You can up the strength with CTM joints in the shafts.
CK5
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Ultimate 10 bolt axles
- Thread starter Csm Davis
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Yet to be determined, but I had confidence in them. They are also no longer manufactured
I think at the price they ask for these and chromos, I’d probably start looking at a D60
Ive seen the Spicers spit out all the needle bearings and not break, also seen the shafts break and the joint live
Those CTM joints look BEEF. i may just get those.
as far as Dana 60s go, here in my area, they START at $2500. That would be for usually a pretty beat one. I would have to stick gears in it/locker plus all the other stuff would need to be cleaned /rebuilt. I would be looking at around $3500-4000 for a useable 60. I could spend $1500 on RCVs and stuff a locker in it for $500. And everything else in my 44 is ready to go. I get the investment is worth it, but there is other things on the truck that could use that $2000....
The choices are hard!
as far as Dana 60s go, here in my area, they START at $2500. That would be for usually a pretty beat one. I would have to stick gears in it/locker plus all the other stuff would need to be cleaned /rebuilt. I would be looking at around $3500-4000 for a useable 60. I could spend $1500 on RCVs and stuff a locker in it for $500. And everything else in my 44 is ready to go. I get the investment is worth it, but there is other things on the truck that could use that $2000....
The choices are hard!
Yep, and a 60 is not a guarantee either. Guys break those on a TBI and 35s. I’d trust the Spicers, just rotate then out if you wheel hard all year. Don’t drive like a dill hole, it helps. Don’t back up with the wheels turned all the way
If you have a selectable front, unlock it before you back up
If you have a selectable front, unlock it before you back up
I have a friend running a tj, d44 with rcvs turning 38s. Never broke one. But the rig is lighter.
I am getting them, I am just waiting for the money to come.
I have driven my k5 with stock axles and while I didn't break, I could feel the binding and the wobble when I was turned a little bit and then I had the chance to drive a backhoe 4x4 and they have cv axles and they are turned all the way, pedal to the metal, not a sound or movement, just smooth driving through everything.
So I am sold.
And as you noted @ $1500 they are reasonable enough compared to a d60.
Now the d60 rcp shafts are insanely expensive @ $2650
Why is that? Backing with the wheels turned all the way?
A friend of mine builds axles for a living. He has maintained for years that 2/3 axles break when backing
I believe some of it is stress unloading, like @ZooMad75 mentioned. Some may be over extension or pinch stress.
But 2 of 3 broken axles i asked about at Blazerbash happened while they were backing
Good thing I so not use reverse.
Or English
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8 lug 10 bolt front on 37's welded. I break a lot of hubs and I think I am on 3 shafts broken in 12 years. But I have zero horsepower well close.
I pop the front end out with the triple stick and doubler often and I normally only have the driver's side hub locked since it has the longer shaft. Sounds like wise advise to unlock either the front axle or hubs or both when backing. I have broken both stock shafts, warn, and yukon I believe was the last one. But then I am kinda chunky 6200 lbs.
I do have room in a garage if someone has a 60 with 4.10's that is in their way.
I pop the front end out with the triple stick and doubler often and I normally only have the driver's side hub locked since it has the longer shaft. Sounds like wise advise to unlock either the front axle or hubs or both when backing. I have broken both stock shafts, warn, and yukon I believe was the last one. But then I am kinda chunky 6200 lbs.
I do have room in a garage if someone has a 60 with 4.10's that is in their way.
Are you installing that the same time as the new cross member?
also the u-joint is weakest working at angles . so wheels turned = faster to break a joint / pop a cap / eat a yoke end on the shaft .
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Probably. Still need to get some 2nd gen parts to make the big block crossmember work for the small block. I need to call ORD and get the info on what I need. Also since I currently have 4 inches of snow and it's snowing hard it may be June.
I think you need the wedge piece of the motor mount off of a square body, but not positive
I have a TBI 454 with everything sitting in my shop. You need it.
ORD just posted that very thing on their Instagram the other day. All you need to make the ORD crossmember work on a 67-72 is the wedges off of a 73-87 frame.
Watch from my video on flat iron I had one of my cameras mounted on top of the winch. You can see me barely drop the right front into a small hole. Forward motion stops and I begin to back up slightly. Then you hear it pop. The video should start at 35.01 just before that sequence starts.
Okay so I didn't put tires and power or driving style in on purpose so many of you guys would scream D60! just like several already have. I have D60, 14bolt, 9 inch and even 5 ton axles sitting here ready to be used. But I think that a lightweight axle that is built right will out live a stock D60 and give better overall performance.
So lets talk center sections is a high pinion 44 center that much than the 8.5 10 bolt? Or 9 inch? Or high 9?
Also let's not forget the rear axle 8.5 10 bolt, make it full float? 9 inch? New half ton axle with disk brakes? Wanting to stay light and higher center so half ton size.
So lets talk center sections is a high pinion 44 center that much than the 8.5 10 bolt? Or 9 inch? Or high 9?
Also let's not forget the rear axle 8.5 10 bolt, make it full float? 9 inch? New half ton axle with disk brakes? Wanting to stay light and higher center so half ton size.
