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what do you guys think of this efi kit?

I laugh whenever people just say... oh slap an LS in it... you can find them for $1k... it's that simple.

Well you still have to redo motor mounts, redo exhaust, get new radiator hoses, wire in the harness, will have to redo the fuel lines, and change fuel pumps, new air intake, often have to adapt different throttle cables etc etc.

LS swaps will nickel and dime you as much as any other motor swap. It's definitely about as simple of a modern engine swap as anything, but still takes some re-engineering. It's all a decision about time, effort, money, and what outcome you get from the change.

For a mild/stock motor, to get to run better on angle, and over mountain passes, this to me seems like a no brainer. Will it run as perfect as possible, max power, max efficiency, and smooth as glass? No... but anyone who would be expecting that would be having unrealistic expectations.
 
Tell him to make a build thread.

Martin

It would be me that does the build thread if that happens, but it's already set up good for a hunting rig (pic below), and we really just want to do this FI setup, clean up the interior....and I was thinking MAYBE trying to find some 3/4 ton axles with a 14bff/8lug10bolt or 8lugd44 that has matching 4.10 gears (and I'm almost certain it has 3.73 gears right now). It's an 84 3/4 ton with a 14bsf in the rear and a carb'd 350 in it that has (from what we know, have not taken possession of it yet) a simple rebuild on it. So for something like this, a kit like these are perfect. We just want it to run good as we are driving in the mountains going hunting....we don't need anything else on a truck like that

 
Buddy of mine just bought the 1200hp Go EFI 8 FiTech unit for his 521 BBF. If it were me I'd bump up to the 600for an extra $200, so if you ever wanna upgrade some day.
 
I'm also looking into this FI system for when I swap in my 454. After putting tuned port injection on my 350 I don't think I'll ever go backwards to a carb, at least if I can help it. According to the "desktop dyno" numbers that Hoss7979 gave me I should be making over 400hp, but I don't know if I want to limit myself with their 600hp setup or just go to their 800hp setup for any other upgrades for the future. Their 800hp unit doesn't have a minimum HP rating like their 600hp kit does.
 
I'm also looking into this FI system for when I swap in my 454. After putting tuned port injection on my 350 I don't think I'll ever go backwards to a carb, at least if I can help it. According to the "desktop dyno" numbers that Hoss7979 gave me I should be making over 400hp, but I don't know if I want to limit myself with their 600hp setup or just go to their 800hp setup for any other upgrades for the future. Their 800hp unit doesn't have a minimum HP rating like their 600hp kit does.

The only downside to the 800 kit is it doesn't control timing. I'm not sure how crucial that minimum HP rating is as I've seen the unit installed on a vw bug and a Studebaker, which don't have much beans.
 
The only downside to the 800 kit is it doesn't control timing. I'm not sure how crucial that minimum HP rating is as I've seen the unit installed on a vw bug and a Studebaker, which don't have much beans.

Generally the problem at least used to be that the injectors get "lazy" when trying to control too much injector on too little motor...they can't deliver a small enough amount of fuel per injector pulse. I suppose you could say it's similar to what they say about too large a carb on too small an engine. New injectors might be better at this sort of control however, I'm not sure what has been changed.
 
Generally the problem at least used to be that the injectors get "lazy" when trying to control too much injector on too little motor...they can't deliver a small enough amount of fuel per injector pulse. I suppose you could say it's similar to what they say about too large a carb on too small an engine. New injectors might be better at this sort of control however, I'm not sure what has been changed.

Yeah thats what i was thinking. On the opposite scale i think youd run out fuel on the top end with say a motor making 700 hp on a 600hp designed kit.
 
I'll be curious how you deal with the fuel delivery. That seems like the biggest PITA to me. It was annoying with GM TBI, but you can still use hoses and clamps for that. Are you doing the lift pump thing, or high pressure from the tank?
 
I'll be curious how you deal with the fuel delivery. That seems like the biggest PITA to me. It was annoying with GM TBI, but you can still use hoses and clamps for that. Are you doing the lift pump thing, or high pressure from the tank?

Theres a few ways to supply fuel. If you have a Tbi tank then you'll cut the little barb portion off the fuel sender tubes and flare them for 6an fittings. Kay86 started a thread recently on doing this to a tank to achieve the pressure needed for an gen 3 motor...same concept here because we both need 60psi. The fuel pump itself is replaced with one that will make such pressure and you're good to go.

Fitech recommends using two filters inline. One is 100 micron and then 30 if I remember right. Those would have to be after the fuel pump in this situation.

I'll get the fuel line and fittings from summit...it's 50 bucks for 15 feet of 6an. Plus the little fittings.
 
Sorry for the late reply....
I agree with most everything that has been said here. A simple bolt on FI for stock/mild motors is what I'm after, just to get me out of the 80's fuel delivery technology. I'm not looking for all out performance, just a decently reliable plug and play system that I don't have to learn too much about. I think the Fitech and Holley Sniper will cater to that side of the market and reasonable price. I'm a little behind in my re-build, but it is definitely on my list. I already have the funds set aside...I just want to purchase this on the same month I do the actual install....don't want it sitting on my garage bench and using up warranty time.
Looking forward to your install Mr. WTLDBG!
 
Actually, on my TBI setup I got a 1990 sender and it has Saginaw fittings which I adapted to AN. I went from there to Summit push-lock (or something like that) which was pretty slick until some threads surfaced pointing out that the push-lock hose was ambiguous with respect to compatibility with fuel. I still have some of it near the tank and haven't had a problem, but it's at the back of my mind. Can you link to the the hose you are talking about?

The thing I'd have to change is that I hooked into the factory steel on the frame using hose clamps, which I'm not sure is legit at 60 PSI. Do people just run hose all the way along the frame, with cable ties, or what?
 
Actually, on my TBI setup I got a 1990 sender and it has Saginaw fittings which I adapted to AN. I went from there to Summit push-lock (or something like that) which was pretty slick until some threads surfaced pointing out that the push-lock hose was ambiguous with respect to compatibility with fuel. I still have some of it near the tank and haven't had a problem, but it's at the back of my mind. Can you link to the the hose you are talking about?

The thing I'd have to change is that I hooked into the factory steel on the frame using hose clamps, which I'm not sure is legit at 60 PSI. Do people just run hose all the way along the frame, with cable ties, or what?

Yeah, that's one way to do it. That's what I just did on my crew cab (what @wetoolowdingbangow was referring to above). I have found there were a couple different versions of TBI lines at the tank. When I did my TBI swap on my blazer, I stole the fuel tank and lines out of an 89 blazer and those had hard lines with threaded connections at the tank. When I went to take the fuel pumps out of my 89 crew cab, they were just rubber hoses all the way to the sender with hose clamps...I actually didn't know they made different TBI style fuel line connections at the tank until then.

So if you have the threaded connections, you can just get AN adapters to hook to those and then run your AN flexible braded hose all the way to the Fitech unit. Or if you have the other style, you could do something like what was referenced above ( if you look in my build thread for my crew cab you can see some pics of that, link in signature). The hose is a little more expensive, but after working with it now, I think it's totally worth it, just my $0.02
 
Got the 600hp kit and just installed it. Started up first try. It's still learning as I've only put a couple miles on it. Install was pretty easy and straight forward. I already had the inline fuel pump and o2 bung so everything else was simple.

-Jacob

Damn you beat me! If anything fires up on the first try it's always good.
 
My TBI conversion was like that. Installed everything, turned the key, truck ran. Still runs. Hasn't died at a stop light for no apparent reason since (the carb used to do that just to piss me off.)

-- A
 
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