Yeah the compressor turns easily, I can hear it suck and push. I sealed and boxed it up. If the four seasons new comp I just installed fails then this oem GM gets a new clutch and goes back in, I saved the old condenser to since no debris.
CK5
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White Elephant 01 8.1 burb.
- Thread starter Wes Harden
- Start date
This 8.1 has been noisy ticky on cold start up, esp if has been sitting a few days. Commonly 20 to 40 seconds. I just added a pint of Mavel mystery oil to the crank case. Hasn't been started since last Saturday. Fired right up, listening with hood open the ticking was there as expected but it went away fast maybe 10-15 seconds. We'll see what the next cold start does in a day or two.
I have the ticking too and even when warmed up it ticks at idle.
It goes away at 900 rpm and above
Mine would get as least quiet enough I can't hear in cab. Or with hood down. Been awhile since I listened with hood up and don't recall hearing. I never liked how long it took to go away. Did a little internet sluthing and Marvel Myst oil was highly praised. One oil site said use 20% at every oil change. I am @8% maybe a little more the oil level was a bit low.
You taking this to Moab?
Not this one. I'm taking the 77 k20 burb
Thought maybe you were towing the burb.
Towing an enclosed trailer, with extra junk for possibilities. Picking up a nv4500 from Capt Ron for K5devil
Got my Hptunners MVPi3 today and 2 credits, have installed the VCM software, sync'd device. Hope fully get some time to play with it on the burb tomorrow.
any tips tricks do's or do not do are great appreciated
any tips tricks do's or do not do are great appreciated
Turn the boost up!
Well you need to research engine torque management and transmission torque management and see how far you want to go.
IMO, letting performance enrichment actually work is a no-brainer. You can Google how to do that. Otherwise, all of the basic tuning principles apply. You have to decide how much to put into it. It can be quite time consuming.
IMO, letting performance enrichment actually work is a no-brainer. You can Google how to do that. Otherwise, all of the basic tuning principles apply. You have to decide how much to put into it. It can be quite time consuming.
Also, random advice.
- read off the stock calibration before you do anything and make sure you can read it. This can save you if something gets hosed later and you know what calibration was in there to begin with.
-do your first practice writes with the vehicle parked inside. If something goes wrong you can end up with a non-running vehicle for a bit.
-before trying to improve the tune, do stuff to confirm your MAP and MAF are working perfect.
Will you have a wideband, or using stock O2s only?
This is all standard tuning stuff, but you're a very helpful member here.
- read off the stock calibration before you do anything and make sure you can read it. This can save you if something gets hosed later and you know what calibration was in there to begin with.
-do your first practice writes with the vehicle parked inside. If something goes wrong you can end up with a non-running vehicle for a bit.
-before trying to improve the tune, do stuff to confirm your MAP and MAF are working perfect.
Will you have a wideband, or using stock O2s only?
This is all standard tuning stuff, but you're a very helpful member here.
So tuning is new to me. are wide band o2's plug and play with oem loom ? I planned on saving a oem calibration. I will do the google fu on the torque management. My goal would be efficiency, longevity, and eliminate systems reducing the efficiency. Also turn off evap monitor.
Goat rope garage on YouTube. Very easy to follow and understand videos.
Goat Rope is a great resource. Go to his channel and find the Gen 3 playlist of videos.
Widebands aren't necessary exactly but it's something you would have to weld in a new O2 bung. For your purposes I think you can skip it for now until you get your feet wet with the tuning.
Wide band is not plug-n-play that I know of, but that could be because we have installed an extra bung as to not disturb the OEM ones. (In 2 trucks)
I don't know enough to tell you anything as my son has been researching and the actual program changes. Nothing much to speak of yet, anyway.
I don't know enough to tell you anything as my son has been researching and the actual program changes. Nothing much to speak of yet, anyway.
For the 8.1 I'd turn off the burst knock retard. But like others have said work with turning down torque management or turning it off completely. Those two items alone will wake up the 8.1 without doing much else. It's crazy how much GM really held the engine back with those. However, the 4L80e might need a little TM to keep it living.
What is TM ?
Thinking now the extra interface cable is for sensors like wide band
