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Wiring Tips & Tricks
- Thread starter nvrenuf
- Start date
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Me too.That’s the fuse box I bought.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Still looking for what I want for a junction block. Similar to what @Smokinthehippies did. I want one power wire to the battery and then a mounted junction block to run the blue sea systems block.
Maybe that's not necessary, but I think it would be a clean look. One for pos and one for neg.
Maybe that's not necessary, but I think it would be a clean look. One for pos and one for neg.
I’m thinking about pulling my battery wire from the junction block on the firewall.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I dislike that little junction block. I would just like to do away with it.
If you do that, what gauge of wire is feeding that? Is it still the factory 10 gauge? ( I believe that's what is in my '90) Maybe bump it up to 8 ga. ?
Good point, I probably do need to up the wire size.
K5chevyLQ4
Registered Member
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- Jan 15, 2018
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I really like that blue sea fuse block. Here’s my relay and fuse bank I put together. Mostly eBay special parts. I have a 6ga wire feeding the main fuse panel directly from the battery. The upper 4-fuse panel is ignition hot. Been working flawlessly so far.
If you get the right panel, you can run relay(s) on the panel itself, which just cleans everything up.
I'd be careful dispensing with the firewall junction block, the fusible links that feed it are important. (Having said that I ran a 10G + wire directly from my battery to an older style fuse panel, and I need to fix that)
Are there any fusible links out there (new) that are economical and available in a variety of wire gauge? Maxi fuses seem all the rage nowadays, but unless rewiring the whole vehicle, I prefer the unobtrusive fusible links.
Every time this topic comes up it tempts me to get a good aftermarket panel and redo the whole electrical system so there was room for everything on the one panel.
I'd be careful dispensing with the firewall junction block, the fusible links that feed it are important. (Having said that I ran a 10G + wire directly from my battery to an older style fuse panel, and I need to fix that)
Are there any fusible links out there (new) that are economical and available in a variety of wire gauge? Maxi fuses seem all the rage nowadays, but unless rewiring the whole vehicle, I prefer the unobtrusive fusible links.
Every time this topic comes up it tempts me to get a good aftermarket panel and redo the whole electrical system so there was room for everything on the one panel.
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I just hate fusible links because there’s no quick easy way to determine if it’s fried without a test light and knowing which wire inside a bundle goes to what.
with the smart fuses, when they pop they glow a little led. Don’t get much easier than that.
True, but how often do you pop them? They really only should be for catastrophic screwups lol.
Stumbled upon the Smartfuse by Fraron, running $170 euro, not what you meant though I assume https://www.fraron.de/en/power-inve...ramable-fuse-with-battery-protect/a-85859387/
Seems petty cool, I could see bolting that in right where the junction block is. Could even run a mini starter through that.
Nope. It glows when it blows. Haha.
I run a single 2ga off my battery to a 300a breaker. From there to a fuse/relay block.
Surprised no one has suggested marine heat shrink. It has adhesive that makes a water tight seal. I use it on all vehicle stuff.
I've had "half blown" fusible links that would light up a test light just fine--but put something on one that draws more amps like a headlight bulb,the lamp would light brightly at first,then after a minute or so,start to dim or flicker,then lose power...and after that,it might let current flow again after it cooled off a few minutes..
They must have got half fried after a major short circuit ,or the wires inside got gangrene..
They must have got half fried after a major short circuit ,or the wires inside got gangrene..
One of these. Rated for 150A.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Common-10-Gang/dp/B0091VHLW4
Feed it off one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB185-150-Type-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B001PT7XBE
You will most likely not be pulling full rated power off it so I would only do like 4 or 6 gauge wire to it at the most. Found this nifty chart.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Common-10-Gang/dp/B0091VHLW4
Feed it off one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB185-150-Type-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B001PT7XBE
You will most likely not be pulling full rated power off it so I would only do like 4 or 6 gauge wire to it at the most. Found this nifty chart.
I don't really think about that as marine. I have just always used that for working on semis my whole career. It is definitely the way to go.
@diesel4me I've has fusible links that were partially burned or maybe just broken internally that would test good in some positions and then bad if you wiggled or moved them, super frustrating trying to diagnose something.
I see its already being mentioned, but when adding fuse blocks directly from the battery, its always a good idea to have some kind of current limiter in the feed line close to the battery.
Maxifuse, or breaker. Just need something to blow before the feed wire melts. And, of course, you size the limiter to the size of the feed wire, not the total of the fuses.
Maxifuse, or breaker. Just need something to blow before the feed wire melts. And, of course, you size the limiter to the size of the feed wire, not the total of the fuses.
On the interior fuse block, how do I remove it? I found 1 screw on the bottom left but the box still feels tight - what next?
The reason I’m pulling the box is because there are a couple of small unnecessary harnesses that loop around behind it so I’m assuming they plug in to the back side or to something behind it?
After spending a lot of time carefully trimming out dead weight I’ve reached the point where I’m down to a big bundle of junk that was for the TBI computer, DRAC and cluster. I’m hoping I can unpin the main plug and get it down to the column and exterior lights.
The reason I’m pulling the box is because there are a couple of small unnecessary harnesses that loop around behind it so I’m assuming they plug in to the back side or to something behind it?
After spending a lot of time carefully trimming out dead weight I’ve reached the point where I’m down to a big bundle of junk that was for the TBI computer, DRAC and cluster. I’m hoping I can unpin the main plug and get it down to the column and exterior lights.
Don’t you have to pull the bulkhead off at the firewall on the outside?
