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Unbreakable drivetrain?

So I hate to be a newb, but the 1410s would go on the pinion of the axles? and is 1410, 1310, etc just a size measurement? and I imagine ill have to upgrade driveshaft yokes as well?

Yes you can get a conversion joint but that would defeat the purpose of the beefier ujoint. 1410's are big, 1450's are soft ball size.
 
you do need to keep some weak link in the mix... 1410 on both ends is more than adequate imo, and starts to defer that weak link to other parts of the drivetrain...

if your going 1350, might as well go 1410 and get the better operating angle imo...
 
if your going 1350, might as well go 1410 and get the better operating angle imo...

That is, if you're starting with all new stuff. Many 1 ton axles use 1350 stuff already and 1350 driveshafts are easy to find in junkyards. 1410 stuff is really hard to find, unless you're buying new.

Also, for a rear shaft anyway, 1350's should provide plenty of angle.
 
I dont believe in the weak link concept... I think you should try and make everything as strong as possible. Right now my weak link is the engine or transmission.
gabe
 
the truth of the matter is. you need planetary diffs. if you want the rest of your driveline to live forever. the outboard planetary gearset removes virtually all the strain from the driveline and puts it directly on the planetary hub. just a feature of the design.
 
so its a transfer case and/or transmission gearset??? is he talkin bout changin the gear reduction in either of those???
 
no, planetary diffs have a gearset outboard of the hub.

like these, smallish 2ton-ish Carreros. integral hydraulic steering cylinder.

notice the triangle pattern on the outside of the hub. the planet pinions ride behind each of those. directly divides the torque load by the number of pinions in the gearset.
PlanetaryCarrero1.jpg

PlanetaryCarrero2.jpg

Planetarycarrero3.png
 
so its a transfer case and/or transmission gearset??? is he talkin bout changin the gear reduction in either of those???

A planetary gear set is another way of achieving gear reduction. As I said, its light, compact and strong.

There are several companies that made axle with very low final drive ratios (say, 20:1). Generally they have a regular ring and pinion (to turn the power 90 degrees along with a regular gear ratio, say 4:1) and then they have a planetary gear set in the hub with another, say 5:1 reduction.


Having the gear reduction further down in the drivetrain (i.e. at the hubs, like planetary axles do) reduces the stress on everything upstream.
 
I dont believe in the weak link concept...
gabe

I didn't phrase that quite right... what I meant to say is, that point will always be there.. your just moving it around from component to component as you upgrade things... I'm all about overkill across the board...
 
Ok, good... I have had a few guys try and tell me that you should design in a weak point that is easy to fix. A fuse as it were. I cant stand the idea of this... I upgrade everything that I break. The last thing that I broke repeatedly was the warn 35 spline premium hubs... So I went to drive flanges.
 
im with you boys on the weak link idea.

dont really like it on my rig but i can see the benefit for some poeple.

im breakin axle shafts on my rockwells, so im pretty much screwed less i wanna drop 2000 on ouversons. :doah:

best advice that im able to give the guy that started this thread is to design your rig around your driving style and mechanical abilities. if it aint broke dont fix it. and as far as gettn out of a jam, havin the right tools and equipment on board make all the difference, especially if your gnna be whellin alone (which is not a great idea in the first place IMO).

good luck brotha!
 
410 stuff is really hard to find, unless you're buying new.

for once i dissagree with you chris..i can find 1410 stuff all day...1 ton dodges with cummins run 1410 rears...also 2 and half tons run 1410s...

on a side note im making a square front and im thinking about using the sqare flange that comes on rockwell driveshafts on the ends..anyone see a problem with this?
 
for once i dissagree with you chris..i can find 1410 stuff all day...1 ton dodges with cummins run 1410 rears...also 2 and half tons run 1410s...

Cool, didn't know that :thumb:

on a side note im making a square front and im thinking about using the sqare flange that comes on rockwell driveshafts on the ends..anyone see a problem with this?

Depends on what bolt pattern and what pilot ID the flanges use, also, can you find flanges for your transfer case that will match up to the rockwell flanges.
 
38s and Rockwells... hope you wouldnt plan on anything but rock crawling, because you wouldnt be able to get enough wheel speed to clean out the tires in the mud.

Planataries... gotta really watch final ratio here too. Might end up with what would essentially be 10:1 difs.
 
38s and rockwells will give you the ground clearance of a honda. planetaries, use HI range and start grabbing gears.
 
kinda what i was thinkin too, i.e. rockwells n hummers???:crazy:

Actually neither of those have planetaries at the hubs. The hummer has a portal hub which lowers the gear ratio at the hub, just not with a planetary gearset. With a planetary, the input and output shafts are on the same axis. With portal axles, the output is lower than the input. Rocks don't have any gear reduction at the hub.

From what I have heard rocks aren't that much stronger than a D60 or 14B unless the shafts are upgraded. Plus with Rocks you need to run huge lift to get the top loader to clear the oil pan.

I think the OP's best bet is D60/14B.
 
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