 4.11 gears, TA Performance gear covers, lightest biggest brakes I can stuff in the wheels, and truss the heck out of them.
So what about the front knuckles and C's is there a good solid upgrade? Ball joints, kingpins? I am not going 14b/60 if I pull the 10 bolts I will go custom 9" on both. I will build these out of the truck, then swap out the stock ones and suspension all at once.
So what about the front knuckles and C's is there a good solid upgrade? Ball joints, kingpins? I am not going 14b/60 if I pull the 10 bolts I will go custom 9" on both. I will build these out of the truck, then swap out the stock ones and suspension all at once.
So I've been doing something similar, but on a YJ with a HP30 and D35. Goal is to keep the weight light without spending a fortune (because it's a YJ)
If you go back a page, I mentioned my experience with light weight on half ton stuff.
If I had to do it again now 20 years later, I'd pull the rear axle out of my GM K2xx truck. It's a 9.5" with a nice smooth case that you can grind on some more and bigly shafts but is still fairly light... and there are plenty of expensive performance parts for it including brakes. I have a spare one I got and it weighs the same as a 12 bolt with rear disc. But you get good factory parts with rear disc with easy parking brake use.
It'd be real easy to build a HP44 front with all the parts available now... for a K5.
I'm not sure what the infatuation with Ford 9" is these days... terribly inefficient design and a Hi9 is what... $4k now?
If you go back a page, I mentioned my experience with light weight on half ton stuff.
If I had to do it again now 20 years later, I'd pull the rear axle out of my GM K2xx truck. It's a 9.5" with a nice smooth case that you can grind on some more and bigly shafts but is still fairly light... and there are plenty of expensive performance parts for it including brakes. I have a spare one I got and it weighs the same as a 12 bolt with rear disc. But you get good factory parts with rear disc with easy parking brake use.
It'd be real easy to build a HP44 front with all the parts available now... for a K5.
I'm not sure what the infatuation with Ford 9" is these days... terribly inefficient design and a Hi9 is what... $4k now?
Rear alloy shafts...
dkdiesel.com
GM 8.5 Inch Axle Shaft 78-88 Truck 4x4 28 Spline 31-1/2 Inch 6 Lug Rear Nitro Gear and Axle
GM 8.5 Inch Axle Shaft 78-88 Truck 4x4 28 Spline 31-1/2 Inch 6 Lug Rear Nitro Gear and Axle
I used a 9.5 SF14B in my 3rd generation Blazer. Super easy swap and not much penalty weight or size wise. If you’re trying to save weight humvee wheels and tires are a terrible choice. Ran those on my 80 K5 and “lightweight, maintenance free, long range (400 mi) cruising” don’t fit these requirements.
What is a lighter double beadlock wheel? I plan on swapping the inner run flats out for the lighter plastic pipe ones, unless someone points me to a better setup. Also I have these already sitting here and they are a really bulletproof setup and street legal.
If need/want them there are aluminum double beadlocks out there that are not only lighter, but don’t have ridiculous amount of offset. Using them on 10B would be an outstanding way to negate the reasons you stated want to run the 10B. And (at least the last time I looked) you end up needing to use 16.5” tires. If you’re set on using them avoid the 8 bolt versions, but even the 12 bolt ones can be bent. They may be “bulletproof” (they aren’t) but they definitely are not rock proof. Also, don’t forget to replace the o-rings between the wheel halfs.
These are NOT the ones I was looking at buying 15-ish years ago, but these should give you some idea of options-
I’ll keep looking and see if I can find the ones I looked at. In the end I used 12B surplus humvee wheels on DRW D60 front and C&C D70 rear.
EDIT- Found them, they were Hutchinson’s. At the time they popped up occasionally on eBay coming off trucks from the ME. Probably too expensive to bother today. They are quality wheels though.
www.pirate4x4.com
I’ll keep looking and see if I can find the ones I looked at. In the end I used 12B surplus humvee wheels on DRW D60 front and C&C D70 rear.
EDIT- Found them, they were Hutchinson’s. At the time they popped up occasionally on eBay coming off trucks from the ME. Probably too expensive to bother today. They are quality wheels though.
Single (1) Hutchinson 16x8 border patrol beadlock wheel
Have (1) single Hutchinson GM 'border patrol' forged aluminum dual beadlock 16x8 with '0' offset wheel for sale. complete with hardware. has defect of slightly under 2" overall length rock or curb rash on outer rim lip edge less than 1/4" deep at the deepest part. not very bad at all really...
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Find a set of internal beadlocks and run modern tires and aluminum wheels, your wheel bearings and ball joints will thank you.
Heavy steel wheels and heavy tires, plus the added leverage of a dually offset will eat up ball joints and wheel bearings, just during street use.
Heavy steel wheels and heavy tires, plus the added leverage of a dually offset will eat up ball joints and wheel bearings, just during street use.
just my opinion you are asking a lot of 10 bolt stuff and then the mods your doing to 10 bolts is a waste of money .
do a 9.5 semi float rear if you MUST keep 6 lug . .
go 8 lug for bigger brakes / wheel bearings / and other stuff and be done with it . even with 95% street use the bigger brakes pay off in the end . . . i did a dana 44 8 lug for 1.5 years with 36" swampers and it was ok . . then i scored a k30 truck for parts and got the hydro boost and master with the 60 front and O.M.G the difference was huge and paid for its self in the safety factor alone .
i am under my 4th truck now with the same 60 axle and it still has not let me down . snow plow use to towing to recovery or daily driver . . .
not saying dana 44 or 10 bolt wont hold . . . but all the beef up time / money / labor to a stock 60 = way less b/s .
do a 9.5 semi float rear if you MUST keep 6 lug . .
go 8 lug for bigger brakes / wheel bearings / and other stuff and be done with it . even with 95% street use the bigger brakes pay off in the end . . . i did a dana 44 8 lug for 1.5 years with 36" swampers and it was ok . . then i scored a k30 truck for parts and got the hydro boost and master with the 60 front and O.M.G the difference was huge and paid for its self in the safety factor alone .
i am under my 4th truck now with the same 60 axle and it still has not let me down . snow plow use to towing to recovery or daily driver . . .
not saying dana 44 or 10 bolt wont hold . . . but all the beef up time / money / labor to a stock 60 = way less b/s .
Single (1) Hutchinson 16x8 border patrol beadlock wheel
Have (1) single Hutchinson GM 'border patrol' forged aluminum dual beadlock 16x8 with '0' offset wheel for sale. complete with hardware. has defect of slightly under 2" overall length rock or curb rash on outer rim lip edge less than 1/4" deep at the deepest part. not very bad at all really...
I love those border patrol wheels! I wanted a set for a long time but they are few and far between and high dollar when you can find them.
Think it's funny that almost all of the street legal double beadlocks are made by Hutchinson the maker of the Humvee wheels. Anyone know the weights for the steel vs aluminum wheels?These are NOT the ones I was looking at buying 15-ish years ago, but these should give you some idea of options-
I’ll keep looking and see if I can find the ones I looked at. In the end I used 12B surplus humvee wheels on DRW D60 front and C&C D70 rear.
EDIT- Found them, they were Hutchinson’s. At the time they popped up occasionally on eBay coming off trucks from the ME. Probably too expensive to bother today. They are quality wheels though.
Single (1) Hutchinson 16x8 border patrol beadlock wheel
Have (1) single Hutchinson GM 'border patrol' forged aluminum dual beadlock 16x8 with '0' offset wheel for sale. complete with hardware. has defect of slightly under 2" overall length rock or curb rash on outer rim lip edge less than 1/4" deep at the deepest part. not very bad at all really...
When I mounted them I had the weight of a bias 39” Swamper on a complete humvee wheel with rubber insert. Let me see if I can find it. But IIRC, the complete combo was just under 150 lbs each, 147 lbs per my bathroom scale comes to mind.
Any reason you want to run the double beadlock wheel in this application? Seems like a lot of weight and complexity for something you said wasn’t going to be your primary wheeler.
I just had a fun flashback of mounting them. That was a long day in the GA heat. I did six total, four 12 bolts on the truck, two 8 bolts as spares, and then the installation 4 rounds of 8 lug nuts. My torque wrench got a work out too, 96 nuts and studs. Lol.
Back in 2005 or so I mounted up a set of 36” Swamper TSL-SX’s on some recentered 8-bolt H1’s with a commercial grade cut to fit plastic pipe sections as the inserts in the Florida summertime heat and it just plain SUCKED !
I would not wish that on anyone to do now that I’m older …
You guys are wimps! BTW I have a full set of 24 bolt rims and tires, so there's that. Try 53" 16.00 x 20" on Hemet rims in South Mississippi heat! Around 800lbs each with runflats. Or 21x24's 1200lbs. So yeah I know heavy wheels and tires. I have probably removed and moved around 10,000 military 5 ton truck tires. So other than the steel vs aluminum is there any weight difference between the military MTR's and civilian ones? So how much weight per wheel am I going to save? 5lbs? Think I might keep the $3-4k and use the steel wheels. And also how much bigger brakes can I fit by going 17" vs 16.5? 20" I could see getting much bigger brakes on.
Any outdoor activity in the Florida heat sucks.
I did landscaping, construction, and ditch digging there when I left the military.
Now I can't tolerate heat at all. I do what I can when I can.
The answer is about 1/2" radius. Many are surprised to hear that the diameter of a 16.5 wheel is 16". Why are the tires marked "not for use on 16" wheels"? Because they fit...sort of.
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It’s that 45* rim lip angle on the 16.5’s.
