Best of luck to you. When I really started digging into them for my car, is also about when I converted the truck to FI. Once I made that conversion I realized my wall of Q-jets were not going to be of any use to me lol.
CK5
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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance
- Thread starter Wes Harden
- Start date
Thanks
Yes I am starting to get an 8.1 itch. Trying hard not to scratch it.
Yes I am starting to get an 8.1 itch. Trying hard not to scratch it.
Update:
Well this morning I wanted to see if I could get to the bottom of my uphill run like crap problem. Checked for vacuum, leaks all good. Even the intake is tight external and internal.
Next I installed a vacuum gauge, adjusted idle air\fuel screws, I have a solid 18" of mercury at 825 rpm, 20" at 2k rpm. So on to timing I had ported vacuum at the vac advance today, same as last drive with issue, timing was 1 or 2 degrees retarded. I advance the base timing to 15 degrees advanced, with ported vac 30 degree max no vacuum advance, 35 degrees with vacuum advance.
Had a hard time locking down the distributor. Distributor wench kept pushing the vac can, is my old point distributor wrench. Any way locked it down and went for a drive. Cruised flat and level 70 mph no problem, hit the bottom of west bound side of hill that I had the problem last Sunday, good I had to slow down from 65, I was in slow lane, moved left and truck accelerated slowly back to 60 mph engine ran smooth, shifted on it's own to 3rd pulled ok. Turn around east side of the hill. Dead stop at bottom of on ramp and hill, pulled well if slowly to 60 mph mostly in 3rd the whole way. This is the hill I barley made it over at 40 mph with engine bucking and surging Last Sunday.
So it seems the distributor was moving, explaining why I could drive over Cajon pass 1 time and have issue the next. The distributor had been snug I could move it, but it wasn't easy.
So I can't tighten the distributor down with my wrench it must be a tooth off, plus I don't like the where the vac can and the cap wiring box are clocked. Being anal retentive the way I am I set up #1 TDC pop the cap find a crack at the base of the cap, not an issue now but will be. So I move the distributor 1 tooth clock wise. Rotor is point straight forward. Put a new cap and set timing, 10 degrees base, ported vacuum, now goes to 45 degrees max timing, wtf. Try manifold vacuum. Base timing 0, 15 degrees with vacuum, 40 degrees total. Haven't driven since the re-clocking the distributor. Probably going to move dist back counter clockwise a tooth. Still don't like the finial position of cap and vac can.
So now I am looking at why it has no power up hill. So 1st thing check for wide open throttle. Nope not even close. disconnect the TV cable, try again wide open throttle. Adjust TV cable per GM manual, I get WOT or much closer, but the TV cable has 1/2" or more slack at idle. Install 300 psi test gauge in test port on trans, 65psi at idle, seems low to me, pull on cable moves at least 1/2" before pressure starts to climb. Now I know the the TV cable is supposed to be tight enough that the TV plunger is just slightly loaded. I am at a loss no matter what I try I can not get WOT and still have the plunger slightly loaded. I have an adapter linkage bolted to my carb, that is supposed to correct the radius for Qjet and 700r4 TV cable. Some web hunting regarding TV cables, I may have to change the plunger spring in the valve body. Or?
bad dist clocking
psi at idle no preload on Plunger
Well this morning I wanted to see if I could get to the bottom of my uphill run like crap problem. Checked for vacuum, leaks all good. Even the intake is tight external and internal.
Next I installed a vacuum gauge, adjusted idle air\fuel screws, I have a solid 18" of mercury at 825 rpm, 20" at 2k rpm. So on to timing I had ported vacuum at the vac advance today, same as last drive with issue, timing was 1 or 2 degrees retarded. I advance the base timing to 15 degrees advanced, with ported vac 30 degree max no vacuum advance, 35 degrees with vacuum advance.
Had a hard time locking down the distributor. Distributor wench kept pushing the vac can, is my old point distributor wrench. Any way locked it down and went for a drive. Cruised flat and level 70 mph no problem, hit the bottom of west bound side of hill that I had the problem last Sunday, good I had to slow down from 65, I was in slow lane, moved left and truck accelerated slowly back to 60 mph engine ran smooth, shifted on it's own to 3rd pulled ok. Turn around east side of the hill. Dead stop at bottom of on ramp and hill, pulled well if slowly to 60 mph mostly in 3rd the whole way. This is the hill I barley made it over at 40 mph with engine bucking and surging Last Sunday.
So it seems the distributor was moving, explaining why I could drive over Cajon pass 1 time and have issue the next. The distributor had been snug I could move it, but it wasn't easy.
So I can't tighten the distributor down with my wrench it must be a tooth off, plus I don't like the where the vac can and the cap wiring box are clocked. Being anal retentive the way I am I set up #1 TDC pop the cap find a crack at the base of the cap, not an issue now but will be. So I move the distributor 1 tooth clock wise. Rotor is point straight forward. Put a new cap and set timing, 10 degrees base, ported vacuum, now goes to 45 degrees max timing, wtf. Try manifold vacuum. Base timing 0, 15 degrees with vacuum, 40 degrees total. Haven't driven since the re-clocking the distributor. Probably going to move dist back counter clockwise a tooth. Still don't like the finial position of cap and vac can.
So now I am looking at why it has no power up hill. So 1st thing check for wide open throttle. Nope not even close. disconnect the TV cable, try again wide open throttle. Adjust TV cable per GM manual, I get WOT or much closer, but the TV cable has 1/2" or more slack at idle. Install 300 psi test gauge in test port on trans, 65psi at idle, seems low to me, pull on cable moves at least 1/2" before pressure starts to climb. Now I know the the TV cable is supposed to be tight enough that the TV plunger is just slightly loaded. I am at a loss no matter what I try I can not get WOT and still have the plunger slightly loaded. I have an adapter linkage bolted to my carb, that is supposed to correct the radius for Qjet and 700r4 TV cable. Some web hunting regarding TV cables, I may have to change the plunger spring in the valve body. Or?
bad dist clocking
psi at idle no preload on Plunger
urbex
1/2 ton status
I fixed my 700r4 issues by going to a 4L80E 
I had a TCI throttle/TV cable bracket on my Edelbrock with the geometry corrector, but it was FAR from a bolt on and go deal. I had to fiddle with that thing a ton to get it right. I wonder if your TV cable bracket at the carb isn't set for the correct distance from the throttle arm? The TCI one has a pretty wide adjustment range for this.
I had a TCI throttle/TV cable bracket on my Edelbrock with the geometry corrector, but it was FAR from a bolt on and go deal. I had to fiddle with that thing a ton to get it right. I wonder if your TV cable bracket at the carb isn't set for the correct distance from the throttle arm? The TCI one has a pretty wide adjustment range for this.
@urbex I actual used the turbo 350 kick down bracket at #7 intake runner with a generic cable. After moving the cable stop around so many times, the cable was chewed and getting stuck on the linkage slider. I got an 89 caprice TV cable and the TCI carb bracket. Plus 1 of these Sonnax AS101K Throttle Valve Cable Corrector. I can now get full throttle with current set up. I just need to do some more testing.
I drove over I15 NB Cajon pass today. Cruising 70 from 210 as I got to Summit off ramp started to stumble surge and lose power, moving to right I slowed down to 45 50. Found as spot at 50ish in 3rd at 2500 where truck would run, got off at Glenn Helen, drove the back way to Apple Valley. Only began to act up on 138 slight grade in 4th @ 55mph 1600ish rpms.
Got to AV decided I wanted a cup of coffee, stopped got coffee. Now no crank just a click. lock my 2 Batteries together, no joy. I am hoping is heat soak, been 40 minutes since stopped thou
Got to AV decided I wanted a cup of coffee, stopped got coffee. Now no crank just a click. lock my 2 Batteries together, no joy. I am hoping is heat soak, been 40 minutes since stopped thou
Jump started from another truck, after an hour sitting started right up.
My aux bat doesn't have heavy guage wiring, prob the reason it didn't help.
Got to my bro's place loaded up trailer and buggy. Hit the road to El Mirage. Ran good for 15 mins, then started same $#@t again. I was trying to find a nice rpm throttle angle, when is stalled. Hit the key, no crank. Pull off the road. use real jumper cables to connect 5he aux with main battery, no joy.
Crawl under starter is warm to touch, solenoid was hot. Jumped at starter, with pocket screw driver, starts.
Hit the road again. Runs good for 10 mins, then stumble surge generally no power. Limp on for 2 3 minutes, no reason runs good for 10 mins. It is now happening on level ground, trailer maybe? On the dry lake it stalled, I rolled to 1/4 mile of my brothers camp. Hit the key and it cranked, and started.
My aux bat doesn't have heavy guage wiring, prob the reason it didn't help.
Got to my bro's place loaded up trailer and buggy. Hit the road to El Mirage. Ran good for 15 mins, then started same $#@t again. I was trying to find a nice rpm throttle angle, when is stalled. Hit the key, no crank. Pull off the road. use real jumper cables to connect 5he aux with main battery, no joy.
Crawl under starter is warm to touch, solenoid was hot. Jumped at starter, with pocket screw driver, starts.
Hit the road again. Runs good for 10 mins, then stumble surge generally no power. Limp on for 2 3 minutes, no reason runs good for 10 mins. It is now happening on level ground, trailer maybe? On the dry lake it stalled, I rolled to 1/4 mile of my brothers camp. Hit the key and it cranked, and started.
Next time it happens, I'd check for 12V on any wire in the ignition circuit, with the key in run (distributor, purple wire at starter when key is held in start position, etc). Solenoid/starter operation should have nothing to do with it stalling, since the battery is "connected" to the fuse panel via the lug on the solenoid. Since it won't start, and the batteries are obviously good, something is preventing the solenoid from operating properly. I'm betting the starter not working is a clue, not the cause.
Wondering if there is an issue with the ignition switch or ignition fusible link.
Wondering if there is an issue with the ignition switch or ignition fusible link.
Yeah is 2 sperate issue. Have had the driveability issue off an on since December, I don't drive it much. So the no crank is something new. I had in mind to do a remote solenoid start circuit, guess it got moved up priority list.
Have a new complete ac Delco distributor ordered. I think maybe the module or pickup coil is breaking down under high speed moderate load. Seems now more frequent and cyclical.
Have a new complete ac Delco distributor ordered. I think maybe the module or pickup coil is breaking down under high speed moderate load. Seems now more frequent and cyclical.
Last edited:
Fuel pressure when this is happening?
Unknown, happened on way back to AV from El Mirage, stalled and no crank from key, pocket screw driver saves the day. Last little hill ran like crap, give it gas boggs stumble coughs, make the last turn down hill runs great. Now I am wondering if vapor lock. Exhust runs down driver side so only right side manifold and collector on right. Supposed to drive 5his beast to Havasu on the 12th gotta get this crap figured out.
What's your voltage readings? Wonder if maybe there's some kind of electrical problem - maybe a drain that's just weakening the ignition.
Need fuel pressure gauge.
Need fuel pressure gauge.
The guage in dash reads a little over 13volts while drivability issue is happening. What it is at coil I am going to need to test.
I did switch the Accel distributor, for a brand new AC Delco last night.
9* base timing 42* total, on ported vac. No test drive yet.
I did switch the Accel distributor, for a brand new AC Delco last night.
9* base timing 42* total, on ported vac. No test drive yet.
Added an Edlebrock electric fuel pump, have the physical install done.
Electrical tomorrow, along with updating crank circuit.
The mechanical pump is staying, I ran the truck after electric pump plumbing completed. Gas was drawn thru the electric by the mechanical. It only idled till choke kicked off.
Gas filter seems low.
Also checked that my vented Gas cap was venting, it is.
Electrical tomorrow, along with updating crank circuit.
The mechanical pump is staying, I ran the truck after electric pump plumbing completed. Gas was drawn thru the electric by the mechanical. It only idled till choke kicked off.
Gas filter seems low.
Also checked that my vented Gas cap was venting, it is.
Most fuel filters on carbed engines never fully fill up..has to do with fuel vapor pressures--I have an old WIX filter catalog that has a whole page of explanations "why",and its so technical the average mechanic probably wont understand half of it--I don't either!--..but its considered "normal" as long as the engine doesn't exhibit fuel starvation issues under load..
Thanks @diesel4me , I don't recall ever seeing one totally full, but that seemed weak, picture is with engine running mechanical pump only.
Fuel starvation under load, or maybe vapor lock, is why the electric pump is going on.
Fuel starvation under load, or maybe vapor lock, is why the electric pump is going on.
- Hmm neither of these have that explanation.
My catalog is a 1993 ...
The tech info is in the back pages in mine..
The tech info is in the back pages in mine..
Ok so reading all of it, now I will tell my story.
I got a 75 wagoneer with a 360amc engine and a motorcraft carburetor.
It had been sitting in a field for 8 years so I changed all fuel hoses, filters and started the engine and it ran fine so I took it for a drive.
It was running fine until I drove full throttle for extended periods and it would starve for fuel. Ilet idle for 10 seconds and it would get alive again for another 10-15 seconds. I changed the fuel pump.
No change.
I added an electric fuel pump and it just lasted longer.
Finally I started looking at it and the fuel return line to the tank was lower than the feed line and it seemed like it was easier for the fuel to go into it than the carb.
I thought it can't be right, so I checked the old hose I replaced and sure enough it had a restriction in the return line.
So I pinched the return line with a vise grip to almost closed and drove it, and it drove fine.
I kept the vise grip on with electric tape so it doesn't move, until I sold the truck 6 years later.
Not sure that is your problem but it's something to look into.
@imiceman44 Thanks for relating your experience . This was a suspension of mine as well after new pump and hoses. I pinched it off early on, didn't seem to make a difference.
