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Work Truck Build : Now featuring a budget!

Overview Gallery Discussion
Yanked the bed and made a scrap run for a whopping $100 back into the budget. Its really easy to pull a bed off with a 2 post lift...



How its sitting after about 4 hours of actually building the bed.





The back of the bed will have plate down flush to the receiver which will become part of the bed. Everything will still unbolt. The center section will be planked with composite decking like my old square body had and the outside sections will be 1/8 plate. Ive still got 9 ribs to put in, Oxy-Acetylene cut out, back rack, lights, and boxes. Ive been holding off on figuring my box location simply because I wanted to slam the box on the drivers side tight to the welder.






skunked said:
If the front end is worn out and sloppy I don't see a SAS being a bad mod from a reliability perspective :dunno:
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Thats basically my perspective. Ive seen these trucks SAS'd to sit at ride height. I have no plans for a lift and big tires. Im putting my metric 33s on it with a 1" body lift and thats it.

Chevy305 said:
Cool truck, but being a purpose work truck. Keep it stock, like others have said. Not to beat a dead horse, but Big tires, SAS, engine swaps, all lead to less overall reliability, difficult fixes, and having to source parts.

Honestly, if the NV3500 shifts well, keep it till it blows. Then upgrade to the NV4500.
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Thats the plan with the transmission.
 
What it the drop down on the right side for? Torch cylinders?

Martin
 
beags86 said:
I would convert the stock ifs to a stock 3/4 ton ifs. The factory ifs is a lot stronger on these trucks then people think, just have a bad rap from the wheelers out there. But from the work truck aspect, plenty strong. If you can find someone doing a SAS then you can convert for most likely for free. Most of it goes to scrap when people do this.
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beags86 said:
6 lug, I was talking 8 lug stuff
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Problem with this is, the 8 lug stuff doesn't swap over. Frame brackets for the control arms are wider spread on the "true"3/4 ton.

Stomis said:
We'll see. All mods will be dependant on whether I feel theyre actually necessary or not. If the front end constantly comes out of alignment and chews my duratracs, there will be SAS.
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I'm 50/50 on IFS or SAS swap. If you do keep IFS. I would think the front end would last a lot longer if you sold the 33's and went with a 235/85/16. They'd be easier on the steering/suspension, probably lower replacement cost and typically have better load ratings for the work you'd be putting it through. And I'm bias, I like the look of the 235/85's


Bed is looking bas ass though! cant wait to see the finished product!
 
On the plate they drops down to the hitch. Are you gonna leave it full like that or trim it at an angle to fit the width of the hitch? I'm assuming it was just an in progress pic but I ask anyway
 
POORBOYK5 said:
Problem with this is, the 8 lug stuff doesn't swap over. Frame brackets for the control arms are wider spread on the "true"3/4 ton.


I'm 50/50 on IFS or SAS swap. If you do keep IFS. I would think the front end would last a lot longer if you sold the 33's and went with a 235/85/16. They'd be easier on the steering/suspension, probably lower replacement cost and typically have better load ratings for the work you'd be putting it through. And I'm bias, I like the look of the 235/85's


Bed is looking bas ass though! cant wait to see the finished product!
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I love the 235 look but Ive got an almost new set of 285s sitting around on the trooper that need to be used. When it comes time to buy tires, I will be buying 235s.

Smokinthehippies said:
On the plate they drops down to the hitch. Are you gonna leave it full like that or trim it at an angle to fit the width of the hitch? I'm assuming it was just an in progress pic but I ask anyway
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That plate is staying full. Pictures to come to illustrate how it will come together today and not look funky.


82355 said:
What it the drop down on the right side for? Torch cylinders?

Martin
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Indeed
 
Stomis said:
Like this.
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Are you gonna plate in that gap as well?
That definitely helps.
Just for thought. About cutting the plate now on an angle and running the side tube all the way down to the hitch? Instead of making it a two step?
Just a thought. Keep up the work
 
Holy long day. 6:30 until midnight. I really didnt want to have to grind paint off 10 times to finish everything just for the sake of getting it painted and out of my buds garage. I knew I would just make it if I pulled a late night.

First I douched the frame with rustoleum brush on enamel.



Which is flamable btw.



And I think it came together really nice with the angle irons capping it and the bumperettes in the back.










Tomorrow I'll wire lights, plank the center with the trex deck, mounts the boxes and be done. Only fab left to do is the racks. I figured it wasnt much of a big deal scrapping off a couple 3x3 sections.
 
Smokinthehippies said:
Looks pretty bitchin.

I forgot already but do you have plans for air bags to handle the weight?
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Not as of this moment. I'll probably put higher 3/4ton GVRW springs out back in the future but to be honest with you the bed isnt that crazy heavy. The stock bed is probably 200-300lbs and I would guess this is 650ish.
 
Lunch break. Need to wire trailer plug and set the decking. Backrack to come next week. Looks empty with no welder or tanks between the boxes and the cab lol.

 
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