I’d go more gear than power. Power just stresses things which causes heat. Gears give you the extra leverage. Ideally would be an even combo of both power and gear.
CK5
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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance
- Thread starter Wes Harden
- Start date
Already at 4.88 in overdrive it equals 3.41. 5.33 would be 3.73
Thanks for the real world info. The driver of our KW at work is damn drama queen the sky is falling kind of guy so I can never depend on what he ever says. The other two Freightliners only haul pit to pit so they never are under any real load. I know my TH350 runs hot due to not having a 2nd gear so I will just change my fluid once a year and call it good. Probably overkill, but I'm good with it. I owe you and Wes at least a beer if we ever get a chance to meet up.
Did I read correctly that you are not using any type of trans fluid cooler in your radiator, you're just using a remote cooler with a dedicated fan and the cooling pan? I think I read that you have a 3rd gear lockup switch, also. With no fluid to fluid cooling, I think those temps are great...especially since the airflow through the tran cooler seems like it might be a little restricted.
Cooling relies on the difference in temps: You're trying to keep it at 180 and it's 100 outside, you've only got 80 degrees of difference...much harder than trying to keep it at 200, which gives you 100 degrees of difference.
Cooling relies on the difference in temps: You're trying to keep it at 180 and it's 100 outside, you've only got 80 degrees of difference...much harder than trying to keep it at 200, which gives you 100 degrees of difference.
Yes I only have an external remote cooler, with a shrouded 10" puller fan. I also have a Derale cool pan with 2 extra quarts. Pan works well at highway speeds.
So far it only get hot towing in high temps. Since removing the rad from trans cooling, temps will cool down much quicker and a little lower.
I haven't done a lot of slow speed stuff yet to know what the performance of the coolers will be.
So far it only get hot towing in high temps. Since removing the rad from trans cooling, temps will cool down much quicker and a little lower.
I haven't done a lot of slow speed stuff yet to know what the performance of the coolers will be.
That's interesting. I've noticed my water temp usually goes up fast when my trans starts to get hot. The last time I went up Cerro Gordo Rd, i had to stop let the radiator fans cool things off a bit since the water temp was as high as the trans temp, which actually makes sense if you think about it. I try to keep everything under 230, but couldn't do it on that long, slow uphill.
By the way, if I'm reading correctly, you've actually pulled the plug and joined those of us who are retired. Welcome, I highly recommend it, although I hope you don't think you're going to have more free time now...it doesn't work that way.
By the way, if I'm reading correctly, you've actually pulled the plug and joined those of us who are retired. Welcome, I highly recommend it, although I hope you don't think you're going to have more free time now...it doesn't work that way.
Yes I have spent my entire retirement so far, selling houses, buying a house and moving.
With only a little truck time, and one dune buggy weekend.
The truck has made 5 round trips 3 of them towing this year.
With only a little truck time, and one dune buggy weekend.
The truck has made 5 round trips 3 of them towing this year.
Update on trans temps. I have made my last two trips, towing 3k pd, to Lake Havasu in the late evening or early morning. Loaded pulling hills the trans stay below 200, even 180 most of the time.
So the ambient temperature is the biggest contributor to over 200 temps.
I have been using 3rd gear locked up for most of the hills. Engine pulls well @3250 rpm @60.
Once I get moved, I am going after drive line vibrations. install the new front springs, swap the front ring and pinion, front drive shaft.
This list is current minimum for Blazer Bash 2022 which I plan to attend.
So the ambient temperature is the biggest contributor to over 200 temps.
I have been using 3rd gear locked up for most of the hills. Engine pulls well @3250 rpm @60.
Once I get moved, I am going after drive line vibrations. install the new front springs, swap the front ring and pinion, front drive shaft.
This list is current minimum for Blazer Bash 2022 which I plan to attend.
That whole post is great , in my opinion!
Haven't done anything to Burb in weeks, I leveled the driver seat on Saturday, in Havasu before the return trip to Ca. Truck has been hauling full trailers to Havasu once or twice a week for a month. @ 570 miles round trip. Has done very well, until Saturday night. I thought I heard a change in sounds, but I am almost def and can't trust anything I hear any more. I got off I15 and pulled away from the off ramp stop, full on exhaust leak. drive a few miles to my brothers place, where I check it out and find the right head pipe broke clean off at the manifold.
Sunday is a fiasco the burb needed to load 1 more trailer full. I had the 67 furd loaded and a 2nd trailer full of garage stuff., Rent a u haul thinking I'll tow my trailer with it, nope hitch lock on it and no ball mount. I ask for the key and am told can't tow my trailer with their truck. Should have busted the dam lock off bought a new hitch pin.
Any way the bed of that truck got filled for 1 trip. I brought the 67 to my brothers, and we unloaded it, back for 2nd load and last load. got to brother at 2:30 am.
So now I can concentrate on the Burb a little. I called a known good exhaust shop in the high desert, made an appointment for week from Wednesday. I went to the shop talk with Mark the guy that does the exhaust work. Discussed a few things. I need to change my y pipe it right where the front driveshaft need to be. Mark wants the drive shaft, which is in Havasu atm) to make sure we get clearance. I wanted to run the right side down the frame past the t case and cross over to 3" pipe. Any thoughts about behind the t case. Mark didn't think there was room. Will go from 2" to 2.25" head pipe.
I the meantime I want to eliminate the efe spacer. I have log manifolds w/o air injection ports, in Havasu. Going to grab a right side, at least, go over it with die grinder and put short studs in. and figure out a temp collector flange.
I have had a small oil leak for awhile drip at rear main little wetness at front seal, but it has gotten worse. I think it might be the oil cooler adapter, am due for an oil change. I'll give the adapter a good once over.
Have wanted to redo the exhaust for a while, been a long time since this truck had it's front drive shaft.
Sunday is a fiasco the burb needed to load 1 more trailer full. I had the 67 furd loaded and a 2nd trailer full of garage stuff., Rent a u haul thinking I'll tow my trailer with it, nope hitch lock on it and no ball mount. I ask for the key and am told can't tow my trailer with their truck. Should have busted the dam lock off bought a new hitch pin.
Any way the bed of that truck got filled for 1 trip. I brought the 67 to my brothers, and we unloaded it, back for 2nd load and last load. got to brother at 2:30 am.
So now I can concentrate on the Burb a little. I called a known good exhaust shop in the high desert, made an appointment for week from Wednesday. I went to the shop talk with Mark the guy that does the exhaust work. Discussed a few things. I need to change my y pipe it right where the front driveshaft need to be. Mark wants the drive shaft, which is in Havasu atm) to make sure we get clearance. I wanted to run the right side down the frame past the t case and cross over to 3" pipe. Any thoughts about behind the t case. Mark didn't think there was room. Will go from 2" to 2.25" head pipe.
I the meantime I want to eliminate the efe spacer. I have log manifolds w/o air injection ports, in Havasu. Going to grab a right side, at least, go over it with die grinder and put short studs in. and figure out a temp collector flange.
I have had a small oil leak for awhile drip at rear main little wetness at front seal, but it has gotten worse. I think it might be the oil cooler adapter, am due for an oil change. I'll give the adapter a good once over.
Have wanted to redo the exhaust for a while, been a long time since this truck had it's front drive shaft.
There is room to put an exhaust pipe between the transfer case and the frame. It does make the fuel lines rather hot. I don't remember guys ever having problems until the ethanol content got as high as it is now. I know that there are some fixes, but I have no good idea how it will work in your truck, in your usage conditions.
The brake line doesn't seem to care.
I honestly don't know what to tell you. It may be possible that only running that section will be less of a problem as others who have ran full duals. Maybe the reduced heat from having the pipe kick over the driver side at the back of the case will work fine for the fuel.
The brake line doesn't seem to care.
I honestly don't know what to tell you. It may be possible that only running that section will be less of a problem as others who have ran full duals. Maybe the reduced heat from having the pipe kick over the driver side at the back of the case will work fine for the fuel.
It does depend a great deal on what all you've done as far as what will fit. I had some clearance issues with my front driveshaft on the trans pan, but not the exhaust. I've got some pics of the Y-pipe area on my media page that might give you some ideas, but I ran a single pipe to the rear...In all my days, I've only seen a few people hit that low-hanging crossover pipe we all hate. Seems like it would hit all kinds of stuff, but I've never really seen anyone have a problem with it...not too many options other than going straight to the back with no Y-pipe or crossover. You don't have to run cats in Havasu, do you? I think Phoenix is now smogged, but you should be small enough to avoid restrictions in Havasu, right?
Cool I'll look for the pick. Hadn't considered the trans pan, I put a deep Derale cool pan on. Gonna have to scope that out.
Not required to have cats even in Kommiefornia, never equipped.
But no emissions testing in Mohave county Az
Not required to have cats even in Kommiefornia, never equipped.
But no emissions testing in Mohave county Az
Well been a while since I updated this. I had the exhaust done. I don't like it. 1st they broke a stud on driver side collector. Used 5/16ths bolt through the manifold and flange, talk about Chicken$@#%.
I wanted pass side to go down the frame and cross over behind the t case, they said not enough room. I call bs, truck has provisions for factory dual and there is a heat shield on that frame rail.
Then they blended the pass side into the 3" main tube @ 2" from the trans pan and temp sensor, I had specified I wanted the exhaust away from the trans pan, I am pretty sure it was farther away all around b4.
The loop under the trans is low I new that was going to happen to clear the drive shaft, but it is 1.5" forward of the cross member. Had they gotten it closer it could have been a little higher.
So they condemned my series 70 SS muffler and replaced it with a series 50 SS muffler, I told them I had series 70 and that I liked it, they gave me some bull story about series 70 are for big blocks, I am like yeah SO ... what your point.
Then they total blew the clearance for over the axle, and the tail pipe is partially between the snub pedestal and the spring. The only thing they got right is the tail pipe between the tank and the spring hanger, with a 90° out the driver side, it could be a little higher.
I'll get some pictures tomorrow.
Been trying to decide what to do about this. I don't want they guys doing it over, and fortunately it wasn't that expensive. I even told them I was will to pay for quality work.
So I can try to do it myself, I can't bend 2.25 or 3" exhaust pipe, I would need to get a kit and cut and weld. I have almost 0 experience welding thin tube, and am horrible at welding upside down.
I can try and find a better craftsman that is willing to listen to what I want and do it.
I am going to replace the left side manifold with a non air injection, so the broken stud/bolt cob job will be dealt with soon. I did the right side just before taking the truck to shop for the work, they didn't want eliminate the crossover valve, so i did it. They know I did it, saw my work all over this truck, and didn't have the pride to even try to do class work.
For now though the truck is usable which it wasn't before this work was done. Towed one last enclosed trailer load out. Will take the enclosed back trailer to Apple Valley, beginning of Nov. My Brother uses as his dirk bike garage when out in Johnston Valley. Grab the RV go to Phoenix for the Nascar race maybe visit some CK5'ers, and my Daughter. Take the rv back grab the utility trailer, that is loaded with the last of my garage stuff tow that back here to Havasu.
Today I got to swap out the 4" rear shackles for 6". @K85 Octane pointed out my 4" were at a bad angle and rubbing on the spring eye. The angle is much better now, and my drive shaft/pinion angle is now with .5°, fingers crossed the vibration I don't like is gone.
I wanted pass side to go down the frame and cross over behind the t case, they said not enough room. I call bs, truck has provisions for factory dual and there is a heat shield on that frame rail.
Then they blended the pass side into the 3" main tube @ 2" from the trans pan and temp sensor, I had specified I wanted the exhaust away from the trans pan, I am pretty sure it was farther away all around b4.
The loop under the trans is low I new that was going to happen to clear the drive shaft, but it is 1.5" forward of the cross member. Had they gotten it closer it could have been a little higher.
So they condemned my series 70 SS muffler and replaced it with a series 50 SS muffler, I told them I had series 70 and that I liked it, they gave me some bull story about series 70 are for big blocks, I am like yeah SO ... what your point.
Then they total blew the clearance for over the axle, and the tail pipe is partially between the snub pedestal and the spring. The only thing they got right is the tail pipe between the tank and the spring hanger, with a 90° out the driver side, it could be a little higher.
I'll get some pictures tomorrow.
Been trying to decide what to do about this. I don't want they guys doing it over, and fortunately it wasn't that expensive. I even told them I was will to pay for quality work.
So I can try to do it myself, I can't bend 2.25 or 3" exhaust pipe, I would need to get a kit and cut and weld. I have almost 0 experience welding thin tube, and am horrible at welding upside down.
I can try and find a better craftsman that is willing to listen to what I want and do it.
I am going to replace the left side manifold with a non air injection, so the broken stud/bolt cob job will be dealt with soon. I did the right side just before taking the truck to shop for the work, they didn't want eliminate the crossover valve, so i did it. They know I did it, saw my work all over this truck, and didn't have the pride to even try to do class work.
For now though the truck is usable which it wasn't before this work was done. Towed one last enclosed trailer load out. Will take the enclosed back trailer to Apple Valley, beginning of Nov. My Brother uses as his dirk bike garage when out in Johnston Valley. Grab the RV go to Phoenix for the Nascar race maybe visit some CK5'ers, and my Daughter. Take the rv back grab the utility trailer, that is loaded with the last of my garage stuff tow that back here to Havasu.
Today I got to swap out the 4" rear shackles for 6". @K85 Octane pointed out my 4" were at a bad angle and rubbing on the spring eye. The angle is much better now, and my drive shaft/pinion angle is now with .5°, fingers crossed the vibration I don't like is gone.
That sucks. I have never had that big of a disappointment from an exhaust shop, but I still started doing my own after a mediocre job on my '70 K10. I knew who to yell at with my own work. Exhaust work can be a challenge to get everything right, that's very true, however shops seem to get in too big of a rush.
I am really sorry you had such a bad job done on your exhaust. Holy crap, how could they screw up in so many different ways. We only have 1 muffler shop in town now, but he's pretty good and both him and his mom are speed freaks on the sand so they can't be that bad... That being said, I have no problem learning something knew if people seem to be content on do a crap job. Especially when I can invest the money in the tools needed and almost come out even.
So promised pics
I got screwed by an exhaust shop one time too. I asked for 2.5" pipe, and when I showed up later it was all 2.25". 
scottsdale86
1/2 ton status
I don't know who you went to but the two shops I have used down in Fontana (since i have seen you are near the HD) are Jim's Muffler and Fab and Rogers Exhaust Shop. Both do good work and exactly like you ask.
