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Zimmer's Fatboy power tour. 6/1/15...Now touring NC

More than that...... It was $980 to do my bedsides and dually flares. In the stock blue metallic ford.
 
Not sure on your route down to BB, but I am sure if you come down along I15 we may be able to get the Utah group together for a meet.

Will be in Eric's area Tues 4th and Wed 5th, mabye we can get together somewhere in his town for an evening?

There are a few of us about an hour south of Denver in Colorado Springs.
Me, 63chevyII, ktmoutfront, jeffinco,,and some others.

I do have one of these:

lets make this happen...I will stay in Ouray area Monday night, and head towards Co springs Tues am...how far away is that? will it be cold going over the Rockies, across hwy 50? Will be heading out Wed sometime for home...PM sent to Geoff in co. springs about the M&G thread in the rocky mtn region forum.

My absolute favorite bar none color ever produced on any kind of mass scale

Eric, I will be in your area hopefully Tuesday sometime...weather permitting. lets have a get together in town for anyone who can make it.

MTchevy: I will plan on meeting you for a lunch or something on my way through Great Falls, on Tuesday the 4th
PM me a phone # if this still looks good for you!
 
2qts primer, 1 qt orion silver base, 2qts kandy tangerine color, 1pt kandy concentrate, 1 qt ultraclear, reducers, hardeners, surface prep solvent, everything from primer coats to clear coats...any guesses on price?



$784.68
 
Wow is HOK stuff nice...real quality stuff from what I'm used to shooting.

The black sealer went on smooth, and the Orion Silver base is smooth and loaded with Silver pigment...had about an inch of solids on the bottom of the quart can I got, once it was mixed in it sparkles like a diamond.

I got to base on the test speedshapes today....

1st is 2 coats black sealer, followed by 2 coats of Orion Silver base.

HPIM3917800x600.jpg




this is 2 black sealer, 3 base silver

HPIM3921800x600.jpg



this is 2 black sealer, 4 base Orion Silver coats.

HPIM3920800x600.jpg
 
it's an uncatalyzed base correct?



you can really get different looks on 3 stages just by changing the base from fine to course metallic.. totally different look in the end... most tint systems have 5 or 6 different silver tints alone...
 
it's an uncatalyzed base correct?



you can really get different looks on 3 stages just by changing the base from fine to course metallic.. totally different look in the end... most tint systems have 5 or 6 different silver tints alone...

That's right Paul...That is one reason why I'm experimenting with the base and Kandy coats.
Something else I found out was, not to use the Nason sealer, they highly recommended I sand it off, and use their primer/sealer.
I found that product to be somewhat interesting...the sealer can be used for high build, medium build, and sealer...depending on how much reducer is added, its a DTS primer/sealer, and is not compatible with self etching primers (acid base) underneath.
 
yeah, i've seen primers like that in the past, where you just thin it out some to use it as a sealer.. what do they want you using for an initial etch coat, if not the acid base? epoxy?
 
this product is what they recommend..it is an epoxy hybrid..it uses an activator.

I talked with the tech guy, and he was very helpful with my plans. I told him I was starting with the factory paint, and building with the Nason acrylic primer...he was ok with that, but was strongly recommending I take off the Nason sealer, and use their product.
 
so, in other cases, it would be 1 product, an epoxy hybrid, from raw steel thru sealer?
 
yes....from their description of it:

KD3000 Series Kustom DTS Foundation Surfacer Sealers
KD3000 is a hybrid epoxy two component primer designed to be used as a DTS or Direct to Substrate High Build High Build Surfacer, Medium Build Surfacer/High Build Sealer, or silky smooth sealer. Available in 6 premixed colors which can be intermixed for a wide range of colors. KD3000 is an industry first and undisputedly the best foundation system available. KD3000 has excellent adhesion, corrosion resistance, productive dry times, and ease of sanding. These DTS surfacer/sealers emit very low amounts of Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs), Hazardous Air Polluting Solvents (HAPS), and contain no isocyanates. The KD3000 Series DTS surfacer/sealers may be applied to the existing OEM finish, bare steel, aluminum, fiberglass, galvanized surfaces, and various plastics. Its tenacious adhesion, hi-build, excellent durability, and water and corrosion resistance and ease of sanding make it a superior choice for the basis of a long lasting custom paint job. For the quickest and easiest approach to selecting ground coat color, apply basecoat over KD3000 Color Check panel (part # HOK1052015) and select which formula best matches your desired color and effect.
 
my prob with that is epoxy products are NOTORIOUS for sanding like sh*t. I dealt with that for quite a few yrs and was it ever annoying... painting a frame, or a bridge, ok, x-blocking a body panel, annoying as he!!..... hopefully they've changed it up so it sands better....
 
I just used it as a sealer so far....so good.
I will see how the initial coats go on the bike parts, as to whether or not I'll need to touch em up with some wetsand before base coats go on.


Finished my experiments today...really happy with the results...the pics make it look grainy, but it is a very smooth sunburst in the Kandy...looks awesome on these little speedshapes, hopefully I can pull it off on the bike parts.


this one is just Kandy Tangerine...3 coats of silver base and 3 of the Kandy, and 3 clear over that.

HPIM3925800x600.jpg




this one is the two colors...the silver base and the Kandy Tangerine with a black stripe for testing purposes.
4 coats of silver, 2 intercoat, 2 black stripe, 3 tangerine, 3 clear...

HPIM3926800x600.jpg



HPIM3927800x600.jpg



Same piece taken outside:

HPIM3928800x600.jpg


HPIM3929800x600.jpg


HPIM3930800x600.jpg
 
:thumb: Freakin sweet man. :thumb: HOK rocks dont it:waytogo:
 
yep it does....it is way different in person though.
I took those pics without a flash...the indoor shots make it look reddish.
The closest to actual color is the last one, but the camera captures the grainy look of the silver base...Dam it does look like what I was expecting though...hope the parts go as well as the test pieces have.
 
Man, that looks nice Zim. Pretty excited to see the tins when you're done. :woot:

Just a question so I understand correctly. Will the HOK paints be compatible with the RG over the bare metal? I still plan on using the HOK, just wanted to make sure if I was reading what you wrote correctly.
 
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