My '70 with a 700R4, 1 3/4" spacer to use a factory tailshaft, and a '72 NP205.
Stock trans oil pan.
Stock trans oil pan.
CK5
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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance
- Thread starter Wes Harden
- Start date
Previous intrusion into the front diff, broke and attempted to remove cross pin bolt.
I will get it out, this carrier is being replaced anyway.
This new to me, I don't remember the ring gear being in the way of the cross pin. I haven't been in a Chevy front d44 in a long long time.
I will get it out, this carrier is being replaced anyway.
This new to me, I don't remember the ring gear being in the way of the cross pin. I haven't been in a Chevy front d44 in a long long time.
I did not use the spacer method. I have the Transdapt output shaft, so only the case length is different than the TH350.
Yup.. that's how it is. Gotta pull the wheel end completely down to drop the carrier out. Then pull the ring gear to get the center pin out.
Duh thanks, I forgot no C Clips, I know the spindles and axles gotta come out. Had c clips on my mind.
I don't even need to take that carrier apart not reusing any of it.
I don't even need to take that carrier apart not reusing any of it.
Hopefully you have enough space for the CV joint, but I really have no idea if that pan will clear.
This is the best shot that I can get of the side view.
No, that’s on my stock K10
Then just might work for me.
I have the old pan, and had resigned myself to going back to it. Unless I chop up this pan and weld it up, which would be a long shot.
It will clear.
It's close but as mentioned the shaft is slim, the cv thickness would not clear if it's too long.
I do have some stock shafts but I don't know which is what.
If you have an idea on the length I can check.
And I will give you a good price
I measured yesterday and came up 29.5" full droop. The factory 72 shaft is supposed to 26 and 3/8ths collapsed.
I will check my stash
Little job, install pinion guard on my 14bff. Got second hand so don't know who made it. The bolt holes were just a tad off.
½" drill to each hole gave enough wiggle to get all the new hardware started.
½" drill to each hole gave enough wiggle to get all the new hardware started.
208 and 203 shafts are the same, of that I am sure, can’t speak for a 205…so Wes if you have a 203 shaft, you basically have a 208 shaft.
yeah I have 2 203 shaft. I believe the 71-72 205 shaft is what I need to clear the trans pan. Plus I have yoke front out put and not a flange. This is 72 np205 with 10 spline front output. I was gonna up grade to the 32 fronts and run a flange, but am now thinking I wont have room for that big cv.
Been in a huge funk for a few days. But have gone out into the garage and done something ea day. Some days was just, put crap away, or messing with other hobbies, Today I pulled the front axle down to pulling the shafts.
Dug out my Eaton 913A592 my axle splines match, yay win. Look up that part number on Eaton, they list it as 3.72 and down, look it up on West coast diff and Summit they both list it as 3.92 and up. I am going with 4.88, using SVL 10005314.
So confused.
The axle shaft u joints are bit dry on the stub shaft side, going to need to change those thinking of upgrading. recommendations on u joint type and mfr?
front hubs and bearings looked good, haven't cleaned the bearings but they were wet with grease. I count that a win I have never looked at them since I purchased this truck in 03. Right side had recently let some moisture in grease on hub was tinted orange. Hub nuts where pristine, if you can believe no one has ever used a chisel on the hub nuts.
Dug out my Eaton 913A592 my axle splines match, yay win. Look up that part number on Eaton, they list it as 3.72 and down, look it up on West coast diff and Summit they both list it as 3.92 and up. I am going with 4.88, using SVL 10005314.
So confused.
The axle shaft u joints are bit dry on the stub shaft side, going to need to change those thinking of upgrading. recommendations on u joint type and mfr?
front hubs and bearings looked good, haven't cleaned the bearings but they were wet with grease. I count that a win I have never looked at them since I purchased this truck in 03. Right side had recently let some moisture in grease on hub was tinted orange. Hub nuts where pristine, if you can believe no one has ever used a chisel on the hub nuts.
Hopefully the truck therapy gets you over the funk.
Need some garage time myself. My Bride been in *$nt mode for a week now...
How much that true trac run ya?
How much that true trac run ya?
I bought it before I retired, iirc it was under $400.00 I see the same unit is $600+ now
I got back out in the shop and finished tearing down the front 44. I ordered new axle shaft u joints, stock spicer, 2 spindle seal/bearing kits, and new lower Ball joints, already have uppers.
If you are Doing new springs, and regear, using a case spreader wait to do the springs until after regear.
Don't spread a case more the .015-.020", I still need to pry the chunk out of the housing, just was as much effort.
Have to decipher the pinon marking now.
BOM # ??
If you are Doing new springs, and regear, using a case spreader wait to do the springs until after regear.
Don't spread a case more the .015-.020", I still need to pry the chunk out of the housing, just was as much effort.
Have to decipher the pinon marking now.
BOM # ??
I actually bought a case spreader after my first regear.
My 86 1/2 ton has 3:42 10 bolts, might swap them into the K5 for daily driving. Have a locker for the rear already.
My 86 1/2 ton has 3:42 10 bolts, might swap them into the K5 for daily driving. Have a locker for the rear already.
