Thanks, I'll get those set as well.Generally an HEI should be .045 gap. I doubt there would be a noticable difference from opening them up, but the wider gap should promote a better burn.
Thanks, I'll get those set as well.Generally an HEI should be .045 gap. I doubt there would be a noticable difference from opening them up, but the wider gap should promote a better burn.
I know his gearing isnt the best, but I ran with 35s, 3.73s, a built 350 and a 700r4 and it did not ping no matter what. Not saying gearing isnt important, just saying even while lugging around, it shouldnt ping like that.
Now that he has fixed part of his timing issue with the new weights and such, it proves it to be a timing/fuel problem, and not a gearing problem. Should he get better gears, well thats a simple yes, but it can poop around with his current gears and be just fine. I am thinking your vac advance is going to high and creating to much total timing. Check the numbers on it like suggested and see whats the up in up. After you get timing locked down and its right, then adjust your carb for your motor. Its not exactly rocket surgery, you just need a vacuum gauge and a good ear. You wont get it perfect without a wideband O2, but a vacuum gauge will get it close enough, and better than the broad spectrum tuning it comes with. Probably pick up some gas mileage as well.
If I decide to keep this engine I will absolutely go fuel injection in some fashion for a whole host of reasons. I am DONE with carbs if I can avoid it.I think without a wideband carb tuning is pretty much by guess and by golly. Of course I find those carbs only slightly better than a door stop. I would swap on a TBI before wasting much time. Still a Dyno tune usually works wonders.
Already talking to Z about his stuff, but I'll keep you in mind. thanks!I will ship you a new DUI dizzy, EZ EFI for MPFI and a TPI intake. PM for price.
Damn you Greg!!!Do you think the solution might be cookie-related?
Just curious.....
-G

Took it out for a bit longer test drive last night. First time I've ever been able to cruise in 5th gear at 70mph and maintain speed, so already massive improvement.If I recall right that is a 14 degree can. So I believe that gets you 48 degrees at max cruising. See what it does now. There are adjustable ones.

ok, got it all timed up.
3k rpm without vacuum hooked up: 34*
3k rpm with vacuum hooked up: 48*
600 rpm idle no vacuum: 24*
Does all that look right?
yes, it definitely seems stronger so we're on the right track there. If I have time I'm going to try towing something this weekend to see how that feels.Yes. It may seem like a lot but timing helps bottom end. See how it runs now. I would actually try it manifold and ported to see if one is better and helps pinging. Does it seem stronger?
I would go at least 4.56s.
I didn't check that but I will tomorrow. I'm assuming I was at full advance at 3k, but worth a check.what does timing do at 4k and 5k no vacuum?
yes, it definitely seems stronger so we're on the right track there. If I have time I'm going to try towing something this weekend to see how that feels.
I was planning on 4.56s for sure, just not positive how I'm going to do it. I could swap them into my current 1/2 ton axles relatively cheap or I could by 1 ton stuff that already has 4.56 gears. That's the more expensive way but trying to decide if that is the long term answer.
I didn't check that but I will tomorrow. I'm assuming I was at full advance at 3k, but worth a check.
what does timing do at 4k and 5k no vacuum?