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Zeus

I knew if I lived to get old enough, I would have some regrets. But I never thought that this would be one.

I know you folks, even the young folks can see some of the changes going on. But, photography has changed more than you can believe.

I see that picture of Zeus with a few drops of water on the floor board, and I remember some of my adventures, and I have no pictures.

When I was growing up, cameras were expensive, and fairly rare. Film was expensive, and so was the developing.

So, taking a camera into the swamp was for rich explorers, not regular folk.
Which means, I don't have pictures of me in my jeep with my wallet in my teeth to keep it from getting wet when the water came over my lap as I drove.

My naval was the go/nogo point.
When the water hit it, I had a decision to make. If the water looked like it was deeper ahead, I had to back out.
Because that put it up to the base of the carb.
If I was past the deepest part, I could go ahead.

This was really difficult at night, because when the headlights went under you could not see anything.

No pictures of me yelling at my cousin to open the doors on his truck so it would sink and not float off the road in the current.

I do have some very old super-8 stuff, of the jeep, and a some of the trucks going through bad stuff and one of these days I will try to post some clips.

But not soon, its too big a hassle right now.

You think you are taking a lot of pictures now, trust me, take even more. Even if you don't post them, someday you will thank me.
 
KidJethro said:
Speaking of High Angle Driveline-


:woot:


Now to hunt down a 1 5/16" socket to swap out the new 1410 yoke on the 60.
Click to expand...

Nice driveshaft! I forgot you were the one that worked there, are you sure you know how to measure for it? ha ha :thumb:

And don't quote me on this because it's just memory so I could be wrong, but I think the D60 was a 1 3/16" socket, I think the NP205 was the 1 5/16" socket. You might want to double check that...
 
Its 1 5/16ths, I have one that is ground down to remove the stock d60 1310 yoke because it wasn't a thin wall socket and that 1310 yoke is small.
 
Well....testing of the HAD shaft went well....but damn, what a long night. I got it stuck so bad that a '04 Ram 4x4 Cummins Dually wouldn't budge it. :eek1:
I had to get the medics M113 from the motor pool to pull it out. One identical to this-
id_m113_ambulance_700.jpg


Fortunately, one of my buddies is a medic and had access to it. That M113 dead pulled the truck out of that hole like it was a fart in the wind. :eek1:

IMG_20110518_183208.jpg

IMG_20110518_183301.jpg


I have more pictures and some video that I'll try to get posted up soon.

Killed the starter so it wasn't mobile. Had to pull it on the trail, bring it back to the motor pool, take it completely apart, clean a ridiculous amount of sand and mud out of it, put it back together and go back out to re-install it. It's still pretty pissed off....works about 10% of the time. :haha:

But now I have an even bigger problem. Transmission won't shift out of first. I can run it through the gears manually, but it won't shift at all and engine rpms are way out of control- really high and won't kick back down without a good blip of the pedal. Vacuum modulator failed maybe? I pulled the line off the modulator at the tranny and vacuum is present. So now what? Do modulators just fail? :confused:

Scott, if you're reading this, you're probably gonna get a phone call later today. :haha::whistle:
 
KidJethro said:
But now I have an even bigger problem. Transmission won't shift out of first. I can run it through the gears manually, but it won't shift at all and engine rpms are way out of control- really high and won't kick back down without a good blip of the pedal. Vacuum modulator failed maybe? I pulled the line off the modulator at the tranny and vacuum is present. So now what? Do modulators just fail? :confused:
Click to expand...

Holy big puddle batman!

So the RPMS will go back down if you blip the throttle? If your linkage is not binding I would be looking at the TPS or the IAC valve.

As for the tranny, you said you can "run it through the gears manually, but it won't shift at all? So when you shift it manually, does it shift then? Does 3rd gear work?

I am thinking about your detent selonoid, and your intermediate sprag, etc, but need more info. Also, how does the fluid look? The vent hose is right on the top of the tranny and is usually NOT extended from the factory.
 
Haha, Nice Joe..:haha:

Spent a good amount of time in some of the old M113. I remember my old TC always helling at me because I drove it like the General Lee. Spit a couple of tracks in my time trying to do power slides with them over in Germany. :eek1: :D Man would he get pissed and made me do a lot of push ups for it. :doah:

I'm sure it pulled you out like there was nothing behind it. :waytogo:
 
folkenheath said:
Holy big puddle batman!

So the RPMS will go back down if you blip the throttle? If your linkage is not binding I would be looking at the TPS or the IAC valve.

As for the tranny, you said you can "run it through the gears manually, but it won't shift at all? So when you shift it manually, does it shift then? Does 3rd gear work?

I am thinking about your detent selonoid, and your intermediate sprag, etc, but need more info. Also, how does the fluid look? The vent hose is right on the top of the tranny and is usually NOT extended from the factory.
Click to expand...

I've gotta throw a new starter on it before I can get out and road test again. But those are the symptoms I remember from last night. I know the fluid looks and smells like fresh out of the bottle.

I'll get back with more info as soon as I get a chance to go pick up another starter.
 
KidJethro said:
I've gotta throw a new starter on it before I can get out and road test again. But those are the symptoms I remember from last night. I know the fluid looks and smells like fresh out of the bottle.

I'll get back with more info as soon as I get a chance to go pick up another starter.
Click to expand...

Check the fluids in everything, you were deep enough the water can be everywhere now.
It could be what is wrong
 
I know you have a carefully thought out plan for this truck, but you seriously need to consider a detour.
Forget about all the other stuff for now, and invest in a good winch.

Looking at that picture from the rear, that hole would have stopped my truck for about 15 minutes, tops.
If there is such a thing as an ideal place to get stuck, thats it. Lots of trees around.

As for the starter, I'm surprised that it had problems.
Trust me, compared to some of the places I've been, that hole is nothing, and I only ever had one starter fail.
And that one would spin just fine, but it got mud between the contacts on a Ford Positive Engagement starter, and the Bendix would not pull in.

I have had lots of starters fail a few days after, but never in the bog.

Wait until you are sunk into mud so deep, that you have to climb out the window, you can walk all the way around the truck without bogging and your boots are just below the door handles.
And you have to dig down to the winch and clear out the mud from in front of the radiator so the engine will not overheat.

That is when you appreciate a good winch......

As for the revving up and the shifting, hopefully its the same problem.
As you know, I'm a Ford guy, but over the years I have tinkered with Th400s. If I remember right, it has a kickdown cable or lever.

Sounds like something is binding your throttle linkage, and probably holding the kickdown in full throttle mode.
The transmission thinks you are at WOT, and is keeping it in the lower gears accordingly.

Take the air cleaner off, and watch the linkage closely as someone slowly pushes the acc. pedal all the way down and back with the engine off.

You should see something binding. Hopefully its the kickdown, so fixing it will fix both at the same time.

Had the same thing happen to a C6 in my old car once. Doing some work, the shop somehow bent the kickdown lever going from the carb to the transmission. Its a hollow aluminum shaft on that car.

Didn't bind the throttle, but the transmission stayed in low forever. When it finally shifted, the slightest movement of the throttle would cause it to slam back to first when the vacuum changed.

Oh, and modulators can fail, but on yours they usually fail with a busted diaphragm, in which case you find transmission fluid in the vacuum hose where it hooks to the modulator.
 
Fordum said:
As for the revving up and the shifting, hopefully its the same problem.
As you know, I'm a Ford guy, but over the years I have tinkered with Th400s. If I remember right, it has a kickdown cable or lever.

Sounds like something is binding your throttle linkage, and probably holding the kickdown in full throttle mode.
The transmission thinks you are at WOT, and is keeping it in the lower gears accordingly.
Click to expand...

The TH400 has a kickdown solenoid(no cable), controlled by a switch near the gas pedal, that is what I was referring to earlier as the "detent solenoid".
 
Installed new starter, went for a drive. Have 1st gear and reverse. In drive, it won't shift from first at all, regardless rpm's. Can't manually shift through the gears either. RPM's are still way high too. My truck doesn't have the detent switch on the pedal, I think its on the linkage by the throttle body somewhere. Bleh, I don't want to deal with a dead transmission. :doah:

As for the winch thing....I have a brand new, never used Ramsey Patriot 12k winch back in Cali, just no bumper to mount it on. Would have been soooo nice to have last night...
 
OK, no linkage. Still might be something around the throttle body linkage holding the switch down.

May be just wistful thinking on my part, but I just can't shake the feeling that your tranny is not bad.
It was working good when you went into the hole, the oil looks good, so no water or burnt clutches, but now it won't shift.

I would investigate the kickdown system, the control linkage, even though if it were bent, the indicator should be off,
And slide under and check the pan. You may have creased it on a stump and its doing bad things to the valve body.

But really check out the throttle linkage. Since you have two problems with a possible common point at the throttle body.

When two things go wrong at the same time, always look for a common denominator.

If the winch is still in the box, see if you can sell it and buy the same one locally. If you get a good deal in Ca. the difference might be less than shipping.
 
KidJethro said:
Installed new starter, went for a drive. Have 1st gear and reverse. In drive, it won't shift from first at all, regardless rpm's. Can't manually shift through the gears either. RPM's are still way high too. My truck doesn't have the detent switch on the pedal, I think its on the linkage by the throttle body somewhere. Bleh, I don't want to deal with a dead transmission. :doah:

As for the winch thing....I have a brand new, never used Ramsey Patriot 12k winch back in Cali, just no bumper to mount it on. Would have been soooo nice to have last night...
Click to expand...

If it's got reverse it should have 3rd, reverse uses the direct clutches too, along with the rear band. Unfortunately you just had it low on fluid last week or something right? The TH400 is about as solid of a trans as you can get, but it can still get killed. If the int roller clutch is toast it would not have second gear, but it would have 1st and 3rd. Although when you shift it into 2nd it would act like it was still in 1st.

I would be checking the shift linkage and also double checking the fluid, etc. Fordum does have a point that more than one thing changed at one time, it could be related. Maybe the newer trucks have a computer switch the kickdown solenoid on since they have a TPS sensor? And since reverse works, your direct clutch is fine, so 3rd should work.
 
Did you check the vacuum line to the transmission?? TH400's have electric KICKDOWN all other functions are controlled by vacuum


Edit: yes the Modulators do fail fairly often
 
folkenheath said:
If it's got reverse it should have 3rd, reverse uses the direct clutches too, along with the rear band. Unfortunately you just had it low on fluid last week or something right? The TH400 is about as solid of a trans as you can get, but it can still get killed. If the int roller clutch is toast it would not have second gear, but it would have 1st and 3rd. Although when you shift it into 2nd it would act like it was still in 1st.

I would be checking the shift linkage and also double checking the fluid, etc. Fordum does have a point that more than one thing changed at one time, it could be related. Maybe the newer trucks have a computer switch the kickdown solenoid on since they have a TPS sensor? And since reverse works, your direct clutch is fine, so 3rd should work.
Click to expand...

What about the governor?
Isn't that what controls the 1-2 shift, if it's stuck from maybe water getting to it or when it was low on fluid it got stuck?
I would take it out make sure it's getting oil and moves freely.
That is an easy 2 minute deal.
 
Again, I am talking about more than I know........But, I have replaced the modulator on a GM tranny.
At the time, if you had asked, I would have said it was a 400, but I really did not know for sure.
It may have been a 350.

And the modulator just screwed in with what looked like a pipe thread. It had a plunger coming out the hollow pipe which moved back and forth with the vacuum.

I have seen him drive. If that truck would move, he was slamming it back and forth pretty hard.

A small log, stump, or just some firm mud, might have bent that modulator mount tube just enough to bind that plunger but not enough to be noticeable from under the truck.

Joe, needs to do some under tranny time. Check on the gov. look at the pan for dents or creases, and check the mod.

Anyone here who knows for sure, is that the type of modulator on a 400?
 
folkenheath-"If it's got reverse it should have 3rd, reverse uses the direct clutches too, along with the rear band."

IIRC, it's first and reverse that use the same bands on a TH 400, and most other auto trans of that era. SO then I would say modulator valve, or something plugged with $hit leading to or from that vacuum line.
 
My ability to tinker on the truck is kinda slow cause of work stuff...we'v been doin this little bull **** field problem for the past week, still have a week to go. Stuck livin in the motor pool 24/7. I only get the chance to do anything when I can sneak out to the parking lot and at night.

When I get a chance I'll go pull the governer cover and look in there...although still not real sure what I'd be lookin at. I would have replaced the modulator already, but autozone didn't have one. Is that a parts store item or..?

It has good strong vacuum at the modulator, so I know that line is good. I guess the next step is to find the shift solenoid hing and take a look at that. Also inspect my throttle cable/linkage...it's always had a small sticking point right off idle. Maybe the mud/sand exagerated that problem.
 
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