CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

why does my 383 suck? >> now a crack??

Generally an HEI should be .045 gap. I doubt there would be a noticable difference from opening them up, but the wider gap should promote a better burn.
Thanks, I'll get those set as well.
 
GM was all over the place on gap, from .035 to .080" as I recall, but eventually settled on .035" AFAIK for every small block.

Doesn't make a hill of beans difference in my experience, at least in a non-race application.
 
I know his gearing isnt the best, but I ran with 35s, 3.73s, a built 350 and a 700r4 and it did not ping no matter what. Not saying gearing isnt important, just saying even while lugging around, it shouldnt ping like that.

Now that he has fixed part of his timing issue with the new weights and such, it proves it to be a timing/fuel problem, and not a gearing problem. Should he get better gears, well thats a simple yes, but it can poop around with his current gears and be just fine. I am thinking your vac advance is going to high and creating to much total timing. Check the numbers on it like suggested and see whats the up in up. After you get timing locked down and its right, then adjust your carb for your motor. Its not exactly rocket surgery, you just need a vacuum gauge and a good ear. You wont get it perfect without a wideband O2, but a vacuum gauge will get it close enough, and better than the broad spectrum tuning it comes with. Probably pick up some gas mileage as well.

I think without a wideband carb tuning is pretty much by guess and by golly. Of course I find those carbs only slightly better than a door stop. I would swap on a TBI before wasting much time. Still a Dyno tune usually works wonders.
 
I think without a wideband carb tuning is pretty much by guess and by golly. Of course I find those carbs only slightly better than a door stop. I would swap on a TBI before wasting much time. Still a Dyno tune usually works wonders.
If I decide to keep this engine I will absolutely go fuel injection in some fashion for a whole host of reasons. I am DONE with carbs if I can avoid it.

That said, in the mean time I'd like this one to run as good as possible.
 
I will ship you a new DUI dizzy, EZ EFI for MPFI and a TPI intake. PM for price.
 
vacuum canister numbers:
Dist_vac_canister.jpg

in case it's hard to read: 604 14
 
If I recall right that is a 14 degree can. So I believe that gets you 48 degrees at max cruising. See what it does now. There are adjustable ones.
 
Do you think the solution might be cookie-related?

Just curious.....




-G
 
If I recall right that is a 14 degree can. So I believe that gets you 48 degrees at max cruising. See what it does now. There are adjustable ones.
Took it out for a bit longer test drive last night. First time I've ever been able to cruise in 5th gear at 70mph and maintain speed, so already massive improvement.

I did go up a section of freeway that was 6-7% grade and giving it enough gas to maintain speed did result in some pinging, but not horrible. Shifted into 4th and it smoothed back out.

All of this was without towing anything though, so I'm still uncertain if we're there yet.

Oh, and when I got back I realized I still hadn't connected the vacuum line. Have to test again with that hooked up. :rolleyes:
 
ok, got it all timed up.
3k rpm without vacuum hooked up: 34*
3k rpm with vacuum hooked up: 48*
600 rpm idle no vacuum: 24*

Does all that look right?
 
Yes. It may seem like a lot but timing helps bottom end. See how it runs now. I would actually try it manifold and ported to see if one is better and helps pinging. Does it seem stronger? We have talked about a lot of mods but if it was me I would gear before I did anything. Let me put it this way. The 84 K10 I built for my cousin had 3.08s with a 700. It was a dog with a 305. Swapped to 4.10 and it was a rocket. Felt like 50hp and would pull OD without a problem. After the 350 swap it was better but much less than the gear swap. The MPG was the same or slightly better after just because it wasn't IN OUT IN OUT. I would go at least 4.56s.
 
Yes. It may seem like a lot but timing helps bottom end. See how it runs now. I would actually try it manifold and ported to see if one is better and helps pinging. Does it seem stronger?

I would go at least 4.56s.
yes, it definitely seems stronger so we're on the right track there. If I have time I'm going to try towing something this weekend to see how that feels.

I was planning on 4.56s for sure, just not positive how I'm going to do it. I could swap them into my current 1/2 ton axles relatively cheap or I could by 1 ton stuff that already has 4.56 gears. That's the more expensive way but trying to decide if that is the long term answer.

what does timing do at 4k and 5k no vacuum?
I didn't check that but I will tomorrow. I'm assuming I was at full advance at 3k, but worth a check.
 
yes, it definitely seems stronger so we're on the right track there. If I have time I'm going to try towing something this weekend to see how that feels.

I was planning on 4.56s for sure, just not positive how I'm going to do it. I could swap them into my current 1/2 ton axles relatively cheap or I could by 1 ton stuff that already has 4.56 gears. That's the more expensive way but trying to decide if that is the long term answer.


I didn't check that but I will tomorrow. I'm assuming I was at full advance at 3k, but worth a check.

You can guess what my answer would be on the way to gear it. I have spent alot to have 1/2 tons geared to 4.10s and now own 3 dana 60Fs.
 
what does timing do at 4k and 5k no vacuum?

it "should" be what he set it at 3k rpm with vacuum advance disconnected. the vacumm advance helps get you better fuel milage at cruising rpms and as you get under a heavy load the vacuum goes away and the timing retards so you dont get detonation. unless you have some really heavy springs on the mechanical advance all mechanical timing should be "in" at or before 3k rpms.
 
I may be wrong but the way I set it up is 8* initial and 32-36 total @3000 rpm without vacuum line hooked up.

24* at idle is way way too much. that will cause your pinging issues for sure. especially at lower rpms like your talking about.

for me this has always worked for me. set up like this I didn't even have pinging in my 10 to 1 compression small block I had in my old truck, but I did have to run premium.
 
Top Bottom