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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance

Just saying, big block in a 107 degree temps pulling a 7500 pound blazer in the desert at low speeds never saw over 200 degrees. I was lugging it in 3rd gear a lot too. Factory
Squarebody diesel radiator.

I don’t think Larry’s got any hotter with his ac going.

I ran the same radiator with the 5.3 and it never got hot. Even in Utah summer heat it never got hot.

I’d look for the biggest sob you can stuff in there for sure.
 
ZooMad75 said:
Just saying, big block in a 107 degree temps pulling a 7500 pound blazer in the desert at low speeds never saw over 200 degrees. I was lugging it in 3rd gear a lot too. Factory
Squarebody diesel radiator.

I don’t think Larry’s got any hotter with his ac going.

I ran the same radiator with the 5.3 and it never got hot. Even in Utah summer heat it never got hot.

I’d look for the biggest sob you can stuff in there for sure.
Click to expand...
I already offered to sell him my 93 454.
Just saying.
And I will sell it for a reasonable price too
 
I am stuck in indecision land, swap in a big block? Get a new gm 383 and bolt that right in ? New heads for the current mill ? Rebuild SBC 400 I have, add in new modern heads ?

I really should get the 454 from you @imiceman44, I just don't know when I be up your way, should be in Mammoth in September, with a trailer maybe could get on that side of the mountains on the way home.
 
Let me retell my story of my big block '70 K10...

It has a stock size radiator. These trucks can only fit a 28"x17" core radiator.
It had no problems back years ago with a new NAPA water pump. Killed the cam, rebuilt the engine and decided to replace the water pump even though it had been nose down the whole time that it was off.
BIG MISTAKE!
After that, the friggin truck wouldn't stay cool, AND it didn't have any heat inside in the winter. It wouldn't stay below 210* at idle if the ambient was over 80*.
I bought a new, POS , BeCool radiator, which started leaking after the warranty was up.. Same results.

160* thermostat, same results..

I drilled the intake for rear bypass ports, and made them tie into a block above the thermostat, smae results..
Everybody said that the water pump should be good since it wasn't a reman..
Finally get mad enough to buy an Edelbrock pump after looking at their test results and claims.
PROBLEM CURED!!!
Most will scoff at the price, but don't consider that these old trucks have a smaller radiator than most ot the ones in the square trucks.
I have an Edelbrock pump on my 406 in my C10, partly because it has a cam stop bolt built in too, but it had a 3 row for quite a while with no issues. It got the brass 4 row from my K10 when I bought the BeCool pile. (That one is gone and a Northern unit replaced it)

So I would bet that the coolant isn't moving fast enough in your truck, since RPM helps.
 
Wes Harden said:
I am stuck in indecision land, swap in a big block? Get a new gm 383 and bolt that right in ? New heads for the current mill ? Rebuild SBC 400 I have, add in new modern heads ?

I really should get the 454 from you @imiceman44, I just don't know when I be up your way, should be in Mammoth in September, with a trailer maybe could get on that side of the mountains on the way home.
Click to expand...
Mammoth is 5 hours away not really on your way.
I am not in a hurry.
When do you come back to grass valley?
 
Not sure, no plans to atm. Will have the motor home so 5 hours not a huge deal, and retired so ...... 9+ hours from here to Grass Valley. You have any plans to go to So cal my brothers place is in Apple Valley.

I forget 93 494 is L29 ? 1 piece rear main and roller cam ?
 
Wes Harden said:
Not sure, no plans to atm. Will have the motor home so 5 hours not a huge deal, and retired so ...... 9+ hours from here to Grass Valley. You have any plans to go to So cal my brothers place is in Apple Valley.

I forget 93 494 is L29 ? 1 piece rear main and roller cam ?
Click to expand...
93 is tbi.
One piece rear main seal
Block is roller ready.
@folkenheath can tell you more about it.
 
Mine runs ok until I load it up on hot day. Yes the ac and auto trans will add heat, so the cooling system must be configured for the added heat.
 
I'd go 400 with a nice 4x4 cam, good heads, intake, dual exhaust, but that's me. My 400 hasn't gotten over 185 since the rebuild and having my foot in it at a buck 10 outside. I don't run the AC but the Jimmy does have a fat ass and weighs 6400lbs. 3 row aluminum radiator with a "high performance" water pump from Vatozone. Can't keep the transmission cool to save my life though.
 
So I am going to need to find brackets for all my current belt driven accessories if I go to a big block ?
 
Wes Harden said:
So I am going to need to find brackets for all my current belt driven accessories if I go to a big block ?
Click to expand...
Yep. But knowing you already got a serp pulley with your new alternator, I'd just source some boneyard serp brackets. It's a much better setup. You could reuse your P/S pump with a pulley change. Though the a/c compressor may require a change depending on what you have now. Most factory serp setups prior to the L29 setup use an R4 compressor.
 
Yeah not going to use a R4 hate them. I have a new style A6 from four seasons. maybe a hybrid system serp alt with v belt ps and ac, all going standard rotation.
 
Little disappointed in the new lock strips I used from GMCPauls. Installed June 4th 2020, and last Wednesday,

IMG_20200603_173248.jpg

IMG_20220706_161531.jpg
 
Same thing happened to the lock strips I got for my sliding rear window from LMC. Only looked good for a year or two.
 
I have nothing but good to say about my Northern and Windstar fan setup on the Maiden. Obviously I’m not towing, but I do think the aluminum is a great heat exchanger.
 
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