Ultimate 10 bolt axles

[Csm Davis]

Any reason you want to run the double beadlock wheel in this application? Seems like a lot of weight and complexity for something you said wasn’t going to be your primary wheeler.

Yes because the only bad wreck in an automobile I have been in was because a tire came off the rim. Double beadlocks prevent this. This not for rocks, think more high speed like pre-runner so yes I want the lightweight setup within reason. I also would like to keep parts to mostly COTS and what I have already. So I love the discussion keep trying to shoot holes in my ideas! I might entertain a 20" double beadlock as that would make room for big brakes but it is pushing budget and COTS.

 

[bigjbear]

In that case I’d be looking into the internal style like @83ChevyK5Blazer mentioned. Use them with some 17” forged aluminum wheels, Toyota TRD take offs if you’re looking for a good deal, and you can run big brakes. If I was starting a build like you are describing I’d go with a beefed 10B front, either a SF14B or D60FF rear, 17” aluminum wheels and 37” radial tires.

 

[bigjbear]

Oh and aircraft wheels, tires, and brakes, so I get the big tire thing. But when I’m not getting paid to do it it just feels worse.

I get the desire to use the humvee wheels, I just believe that there are better options for the requirements that you have listed. If it was for a low speed, dedicated wheeling rig I’d be backing you up all the way.

 

[Stephen]

The recipe for this was written quite a while back and hasn't changed much. Truss the housing, run Reid knuckles, RCV shafts, Yukon hubs and an ARB locker. ARB because it gives you a really strong open carrier and if you want the locker, you have one. D44 or 10b base axle doesn't really matter. Drill hubs and rotors for bigger wheel studs and/or swap to 8 lug. Brake options are limited with 6 lug so 8 lug helps there too.

9.5 semi float rear is good, or anything else you want to bolt in there.

I think you're overthinking the wheel thing. Air pressure keeps tires on wheels so just keep air in them. Running a wheel with some extra bead retention like the Method may be in order but if you want the front end to last, keeping it all as light as possible is important and double beadlocks are not that. Neither are 20s. Even a conventional single beadlock is a heavy wheel but may be worth it if you're going to beat the wheels.

All of this has been proven in the desert for decades and works well.

A tire liner type beadlock system (I don't even know what's around anymore) works well for locking beads and provides some measure of "run flat" but they don't beef up the wheel. A conventional outer beadlock does beef up the wheel so once again, if you're going to beat it hard offroad, a conventional beadlock wheel may be in order.