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Wiring Tips & Tricks

nvrenuf

nvrenuf

Holy crap, it's running!
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I need to step up my game and fix some under dash shortcuts, probably add a distribution block and rewire stuff with non insulated connectors with heat shrink.

I’m looking at this distribution block.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6way-12-24...use-Holder-Box-Block-Panel-Board/233154221688

Suggestions for good crimping pliers?

Good source(s) for quality parts?

Any examples of homemade wiring panels? How is it mounted?
 
good crimpers = old school T&B stuff .

not my rusty tools just pics of the style .

i use these for general stuff .
s-l1600.jpg


then these for BIG STUFF
s-l1600.jpg


then these for heat shrink stuff . there designed to NOT break the heat shrink material .
th
 
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Once I get a distribution block, where is the best place to pull a switched ignition hot source without having to splice in to a wire? I'm not looking to power anything crazy, just junk like the choke, voltmeter, MSD, etc
 
There is a ignition port on the fuseblock, run a relay off of it and feed a distribution block to power your accessories. The relay will have 4 wires usually, load in, load out to dist. Block, coil hot from ign feed on fuse panel, and coil neg. Hope that helps.
 
onetonbb74 said:
There is a ignition port on the fuseblock, run a relay off of it and feed a distribution block to power your accessories. The relay will have 4 wires usually, load in, load out to dist. Block, coil hot from ign feed on fuse panel, and coil neg. Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
That’s what I did. Looking forward to having easy to access 12v switched power.
 
Blue sea comes recommended often, and if I had a better connection I'd check out what they offer.

I'm pretty happy with the way the Eaton Bussman setups are made.

I do not like being limited to ignition only power...if I need battery 12v, I dont want to run yet another panel. I also dont want more components tied to the panel (relays) randomly about. At some point things are going to fail, being able to easily test/swap/replace makes sense IMO.

Those are 35A relays, one of which is faux mounted to the panel. Mini fuses and relays save space.

full
 
dyeager535 said:
Blue sea comes recommended often, and if I had a better connection I'd check out what they offer.

I'm pretty happy with the way the Eaton Bussman setups are made.

I do not like being limited to ignition only power...if I need battery 12v, I dont want to run yet another panel. I also dont want more components tied to the panel (relays) randomly about. At some point things are going to fail, being able to easily test/swap/replace makes sense IMO.

Those are 35A relays, one of which is faux mounted to the panel. Mini fuses and relays save space.

full
Click to expand...

I agree with that. So I did a 6 fuse/relay box. And I used relay #1 to feed my ignition buss bar. Because some of the relays I want as ignition only. So I can feed the bar with one relay, and use that bar to feed other relays as needed.
I also got rid of a bunch of inline spliced fuses all over the map.

E0A9A78E-2D0E-4824-AA3E-711643212105.jpeg

C0619CE4-BA52-4364-A911-EB83320D24DC.jpeg
 
BTW, Waytek has a pretty good selection of stuff.

And I'm a firm believer in crimp terminals that lock into the housing/connectors. OEM style that crimps the wire and at least grips the wire jacket. While I've had ok luck running non-positive locking electrical stuff on the truck (backup camera that uses RCA :surepal:) I wouldn't trust it with anything that could leave me stranded if it comes loose.
 
What is the best way to tap in to a wire without using a scotchlok?

If I were to strip the main wire / solder on the tap lead and then put heat shrink over it, how do you make the mouth of the "Y" water tight?
 
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