If your asking about the guard, it 4 of the cover bolts.
Yeap jack handle on floor. Slid over pinion holder
CK5
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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance
- Thread starter Wes Harden
- Start date
Yeap jack handle on floor. Slid over pinion holder
On tear down I noticed the passenger spindle had some orange grease, not a lot but enough to notice. Figured there had been some small amount of moisture intrusion.
the stub shaft had some gritty feeling u joint caps, began replacing today.
Cleaning the stub shaft and the outer wheel bearings, there is some corrosion.
Wheel bearings no problem I might have or can get easy.
The stub shaft Should I replace it ?
Thoughts on mixing chromoly with alloy ?
really not in the mood to drop a grand on chromoly axle shafts atm.
the stub shaft had some gritty feeling u joint caps, began replacing today.
Cleaning the stub shaft and the outer wheel bearings, there is some corrosion.
Wheel bearings no problem I might have or can get easy.
The stub shaft Should I replace it ?
Thoughts on mixing chromoly with alloy ?
really not in the mood to drop a grand on chromoly axle shafts atm.
I don't think it's a huge concern if you were to get new moly outers and keep the inners as is if that's what you thinking. I would base a lot on how they feel, whether still mostly smooth or pretty rough.
But then aside from cost, I'm always looking for reasons to upgrade.
But then aside from cost, I'm always looking for reasons to upgrade.
It's rough would tear up a seal quickly
44 or 60? I can’t recall
d44
Ok I think I have some good stock 60 stubs but not 44 I don’t think
The outer stub shafts are the same between 44’s and 10 bolts. If budget is a concern for chrome-moly shafts just scrounge up some 10 bolt outer stubs. Much easier to find than the 44 stuff if you don’t want to go chrome-moly.
I might have some shafts I can rob outer from.
I will be getting rcp shafts so no need for the spares I have been holding.
I may call ORD tomorrow, suck it up and buy the whole chromoly kit w/o the super joints
Well National bearings just dropped off my recommendation list
Timkin still good
Timkin still good
For the first time 20 years my burb has a front drive shaft, no more Bluetooth.
Put the stock trans pan back on 1st time I have reused a Lubelocker, looked very good
clearance might still be an issue but it looks like it may work out.
edit: the drive shaft I used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C45EAU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. Because the trans and t case do not belong in this truck. 91 700r4, th350 adapter, and 72 np205, assembled with short output shaft. This seems to be the only drive shaft to give me the clearance I need. Only the future will tell.
Put the stock trans pan back on 1st time I have reused a Lubelocker, looked very good
clearance might still be an issue but it looks like it may work out.
edit: the drive shaft I used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C45EAU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. Because the trans and t case do not belong in this truck. 91 700r4, th350 adapter, and 72 np205, assembled with short output shaft. This seems to be the only drive shaft to give me the clearance I need. Only the future will tell.
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Thailand is better than China or Mexico.
Thailand is an unknown for me. All I remember is the crappy picks and medical clamps at the swap meet being made in Thailand.
The Motive gear stub shafts arrived today.
Through me for a second the World American, but I found them listed as other brands on the Motive Gear web site.
Old VW jug makes a nice press tool
Through me for a second the World American, but I found them listed as other brands on the Motive Gear web site.
Old VW jug makes a nice press tool
It’s a shame that companies get away with verbiage like that - claiming “made in USA but with content made elsewhere “.
I ordered a 2002 Dodge 2500 4x4 Cummins truck back in 2001 and was told that it was gonna be one of the USA made trucks but turned out to be made in Mexico but final assembly was completed in Atlanta, Georgia . All they did was ship those trucks by rail with the beds not affixed to the frame and therefore they could get away without an import tax and claim it had final assembly in the US….such a damn shame !
Assembled the axles today brand new Spicer 5-760x u joints.
put the dust shields on the new stub shafts. Junk pile comes through again.
Put new spindle bearings in and the spindles into the knuckles.
I thought since the new Bjs had grease zerk holes I put 90 zerks in........ well don't bother they hit. Fill the joint with grease and capped it.
Waiting on couple of parts to finish the axle and drive shaft. Then I'll lower it down with front axle on bodystands, to help me choose the stock pitman arm and raised steer arm, or drop pitman and stock steer arm.
put the dust shields on the new stub shafts. Junk pile comes through again.
Put new spindle bearings in and the spindles into the knuckles.
I thought since the new Bjs had grease zerk holes I put 90 zerks in........ well don't bother they hit. Fill the joint with grease and capped it.
Waiting on couple of parts to finish the axle and drive shaft. Then I'll lower it down with front axle on bodystands, to help me choose the stock pitman arm and raised steer arm, or drop pitman and stock steer arm.
I always dislike that about the uppers.
That's what I was going to say. Probably the Timken USA assembly is to put that sticker on the box
Only couple hours in shop spent most of it cleaning wheel hubs and baking plates.
Filled the diff 80w90 gl5, put the ORD kevlar tie rod cups on and installed the tie rod. Pumped out all old dirty grease while I was at it.
Orange grease on pass inner bearing
Filled the diff 80w90 gl5, put the ORD kevlar tie rod cups on and installed the tie rod. Pumped out all old dirty grease while I was at it.
Orange grease on pass inner bearing
