Let me do my front axle swap on your lift and you can keep them haha
CK5
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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance
- Thread starter Wes Harden
- Start date
Not opposed that arrangement at all 
Some measurements to compare.
Pre tear down, unknown 4" lift springs.
New Tuff County HD.
With old shocks connected, @ 3/4" more droop.
With shocks disconnected
@ another 3/4" of droop
How old do think these shocks are?
Pre tear down, unknown 4" lift springs.
New Tuff County HD.
With old shocks connected, @ 3/4" more droop.
With shocks disconnected
@ another 3/4" of droop
How old do think these shocks are?
At least they are USA!
Made in USA that's old
Quick removal of sharp edges left from cutting u bolts
Oh, you don’t like forearm slicers?
Nope. Just looking at them I got a cut.
Pulled the shocks, rotated the tires and set it down, on my articulation ramp.
Did this with and with out the sway bar. Losing the sway bar got me ¼" more droop and @⅜" more stuff.
My factory shock mounts are 21¾" droop and 18¼" stuff.
The ORD Bilstein recommend for 4" lift is 23⅜ and 15⅛.
The 3" lift recommend is 22½ and 14 even.
The spring is almost flat, as pictured. I know there might /will be more movement then I created. Question is how much.
The snubber to spring plate had 4" of clearance.
So which shock do I order?
Did this with and with out the sway bar. Losing the sway bar got me ¼" more droop and @⅜" more stuff.
My factory shock mounts are 21¾" droop and 18¼" stuff.
The ORD Bilstein recommend for 4" lift is 23⅜ and 15⅛.
The 3" lift recommend is 22½ and 14 even.
The spring is almost flat, as pictured. I know there might /will be more movement then I created. Question is how much.
The snubber to spring plate had 4" of clearance.
So which shock do I order?
That front axle doesn’t look flexed at all.
Your measurements only show 3-1/2” of travel. That doesn’t sound right. I think you need more “ramp”
I used my cherry picker to grab the wheel and pick it up till the rear wheel starts to come off the ground. Be harder to do with the solid rally wheels because no holes to strap through.
Got a forklift?
I found a wash right by my house with a nice ramp
Not sure it'll be this weekend, maybe next week I'll pick you up after work and find that ramp.
Failed Evil Energy fitting.
I left a not so flattering review on Amazon. Within a couple days Evil Energy messaged me, and sent me a new fitting. So they care a little bit.
I put it on today, but I'm having trust issues now.
Thou I am not sure I can blame the fitting. I may need to redo my cooler mounting, again. It does have some wiggle, maybe to much.
I left a not so flattering review on Amazon. Within a couple days Evil Energy messaged me, and sent me a new fitting. So they care a little bit.
I put it on today, but I'm having trust issues now.
Thou I am not sure I can blame the fitting. I may need to redo my cooler mounting, again. It does have some wiggle, maybe to much.
I put a set of 6" Tuff Country lift springs on my 1-ton crew cab, and because of the 7000 Lb. weight of my crew cab the springs compressed down to only 5" of lift. I had to take the whole thing apart, and install a 1" zero rate block, in order to get the 6" of lift. About 2-years later the Tuff Country lift springs sacked out because of the excessive amount of crew cab weight, and un-sprung weight of the front Dana-60 that lower quality Tuff Country lift spring are not designed for.
I later bought a set of SkyJackers "made in America". They cost twice the money of Tuff Country lift springs. They also compressed down about 1" because of the weight of my crew cab. I had to install a set of Zero Rates on them too, but after close to 2-tears, because of the quality of U.S. steel the SkyJackers are made of, they have not sacked out at all yet. Your Suburban, because all the extra frame and sheet meatal it has over a Blazer or single cab pick up, is very heavy too like my crew cab, and you may end up with the same problem I had.
I later bought a set of SkyJackers "made in America". They cost twice the money of Tuff Country lift springs. They also compressed down about 1" because of the weight of my crew cab. I had to install a set of Zero Rates on them too, but after close to 2-tears, because of the quality of U.S. steel the SkyJackers are made of, they have not sacked out at all yet. Your Suburban, because all the extra frame and sheet meatal it has over a Blazer or single cab pick up, is very heavy too like my crew cab, and you may end up with the same problem I had.
To figure out my shock length I just measured my eye-to-eye shock mount length at rest. I then diveded that by 2 which will give the stroke length needed. The front shock mount eye-to-eye measurement was 22". I diveded that by 2, and it gave me 11". Since a 10" stroke is the longest stroke length Bilstein has that is what I went with. My shocks have basically 6" of compressed travel, and 4" of rebound travel. My limiting straps only allow for 2" of rebound travel.
Yes, it is heavy. The 77 works the lift more than the 01 with big block.
These are Tough Country HD 4". I'm hoping for better results.
The TC's are not as thick spring pack as the unknown they replaced.
If I am not happy with them, I might go ORD custom
These are Tough Country HD 4". I'm hoping for better results.
The TC's are not as thick spring pack as the unknown they replaced.
If I am not happy with them, I might go ORD custom
I learned the hard way on my ‘57 Chevy … NEVER cheap out on AN fittings. I stuck with Russell fittings for the longest time and after spending what I thought was too much coin, bought some no-names on eBay. Life began to suck after that, made even tougher as there’s no way to visually tell one from the other.
Charlie
