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why does my 383 suck? >> now a crack??

what does timing do at 4k and 5k no vacuum?
So, I guess that was a good check. Revved it up from 3k to 4k and the timing held steady at 34* for a few hundred rpms, but started to climb and by 4k it was at 40*.

So what does that tell me? :dunno:

One more thing the plug looked pretty white to me. I think its running a little lean. that can also cause pinging
I adjusted the screws and ended up turning them out a turn or so each to get the best idle. Does that mean it was lean?
 
So, I guess that was a good check. Revved it up from 3k to 4k and the timing held steady at 34* for a few hundred rpms, but started to climb and by 4k it was at 40*.

So what does that tell me? :dunno:


I adjusted the screws and ended up turning them out a turn or so each to get the best idle. Does that mean it was lean?

set max timing to 34, then mess with the springs to get max in a little sooner.
 
So, I guess that was a good check. Revved it up from 3k to 4k and the timing held steady at 34* for a few hundred rpms, but started to climb and by 4k it was at 40*.

So what does that tell me? :dunno:

It means you need to turn it down like 4 degrees


I adjusted the screws and ended up turning them out a turn or so each to get the best idle. Does that mean it was lean?

Idle mixture shouldn't change the other circuits. So lean at idle but maybe not at other speeds
 
about 10 years ago I couldn't get my distributer right so I took it to the local speed shop and they put it on a machine and set it up correctly and I think it was like $60 or so. maybe call around a little and see if anyone does it in your area.
 
So, I guess that was a good check. Revved it up from 3k to 4k and the timing held steady at 34* for a few hundred rpms, but started to climb and by 4k it was at 40*.

So what does that tell me? :dunno:


I adjusted the screws and ended up turning them out a turn or so each to get the best idle. Does that mean it was lean?

Also, make sure all the advance stuff is nice and free, and returns positively.

I have seen stock hei distributors that wont be all in till 5k.
 
So, I guess that was a good check. Revved it up from 3k to 4k and the timing held steady at 34* for a few hundred rpms, but started to climb and by 4k it was at 40*.

So what does that tell me? :dunno:


I adjusted the screws and ended up turning them out a turn or so each to get the best idle. Does that mean it was lean?

That your springs are too heavy...
 
oh, I missed the whole carb thing.. edelcrap right? man them carbs suck.. :haha: :whistle:

but anyway, most air/fuel screw adjustments are fine around 2 turns out or so...

big mythbust... they really don't mean d*ck.. :whistle: it's an idle circuit, that's all... it doesn't apply to 96.7% of driving, contrary to what many assume.....
 
oh, I missed the whole carb thing.. edelcrap right? man them carbs suck.. :haha: :whistle:

but anyway, most air/fuel screw adjustments are fine around 2 turns out or so...

big mythbust... they really don't mean d*ck.. :whistle: it's an idle circuit, that's all... it doesn't apply to 96.7% of driving, contrary to what many assume.....
yeah, most everything I read about adjusting them just talked about the idle screws and I kept thinking "idle is fine, but what about the rest of it?". :confused:

I guess my next question is then how do I know if I'm running rich or lean at cruising speed?
 
plug reading.. lot's of plug reading.. rod's and jet's for the rest of the rpm range...


which edelcrap is it again?
 
oh, and if ya wanna get fancy and spend some money, a wideband O2 and stoichometer will tell ya everything...
 
Honestly the tuning kit is enough I would just buy a TBI setup from the junk yard. Serious as a heart attack.
 
I would just buy a TBI setup from the junk yard. Serious as a heart attack.
I'm going to keep my eyes open for something. There are a couple of decent JYs around here that might have that. If I did find a TBI on a truck, what all do I need to grab to make it work?

I found a shop with a chassis dyno real close to here. They said $150 for 3 wide band passes or $495 for a full day of dyno and tuning.
 
3 pulls sucks, ask what hours cost.

Tbi you would need. Tbi, dist, harness, ecm, esc, temp sensor, map and knock sensors.
 
I pulled off the med spring and now have 2 light springs on it. It's all in by about 2800 and set at 34*. Initial is now 18*. I didn't have time to test drive it and see how that was.

Tbi you would need. Tbi, dist, harness, ecm, esc, temp sensor, map and knock sensors.
If I went that route I'd have to see how cheaply I could get it done. I just turned down Z's TPI setup because I can't justify the cost just to get FI.
 
I'm going to keep my eyes open for something. There are a couple of decent JYs around here that might have that. If I did find a TBI on a truck, what all do I need to grab to make it work?

I found a shop with a chassis dyno real close to here. They said $150 for 3 wide band passes or $495 for a full day of dyno and tuning.


here's everything you every wanted to know about TBI'ing a rig...spent weeks there when I joined CK5...clickity :waytogo:
 
You can do a TBI swap for damn near nothing if you are willing to do the work. There are TBI trucks being crushed every day.

Martin
 
Just wanted to say thank you to everyone that helped with my timing issues. I finally had a chance to load up the trailer and try pulling it up a decent hill and the pinging issues are finally gone.
I'm sure that I'm not getting the full potential out of the motor yet, but at least it's no longer a dog that I feel like I have to baby.

I have to deal with an oil leak next... oh goodie.
 
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