My 86 has a non ccc qjet with the 700r4.
Pm me your addy & I'll send it to you. Just pay the freight. I'll ship it week after this when I get paid.
It worked great, it's been sitting for @3 years since the tranny fried.
CK5
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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance
- Thread starter Wes Harden
- Start date
Pm me your addy & I'll send it to you. Just pay the freight. I'll ship it week after this when I get paid.
It worked great, it's been sitting for @3 years since the tranny fried.
chit, forgot how old this thread is lol.
I'm interested.
Called ORD today, the springs I got where shipped by mistake. I'm going to use them. The cost of shipping would just be to much. I probably should have ordered the HD springs in the first place. Only difference between the EZ and HD is the 4th small leave on bottom, if I don't like it I can remove it.
current unknown springs have 6 leaves. So the ride should me much nicer, and hopefully level, side to side.
current unknown springs have 6 leaves. So the ride should me much nicer, and hopefully level, side to side.
Plan for heating up problem with A/C on. Never boiled over, so far.
#1 6 blade fan.
#2 change t stat to 170* with 3/32nd hole in it. From 180* with a hole. Might even go to a 160*. I like the lower temps for the trans.
#3 Put the engine oil cooler back. I ordered Derale stacked plate & fin 32000 btu cooler, I have a sandwich adapter with under 180* bypass.
#4 adjust the fans depth in the shroud.
I hope these step do the trick. The truck hasn't been worked in the truly HOT part of summer. If it is having troubles now.....
#1 6 blade fan.
#2 change t stat to 170* with 3/32nd hole in it. From 180* with a hole. Might even go to a 160*. I like the lower temps for the trans.
#3 Put the engine oil cooler back. I ordered Derale stacked plate & fin 32000 btu cooler, I have a sandwich adapter with under 180* bypass.
#4 adjust the fans depth in the shroud.
I hope these step do the trick. The truck hasn't been worked in the truly HOT part of summer. If it is having troubles now.....
Did some stuff.
Put 6 blade fan on, changed t stat to 170.
R&r'd power steering pump, put in a seal kit. Pump was dripping, bad enough oil was blowing onto my left front upper shock mount.
Rerouted a wire loom I thought was to close to hot stuff. Starter my ORD sway bar disconnect in stall. Will finish that tomorrow and test the cooling system changes.
New fan has larger blades along with protruding out of the shroud a little more.
Inspection revealed the shroud isn't square to the fan.
I have @1/2" at the bottom.
My new stacked plate cooler arrived I need to find a spot, and considering under the core support.
Put 6 blade fan on, changed t stat to 170.
R&r'd power steering pump, put in a seal kit. Pump was dripping, bad enough oil was blowing onto my left front upper shock mount.
Rerouted a wire loom I thought was to close to hot stuff. Starter my ORD sway bar disconnect in stall. Will finish that tomorrow and test the cooling system changes.
New fan has larger blades along with protruding out of the shroud a little more.
Inspection revealed the shroud isn't square to the fan.
I have @1/2" at the bottom.
My new stacked plate cooler arrived I need to find a spot, and considering under the core support.
Well I almost got the ORD sway bar correction/disconnect finished. Is not a bolt in and go thing. Going to need to shim the brackets. ORD says to reuse the washers that come off original mounting. Only 1 washer will work, the other's id is the same as the od of the metal bushing, so way big. I did find 1, 3/4" washer in my collection, going to need to get a couple more.
The hitch pins from the kit won't fit though the original sway bar metal bushings. Not sure how I and going to solve that. I ran a coarse sanding drum through the bushing, no success. Right now I have the old bolt securing the sway bar to brackets. going to need some 3/4" coarse nuts, temp fix for now.
Need to be back in Havasu soon, fingers crossed that the new house closes June 1st.
The hitch pins from the kit won't fit though the original sway bar metal bushings. Not sure how I and going to solve that. I ran a coarse sanding drum through the bushing, no success. Right now I have the old bolt securing the sway bar to brackets. going to need some 3/4" coarse nuts, temp fix for now.
Need to be back in Havasu soon, fingers crossed that the new house closes June 1st.
Go Pro video of pinon angle at @ speed of vibration. Let me know what you see ? good bad or different shot needed.
I saw a little bit about 1:15 and some about 10-15sec later.
Are you running a cv at the t-case output? The angle doesn't look terrible if so, but kinda hard to tell w/ a gopro at that angle. It also seemed like the vibration was on the upper part of the shaft as opposed to the diff end.
Maybe some video of close to the t-case.
Are you running a cv at the t-case output? The angle doesn't look terrible if so, but kinda hard to tell w/ a gopro at that angle. It also seemed like the vibration was on the upper part of the shaft as opposed to the diff end.
Maybe some video of close to the t-case.
Yes super duty cv at t case.
Yesterday I did some low speed hill climbs, to test the heating issue. Drove up into the Claremont million dollar views, steep grade 6 or 7% 20 mph 3rd gear A/c on gauge crept up to 3/4 before I ran out of hill, trans was 185ish. Not really a good test outside temps were @80*. Real test will be in Lake Havasu next week, when the new shop closes escrow.
Then after I let it cool down I started the oil cooler reinstall. I had removed it when I put the missing bell housing support rods back in, the oil tubes interfered. In the time since I relocated the trans cooler to where the oil cooler had been. I am unsure if this truck came with a cooler factory, what I removed looked after market except for the cooler and some brackets.
Today I ended up putting my new more efficient cooler behind the bumper mounted almost flat to the ground . Air can flow down from grill area through it. New An 10 braided hoses and temp controlled sandwich adapter from Derale. Making the hoses with my new Koul Tool was dream, I was sorry I only needed to make two hoses. Wish I had set of those 30 years ago my hands might be in better shape.
I snap some pics of the install tomorrow.
Then after I let it cool down I started the oil cooler reinstall. I had removed it when I put the missing bell housing support rods back in, the oil tubes interfered. In the time since I relocated the trans cooler to where the oil cooler had been. I am unsure if this truck came with a cooler factory, what I removed looked after market except for the cooler and some brackets.
Today I ended up putting my new more efficient cooler behind the bumper mounted almost flat to the ground . Air can flow down from grill area through it. New An 10 braided hoses and temp controlled sandwich adapter from Derale. Making the hoses with my new Koul Tool was dream, I was sorry I only needed to make two hoses. Wish I had set of those 30 years ago my hands might be in better shape.
I snap some pics of the install tomorrow.
After doing a lot interweb detective work, IF I still don't like how hot the coolant temps are running under load, I am going to external only cool the trans. This will remove the burden of cooling the trans oil from the radiator, I have a largish plate cooler with a fan. I am now of the opinion you can't get these truck autos to cool, at least not in the south west. The torque converter heats the oil just fine, for function.
I've watched that video a couple times and it seems like I can see the yoke on the diff angle up and then down just slightly and I was wondering if that was due to you being on and off the throttle. I also can't help but wonder if by all the upgrades and mods we do to our rigs if we don't change the harmonic frequencies of things.
I am also beginning to wonder about our transmissions not wanting to cool. I still can't get my temps below 210 on the freeway even after moving the cooler out front. Granted its partially blocked by the winch bumper, but even with the external fan on, it gets up to 210 like before, it just takes longer to get there.
I hear ya, mine was staying just above t stat temp. But would climb while working towing boat, big hill, then I put a Derale cool pan stays 20 + degrees cooler more if coasting above 40mph.
I will probably experiment even if the engine temps are good
I will probably experiment even if the engine temps are good
Was just going to ask if you guys were running deep pans. Saw this video, not super controlled for variables, but sounds like they work. https://youtu.be/RX-y14hSd_o
My suspicion, same as the engine coolant, is that capacity is going to make a very large difference, compared to trying to increase cooling via airflow. It sounds like the deep pans are nearly doubling fluid capacity, that's a huge increase. I'd love to be able to plumb in an aluminum one or two gallon reservoir in the cooling lines and see if that made a similar difference.
My suspicion, same as the engine coolant, is that capacity is going to make a very large difference, compared to trying to increase cooling via airflow. It sounds like the deep pans are nearly doubling fluid capacity, that's a huge increase. I'd love to be able to plumb in an aluminum one or two gallon reservoir in the cooling lines and see if that made a similar difference.
I know I needed 10 quarts when I put that pan on, torque converter would have retained whatever it held for a normal filter change.
I dont know that increasing the capacity by itself is gonna lower temps- it will take longer to get there. The pan being larger would give more surface area along w/ more dwell time in the pan to cool off.
Air cooling just isn't that efficient...liquid cooling is on the order of 2-10 times more efficient (can't find solid numbers) so with that sort of discrepancy, doubling surface area would definitely be a start when it comes to air cooling. But in this thread alone, it seems that airflow doesn't help that much, otherwise the coolers being discussed would be more effective, whereas it seems deep pans do a better job. I doubt airflow under these rigs is very smooth. It exists, no doubt, but it's got to be pretty spoiled by the time it gets past the engine bay and front axle.
I just keep going back to how GM addressed engine cooling the diesels and large gas engines (square bodies)...more liquid volume. The amount of air available for heat exchange never changed other than via fan design.
All academic of course, for whatever reason, it seems the deep pans make a significant difference in operating temperatures. Perhaps under certain circumstances the deep pans won't be able to mitigate trans temp (high ambient temps, very high load for long periods of time), but anecdotally, they seem to make a measurable difference.
I just keep going back to how GM addressed engine cooling the diesels and large gas engines (square bodies)...more liquid volume. The amount of air available for heat exchange never changed other than via fan design.
All academic of course, for whatever reason, it seems the deep pans make a significant difference in operating temperatures. Perhaps under certain circumstances the deep pans won't be able to mitigate trans temp (high ambient temps, very high load for long periods of time), but anecdotally, they seem to make a measurable difference.
My trans pan is is +3qt plus whatever the cooler and lines take. I also am missing either 1st or 2nd gear plus have a 1200 stall torque converter. Engine temps never get above T stat temp of 180. About 150 inlet temp after going thru the radiator and going back into the engine. And that temp hardly ever changes regardless.
