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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance
- Thread starter Wes Harden
- Start date
in the baffle well....hmmm worth looking into
Unfortunately they havent come down in price. The small ones are definitely less, but if I were to use one, I think I'd prefer no "baffle" and a large mat. But at ~$500, unless I absolutely had to do something to get as much fuel as possible, it'd be hard to stomach.
Poor 77 has been neglected since Moab. I have been tiring to get my shop better organized, not a thrilling task. But I have been finding goodies and stuff I knew I had saved for different projects.
The Holley exhaust manifolds I purchase a while ago. I wasn't thrilled with the 2 bolt flat flange Holley provided, so I hadn't moved on the project.
Came up with an alternative, might be touch more restrictive, but I this way much better. Found the flange gasket in my junk pile, need to id it so I can get another and for future needs.
this way will allow for some give and take when twisting on the trails.
The Holley exhaust manifolds I purchase a while ago. I wasn't thrilled with the 2 bolt flat flange Holley provided, so I hadn't moved on the project.
Came up with an alternative, might be touch more restrictive, but I this way much better. Found the flange gasket in my junk pile, need to id it so I can get another and for future needs.this way will allow for some give and take when twisting on the trails.
The exhaust manifolds on my son's 72 Skylark are just 2 bolts. It kinda makes it easier to hook up the exhaust, but I wondered if it made the sealing not quite as good.
If they use a flat gasket is a weak point. If doughnut then it will be fine as long as nut don't back off
Or put a solid 2 bolt flange and weld in a flex section after.
I may still do a flex, connecting the right to the left. Still gonna run single driver side exhaust. crossing behind the t case.
Have had the burb on the rack for a couple weeks drained the oil, dropped the stater, the bell housing braces, and oil cooler adapter. Changing the leaking oil cooler hoses from Evil Energy -10 an to Fragola -8 an. Two reasons for this switch the Evil Energy has leaked 3 times, and -10 is to tight at the adapter to use wrenches.
After getting it all apart I found that ordered -8 an male x 1/2 npt, what i need is -8 an x 3/8 npt for the adapter. So I order them, and left for Utah to do some work at my dads, stuff he can't do any more.
Get home parts show up, but I can't seem to get out in the shop, just a horrible funk. Mostly I can't decide if I want to tear it down to the timing chain and advance the cam 2° or not. I did manage to get out there today for 3 hours, made 1.5 hoses. i bought 4 fittings for the oil cooler side 2 45° 1 60° and 1 30°
Used the 30° but I need a 90° for the other hose. Ordered that today.
Decided I am not doing the cam advance. Awhile back while cylinder head window shopping, and figuring out my current compression, I needed to figure what heads I am actually using. Some may remember I will bash 882 castings any time people bring them up. Even 31 years ago when I built this engine, I wouldn't have used 882. Well it seem I have 624's on this engine about the same as 882's. 462624 heads came on 350 are light casting 76cc 194/202 150/160 valves and crack prone. I know theses are not 202-160's. Now I have had pinging like noise in this engine for years. Heard from the exhaust, I can't hear it in the engine bay. The upper rad hose gets very hard, but doesn't over heat, or have water in oil or oil in rad. I am going to block check it as soon as I have the oil system whole. It is possible the exhaust seat or seats have cracks. If the block check check is positive for exhaust gas in the cooling system. I'll have to figure my options. Have a fresh 350 with 30 over dish pistons. Cam is more of hot street than low grunt 4x4. Heads on that one while fresh are 305 heads to bump up compression.
New heads on current block in the truck. I have some 3932441, 327-350 heavy casting open chamber 76cc, will need every thing, exhaust seats guides, valves and springs. I could look for some Vortec heads, but I would need to find an intake for those as well. Suck it up and get some after market aluminum.
July 1st ramblings above.
Yesterday I found a folding engine hoist on Farce book a few block from my place went an looked at it picked it up for $180. I took my 35 year old non folding hoist to my bother's house last year, to get it out of my way. sent the afternoon tuning up the beat casters and replacing bolts Added tub spacer in the mast mount area, as the square tube was being crushed. Not sure I'll keep it seem a bit lite weight. The main boom seems short. Supposedly a 2 ton capacity.
No work on the 77, we will see what today brings.
After getting it all apart I found that ordered -8 an male x 1/2 npt, what i need is -8 an x 3/8 npt for the adapter. So I order them, and left for Utah to do some work at my dads, stuff he can't do any more.
Get home parts show up, but I can't seem to get out in the shop, just a horrible funk. Mostly I can't decide if I want to tear it down to the timing chain and advance the cam 2° or not. I did manage to get out there today for 3 hours, made 1.5 hoses. i bought 4 fittings for the oil cooler side 2 45° 1 60° and 1 30°
Used the 30° but I need a 90° for the other hose. Ordered that today.
Decided I am not doing the cam advance. Awhile back while cylinder head window shopping, and figuring out my current compression, I needed to figure what heads I am actually using. Some may remember I will bash 882 castings any time people bring them up. Even 31 years ago when I built this engine, I wouldn't have used 882. Well it seem I have 624's on this engine about the same as 882's. 462624 heads came on 350 are light casting 76cc 194/202 150/160 valves and crack prone. I know theses are not 202-160's. Now I have had pinging like noise in this engine for years. Heard from the exhaust, I can't hear it in the engine bay. The upper rad hose gets very hard, but doesn't over heat, or have water in oil or oil in rad. I am going to block check it as soon as I have the oil system whole. It is possible the exhaust seat or seats have cracks. If the block check check is positive for exhaust gas in the cooling system. I'll have to figure my options. Have a fresh 350 with 30 over dish pistons. Cam is more of hot street than low grunt 4x4. Heads on that one while fresh are 305 heads to bump up compression.
New heads on current block in the truck. I have some 3932441, 327-350 heavy casting open chamber 76cc, will need every thing, exhaust seats guides, valves and springs. I could look for some Vortec heads, but I would need to find an intake for those as well. Suck it up and get some after market aluminum.
July 1st ramblings above.
Yesterday I found a folding engine hoist on Farce book a few block from my place went an looked at it picked it up for $180. I took my 35 year old non folding hoist to my bother's house last year, to get it out of my way. sent the afternoon tuning up the beat casters and replacing bolts Added tub spacer in the mast mount area, as the square tube was being crushed. Not sure I'll keep it seem a bit lite weight. The main boom seems short. Supposedly a 2 ton capacity.
No work on the 77, we will see what today brings.
Those unmotivated "funk" days can be a challenge. I figure getting anything accomplished, no matter how small, is a step in the right direction.
Sorry if it was covered in the previous 39 pages, are the hoses you are making for a factory oil cooler or aftermarket?
I've got a factory oil cooler that has the original braided stainless lines. I dread the day those fail. But so far so good, have probably outlived every rubber version installed on the square bodies lol.
I've got a factory oil cooler that has the original braided stainless lines. I dread the day those fail. But so far so good, have probably outlived every rubber version installed on the square bodies lol.
Well, I am using a GM 90's vintage big block oil cooler adapter, and a Derale air to fluid cooler.
Went with -10 hose cause I like oil flow. The fittings worked well when I had the Derale 180° temp opening adapter. I blamed the adapter for my oil leak, was probably the Evil energy fittings. I switch the GM adapter and the -10 fitting were very close together.
So close I couldn't get a back up wrench on the top line when tightening the line.
The -8 I am using now have plenty of room, and @1/2" I'd should flow well enough. Plus iirc that is about the same as GM used.
Never had an oil temp guage for engine, so not sure how necessary an external oil cooler is, or even how effective. Temp gauge on my list
Went with -10 hose cause I like oil flow. The fittings worked well when I had the Derale 180° temp opening adapter. I blamed the adapter for my oil leak, was probably the Evil energy fittings. I switch the GM adapter and the -10 fitting were very close together.
So close I couldn't get a back up wrench on the top line when tightening the line.
The -8 I am using now have plenty of room, and @1/2" I'd should flow well enough. Plus iirc that is about the same as GM used.
Never had an oil temp guage for engine, so not sure how necessary an external oil cooler is, or even how effective. Temp gauge on my list
I ran a temp gauge in the pan for awhile (rare moment of clarity, welded a bung in before I put the pan on the new motor) and honestly even in cold weather (~30's) the temp climbed pretty quick and got pretty warm.
Probably more info than you need, but here's what my oil temp looked like after a pass run.
ck5.com
Id like to run without the cooler too, to see what difference, if any, it makes. But that's pretty hard to do and get a fair comparison. Every run something is different. Nothing to compare to either, I would hope it wasn't just GM increasing profit margin.
As I recall the oil temp holds steady at near coolant temps on flat ground cruise at moderate speeds (60), but definitely jumped up with a significant load. Add another 50* of ambient air temp and I'd bet you'd have some pretty high oil temps. Manual trans was about the same. Except the engine oil temp drops pretty quickly as load decreases, whereas the fluid in the 465 never really lost any heat once load decreased. Guess cast iron doesn't shed heat very well. lol
Probably more info than you need, but here's what my oil temp looked like after a pass run.
K10 350 Oil Pan replacement, what fits?
I am thinking about replacing the oil pan on my '73 K10. I'm building a Wilderness camper rig, so I need good reliability and bulletproof... Itsa stock 4 bolt 350 with front sump, drivers side dipstick. The original is kinda scuzzy, and stock tin unit. Ive looked at these cast aluminum ones...
ck5.com
Id like to run without the cooler too, to see what difference, if any, it makes. But that's pretty hard to do and get a fair comparison. Every run something is different. Nothing to compare to either, I would hope it wasn't just GM increasing profit margin.
As I recall the oil temp holds steady at near coolant temps on flat ground cruise at moderate speeds (60), but definitely jumped up with a significant load. Add another 50* of ambient air temp and I'd bet you'd have some pretty high oil temps. Manual trans was about the same. Except the engine oil temp drops pretty quickly as load decreases, whereas the fluid in the 465 never really lost any heat once load decreased. Guess cast iron doesn't shed heat very well. lol
I reread that post linked, and I am guessing that your oil cooler is in the radiator, which would explain the oil temp being the same as coolant temp. The oil cooler is on the hot side of the radiator.
Mine is completely external, if any I worry about to cold. Now I am thinking I need an oil temp gauge. I have a trans gauge, which is in a horrible spot for me to read, and no room for another gauge. Current idea get a sender for the current gauge put in the oil system, and toggle switch the two senders to 1 gauge.
Would like to put the sender (Autometer 2258) in this plugged hole on the adapter. Am not sure this a good spot for a temp sender, right about oil pressure by pass.
Thoughts?
Mine is completely external, if any I worry about to cold. Now I am thinking I need an oil temp gauge. I have a trans gauge, which is in a horrible spot for me to read, and no room for another gauge. Current idea get a sender for the current gauge put in the oil system, and toggle switch the two senders to 1 gauge.
Would like to put the sender (Autometer 2258) in this plugged hole on the adapter. Am not sure this a good spot for a temp sender, right about oil pressure by pass.
Thoughts?
Sorry if it wasn't clear. Mines an external GM air cooled, mounted in the factory location forward of the radiator. I think testing the temps of a combined radiator oil cooler would be interesting but that would be a lot of work and parts.
Can you just tap into the plug above the oil filter adapter, assuming you have one there? I'm sure the adapter bypass would be fine, it falls in line with my "relative" thought process, that it doesn't really matter what is read on the gauge (within reason) it's just when the reading deviates from what is normal that there is concern.
I guess standard caution would apply, the adapter is going to be a lot more fragile than the block for tightening a fitting up, telling you something you already know lol. I'd expect even with a short nipple heat form the oil would effectively transfer to the temp sender if you decided to use the block location.
Can you just tap into the plug above the oil filter adapter, assuming you have one there? I'm sure the adapter bypass would be fine, it falls in line with my "relative" thought process, that it doesn't really matter what is read on the gauge (within reason) it's just when the reading deviates from what is normal that there is concern.
I guess standard caution would apply, the adapter is going to be a lot more fragile than the block for tightening a fitting up, telling you something you already know lol. I'd expect even with a short nipple heat form the oil would effectively transfer to the temp sender if you decided to use the block location.
What are your concerns?
That there may be no flow there unless the relief is open.
It probably would be better to put where there's flow. Lack of flow might make it slow to reflect temperature changes. I also think it would tend to be hotter.
I'm sure I read somewhere that the bypass is almost always open to a degree.
It's just a flat disk with spring pressure right? In the above pic at about 10 o'clock? It sure opens with little finger pressure. And since it's spring pressure, shouldn't those be replaced instead of reused for forty years?
Anyway, I agree, somewhere else would most likely expose the sender to better flow. But I am curious how much is actually bypassed, and what one SHOULD do about the ancient bypass we are all running.
this adapter is probably only 25ish years old, I believe it came off a gmt400. Yeah I could maybe fish the spring out of the 3/8" npt plugged hole and stretch it, reinstall.
