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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance

ok

6 is a normal operating pressure for these. Unless the extra fuel is goin in. Could also be bad fuel or high timing
 
the Dieseling I am pretty sure was sticky/gummy throttle linkage. If I got a go snap on the gas before I shut down no diesel. Timing shouldn't have moved. Should be 4-6° btdc
 
I know that there can be differences in engines and how they respond, but I am curious about your base timing. I often end up about 12* on mine. Even the instructions for the PF4 are to set it at 12*. Have you tried more advanced timing?
 
Yes, I have timed it many ways. So the engine is 24 years old. Flat top pistons, Iron Gm heads, that have been milled at least twice. Split duration cam with @.480" lift.
1st my dampener markings and cover pointer don't match.
So I have timed it for best vacuum. Ran great, but it pinged. I have trouble hearing it ping, my heard it, so it started retarding the timing, and test driving, with boat in tow, so was working hard.
Ran like this for awhile. Then I switched back and forth from ported to manifold vacuum a few times. I still think there is preignition, So I measured and marked the dampener for correct tdc for cover pointer and timed with a light to 4° btdc. Is 4° btdc and on ported vacuum now.

Today I reassembled carb, new gaskets, accel pump, went through all adjustments. Still runs rich, is dripping fuel from primary boosters. I didn't change the needle and seat, they are @ a year old, the seat is a large .140" orifice. The float is 20+ years old. I ordered a new float, 1 that will tolerate ethanol.
I don't trust the the little summit brand fuel pressure gauge at the regulator, read 6 psi, I am going to test the pressure with another gauge. Everyone say 4-7 psi. The Holley Red label pump is rated at max pressure 7 psi.

It runs and I'm going to leave together for the moment. I have a new garage door going in the rear of the rv garage (Shop), so I need to clear a path and for the work to be done.
maybe Thursday or Friday can et back at it.

I think I need to run octane booster, give it the timing it wants. Or maybe new engine time ??? Big Block ??
 
Wes Harden said:
Yes, I have timed it many ways. So the engine is 24 years old. Flat top pistons, Iron Gm heads, that have been milled at least twice. Split duration cam with @.480" lift.
1st my dampener markings and cover pointer don't match.
So I have timed it for best vacuum. Ran great, but it pinged. I have trouble hearing it ping, my heard it, so it started retarding the timing, and test driving, with boat in tow, so was working hard.
Ran like this for awhile. Then I switched back and forth from ported to manifold vacuum a few times. I still think there is preignition, So I measured and marked the dampener for correct tdc for cover pointer and timed with a light to 4° btdc. Is 4° btdc and on ported vacuum now.

Today I reassembled carb, new gaskets, accel pump, went through all adjustments. Still runs rich, is dripping fuel from primary boosters. I didn't change the needle and seat, they are @ a year old, the seat is a large .140" orifice. The float is 20+ years old. I ordered a new float, 1 that will tolerate ethanol.
I don't trust the the little summit brand fuel pressure gauge at the regulator, read 6 psi, I am going to test the pressure with another gauge. Everyone say 4-7 psi. The Holley Red label pump is rated at max pressure 7 psi.

It runs and I'm going to leave together for the moment. I have a new garage door going in the rear of the rv garage (Shop), so I need to clear a path and for the work to be done.
maybe Thursday or Friday can et back at it.

I think I need to run octane booster, give it the timing it wants. Or maybe new engine time ??? Big Block ??
Click to expand...
You answered your question. The answer is always big block.
 
I''m of the SBC 400 variety. Less weight and still lots of torque if built correctly.

Something I have done in the past when I lost my pointer was I got the engine to TDC and then made a chalk mark on the dampner and the block and then timed it that way. Not perfect, but it worked.
 
not a fan of Blueprint engines, Maybe GM performance...... I think I'd perfectly happy with a stock ls5
 
Wes Harden said:
the Dieseling I am pretty sure was sticky/gummy throttle linkage. If I got a go snap on the gas before I shut down no diesel. Timing shouldn't have moved. Should be 4-6° btdc
Click to expand...

Wes Harden said:
Yes, I have timed it many ways. So the engine is 24 years old. Flat top pistons, Iron Gm heads, that have been milled at least twice. Split duration cam with @.480" lift.
1st my dampener markings and cover pointer don't match.
So I have timed it for best vacuum. Ran great, but it pinged. I have trouble hearing it ping, my heard it, so it started retarding the timing, and test driving, with boat in tow, so was working hard.
Ran like this for awhile. Then I switched back and forth from ported to manifold vacuum a few times. I still think there is preignition, So I measured and marked the dampener for correct tdc for cover pointer and timed with a light to 4° btdc. Is 4° btdc and on ported vacuum now.

Today I reassembled carb, new gaskets, accel pump, went through all adjustments. Still runs rich, is dripping fuel from primary boosters. I didn't change the needle and seat, they are @ a year old, the seat is a large .140" orifice. The float is 20+ years old. I ordered a new float, 1 that will tolerate ethanol.
I don't trust the the little summit brand fuel pressure gauge at the regulator, read 6 psi, I am going to test the pressure with another gauge. Everyone say 4-7 psi. The Holley Red label pump is rated at max pressure 7 psi.

It runs and I'm going to leave together for the moment. I have a new garage door going in the rear of the rv garage (Shop), so I need to clear a path and for the work to be done.
maybe Thursday or Friday can et back at it.

I think I need to run octane booster, give it the timing it wants. Or maybe new engine time ??? Big Block ??
Click to expand...
Did you ever get some math done on your compression ratio?
That sounds like you have high compression ratio which means you need higher octane and more work on the timing.
Definitely try the octane boosters to see if there's improvement
 
Going to put compression test on the list, and at least note the static compression.
I know the deck height is .020, but have no clue what the chamber volume might be. The pistons are generic,and no clue what the done displacement might be
 
Wes Harden said:
Going to put compression test on the list, and at least note the static compression.
I know the deck height is .020, but have no clue what the chamber volume might be. The pistons are generic,and no clue what the done displacement might be
Click to expand...
Well without taking the engine apart to measure things it will not help.
But if it runs better and cooler with high octane, you have high compression.
 
If the static compression is over 175 I will know I need to do some thing, like new heads. I know it is above 9.5 to 1,
 
With iron heads, getting up over 9.5:1 is starting to cut it close
 
Yes we had better gas when I built this. Plus the machine had strict orders not to mill the heads, but they did it anyway. I didn't have a lot of time, so it went together.

stolen from reference.com
For example, if the atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi and the compression ratio is 11:1, the equation to solve for the psi is (14.7*11)/1. Therefore, the answer is 161.7 psi. People use this method of calculation to determine the pounds per square a piston produces

So over 165 psi might need to look for some heads
 
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