Desert Rat
Fetch the comfy chair
Will it fit under the hood? There is a big thread somewhere on the ultimate master cylinder and some folks who have tried to go with a newer model MC have ended up having clearance issues.
CK5
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who's got eldorado calipers on 14BFF? who doesn't?
- Thread starter Vee
- Start date
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I did some looking around at mine and found that the master cylinder was dry on the rear lines. I may have a leak or the shop I paid to bleed them a couple years ago didn't do a great job.
After spending most of the day bleeding and adjusting, the parking brake just barely holds now. It seems that the hydraulic portion of the system does affect the ebrake portion at least a little. I have to hold the pedal down to get the ebrake to work ok.
After spending most of the day bleeding and adjusting, the parking brake just barely holds now. It seems that the hydraulic portion of the system does affect the ebrake portion at least a little. I have to hold the pedal down to get the ebrake to work ok.
I think it will fit, there is no motor in mine, so I can climb in with the hood down. I can put a 2x4 on top of the old one so I hope it will fit. Hope to get a new one soon, for my mock build before I take it all apart for powdercoating.
Here is the link on the master cylinder. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174038&highlight=master+cylinder
That's pretty normal. Most parking brake systems seem to be built with the thought that you'll apply the brake as you apply the parking brake.
E-brake is COMPLETELY independent of the hydraulic system so the hydraulics have no effect on the e-brakes function.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
True, but my lines were dry and I suspect the brakes pads were not self adjusting any longer. Since the pads were farther away from the rotor, the ebrake mechanism apparently didn't have enough throw to clamp as well. At least thats my best theory on why the ebrake works after bleeding the system. I'll be testing that theory here soon though.
The e-brake will only "self" adjust if you use the e-brake. If you do not use the e-brake as the pads wear from normal use they will become farther and farther away from the rotor making your pedal travel before getting a good brake alot closer to the floor.
On my 91 there is no self ajusting system on the ebrake. You have to ajust it with nut on the end of the primary cable.
I have a compete set of rebuilt calipers if you are interested send me a PM.
I have a compete set of rebuilt calipers if you are interested send me a PM.
We are talking about the caliper "self" adjusting when using the e-brake kinda like how a drum brake is supposed to self adjust the shoes when hitting the brakes in reverse.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I sprung a leak in one of the braided flex lines back there which explains my fluid loss. I have a feeling that the leak prevents the calipers from clamping tight enough to let the ebrake do it's job. I'm not so sure the ebrake is better after bleeding the lines yesterday. It's right one the edge of not working again and I could have just got lucky yesterday when it did barely work.
That is not possible. I've had these calipers apart before and by design the hydraulic portion has no bearing on how the mechanical portion works. If you need/want help getting these to work good then come on over sometime and we'll play with it.
I'm still confused, Scott.
If in relation to drums, IE the little lever that operates to move the geared wheele when you use the Ebrake, where is that type of function on the Eldo calipers.
I'm under the assumption that when the pads ware down the caliper just closes down around the disc under normal use, IE pushing the brake pedal and there is no self adjuster for that. I have to screw a nut down the cable to adjust the ebrake.
So, my confusion is, by saying self adjusting are you talking about how the caliper just keeps closing in on the disc while normal ware is happening?
If that is the case, I'm also under the assumption that you must adjust this nut on the primary cable to maintain an operational ebrake.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
No, I believe the ebrake is supposed to operate like a ratchet so the piston twists as it gets used and keeps the pads close the rotor. That's why it needs to be used to stay adjusted. Once the pads have worn out, you need to remove the caliper and screw the piston back in so the new thicker pads will fit.
I've seen that on some toyota calipers but I'm not sure if that's how the eldos work. If so, I've been assuming wrong. I thought they were like most other calipers and just went in and out. If that is not the case, then I might need to relook at my adjustment procedures.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Hmm, it's possible I'm confusing them with my other vehicles since I actually haven't taken apart the eldorado calipers like Scott has. I just assumed they were the same. We'll see...
I can not tell in this photo, but you may be correct.
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=200819
If you look on this page there is a photo of an exploded eldo caliper. It has a shaft, but I'm not sure it is threaded.
The point is, if it is threaded, then my adjustment process really needs to be looked at. Prior to adjusting the nut on the cable you should use the ebrake a few times to make sure the piston fully deployed before adjusting the nut. I'll have to open the caddie manual the next time I'm at Napas and read the adjustment procedure.
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=200819
If you look on this page there is a photo of an exploded eldo caliper. It has a shaft, but I'm not sure it is threaded.
The point is, if it is threaded, then my adjustment process really needs to be looked at. Prior to adjusting the nut on the cable you should use the ebrake a few times to make sure the piston fully deployed before adjusting the nut. I'll have to open the caddie manual the next time I'm at Napas and read the adjustment procedure.
Caddy calipers require the piston to be rotated in order to retract the piston when changing pads. The piston is activated by the e-brake lever via a "worm gear" design. I'll see if i can find a pic of what the assembly looks like apart. I'm pretty sure i threw away the seville/fleetwood calipers i had laying around otherwise i would take one apart and lay the pieces out for you to see (The only difference between the Seville/Fleetwood calipers versus the Eldo calipers is the piston thickness).
EDIT: I can't find any pics online so if i have time tomorrow i may hit the junk yard and buy a caliper and tear it apart and take some pics to post so everyone can see how they work. This will be an eye opener for alot of people i am sure. I tore into these calipers YEARS ago when i rebuilt a pair or two of them. Some parts can no longer be had though and i had to make a couple parts on one set i rebuilt.
EDIT: I can't find any pics online so if i have time tomorrow i may hit the junk yard and buy a caliper and tear it apart and take some pics to post so everyone can see how they work. This will be an eye opener for alot of people i am sure. I tore into these calipers YEARS ago when i rebuilt a pair or two of them. Some parts can no longer be had though and i had to make a couple parts on one set i rebuilt.
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I've never been able to do that - none of the tools available on common autoparts stores fit either of my two pairs of calipers , and I haven't been successful to use pliers as described in the ClassicBroncos article.
However, if you take the lever off, you can simply press the piston in, just make sure the lever base can rotate freely.
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