That’s a cool option, I guess I need to study up on weatherpack stuff.
CK5
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Wiring Tips & Tricks
- Thread starter nvrenuf
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That’s a cool option, I guess I need to study up on weatherpack stuff.
Unfortunately I've never seen a connector seal that was designed for multiple wires. I'm guessing liquid tape is the only option. I've done the double wire to a single connector setup through a single seal, but you can't run two wires through a round hole without the potential for water ingress if you don't seal it some other way.
But this is a reason to run a panel with plenty of outputs, so you can avoid this whenever possible. Still not always possible if you don't want to use scotchlocks (like me, I have a phobia), I made a "Y" harness for my reverse light connector so I could trigger my backup camera.
MEMO43
1/2 ton status
You think the ignition post of the starter would be another option for ignition "hot" only option or the stud of the alt
I agree a panel is best. In this case I’m looking to tap the brake light circuit for the 3rd brake light on a camper shell and then a constant 12v for some sort of switched light inside the shell.
For brake light, I'd just get one of those four wire trailer adapters that goes between the body and light connector for the taillights. If you HAD to splice something, I'd do it on the trailer side of the adapter, so the stock wiring was intact and could be easily taken back to original if there was an issue.
I can't think of a 12V battery source at the back of a pickup, unless there is a factory trailer harness already there. Flat four wire won't do it, but GM ran a thick red and blue paired wire for trailering if the truck had a tow package.
I can't think of a 12V battery source at the back of a pickup, unless there is a factory trailer harness already there. Flat four wire won't do it, but GM ran a thick red and blue paired wire for trailering if the truck had a tow package.
Weather pack with a dab of silicon around the 2 wire seal. I have not had an issue in the past.
@dyeager535 this is on my dodge daily driver, it has a trailer wiring harness.
If the truck is a 6 or 7 wire plug, then you should have 12V battery and brake lights on it, if it's wired up properly.
Easy fix if so, just go buy (or find) the proper "trailer" side of that setup and you could hard wire it to your camper, so you could disconnect it when you removed the camper.
Easy fix if so, just go buy (or find) the proper "trailer" side of that setup and you could hard wire it to your camper, so you could disconnect it when you removed the camper.
Do they require a specific to to crimp those itty bitty pins?
You can crimp up to about 12ga with the cheap (~$20) tools made for weather and metri-pack terminals. Weather-pack is a relatively large connector.
While you can probably get buy with other crimping methods, the tools made for them really allow the terminals to grip the wire, and for you to make a pretty good circle "crimp" to hold the seals.
While you can probably get buy with other crimping methods, the tools made for them really allow the terminals to grip the wire, and for you to make a pretty good circle "crimp" to hold the seals.
Yes. I bought a kit with 200 plugs when I was doing cars for people. I have not had one fail.
Weatherpack crimper. Just a cheap one from S&K but I've got an identical one from Blue Point at home. It does the different gauge terminals and you can do the part around the wire seal.
I've got this cool setup at work that Lawson did for us. I've also got another one with Metripack kits. Kinda handy to have everything for one connector in a baggy ready to go.
Also, if you spend a bit of time on ebay, there is at least one US vendor that sells 10 pack "kits" of everything to make 10, two wire weather-pack connector assemblies. I don't think I've seen them cheaper. Just stay away from the chinese knockoffs.
It's fairly important to get terminals (and seals) that match the gauge wire you are using though. They don't crimp/hold as well if you don't.
It's fairly important to get terminals (and seals) that match the gauge wire you are using though. They don't crimp/hold as well if you don't.
As I work on the dash wiring I’m curious about a couple of things -
How does the fuse box come apart? I see one screw at the lower left corner, is that all? Does it plug in to anything on the back side or will it fall loose once unbolted?
I will be adding an auxiliary fuse box (6 IGN slots and 6 BAT slots). I found an empty 20a slot on the stock fuse box, do you think that’s adequate to power the IGN portion for items like choke, tach, MSD, alternator?
(fyi, I checked the MSD installation paperwork and it does not specify a power requirement for the switched IGN wire.)
How does the fuse box come apart? I see one screw at the lower left corner, is that all? Does it plug in to anything on the back side or will it fall loose once unbolted?
I will be adding an auxiliary fuse box (6 IGN slots and 6 BAT slots). I found an empty 20a slot on the stock fuse box, do you think that’s adequate to power the IGN portion for items like choke, tach, MSD, alternator?
(fyi, I checked the MSD installation paperwork and it does not specify a power requirement for the switched IGN wire.)
To be on the safe side you could always use that 20A ign feed to switch a relay controlling a larger gauge circuit coming from bat power for your new ign feeds. More involved but easily turns one ign source into many with no possibility for issues.
Oh that’s a nifty idea! 
Typical universal 30a relay or something fancier / higher amperage?
Typical universal 30a relay or something fancier / higher amperage?
Just your normal one unless you plan on some high loads. You could even go big and do a constant duty solenoid if you want some juice. https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24059-BP-Insulated-Continuous/dp/B0064MX7USOh that’s a nifty idea!
red EOD
1/2 ton status
There's many different versions of this but it's a 'bulkhead connector', available from 1 wire up to at least 38 wire connections. Lets you essentially run a wire through a solid surface (like the firewall) while still keeping the surface sealed. Then just unplug the connector if you ever need to remove the solid surface.
https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-E...0865&sprefix=wiring+bulkhead+,aps,180&sr=8-17
https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-E...0865&sprefix=wiring+bulkhead+,aps,180&sr=8-17
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Check out the blue sea systems 5032Blue sea comes recommended often, and if I had a better connection I'd check out what they offer.
I'm pretty happy with the way the Eaton Bussman setups are made.
I do not like being limited to ignition only power...if I need battery 12v, I dont want to run yet another panel. I also dont want more components tied to the panel (relays) randomly about. At some point things are going to fail, being able to easily test/swap/replace makes sense IMO.
Those are 35A relays, one of which is faux mounted to the panel. Mini fuses and relays save space.
Its split so you can run 6 circuits on constant power, and 6 circuits switched.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Blocks/dp/B01BXTXV1Q
