Inspect the pick up screen for rtv or gasket materials, or any other forgien objects. Buddy of mine found a wire nut in his.
CK5
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Will do sir. Since I have a new pan, pick up and gasket I'll be in the bottom end already. Not sure yet if there's any inspecting I wanna take on while I'm in there. Does it make any sense to pull caps off and look at stuff? (If it's not clear I don't know what I'm looking for)
Quick question. It seems I can pull the transmission out of the truck and leave the adapter bolted into the crossmember and T-case. Does that sound right? That would save me from removing driveshafts and the tricky (clocked flat) T-case linkages.
Quick question. It seems I can pull the transmission out of the truck and leave the adapter bolted into the crossmember and T-case. Does that sound right? That would save me from removing driveshafts and the tricky (clocked flat) T-case linkages.
Back on page 10 is the engine semi torn down. I never saw "wet oil" but it's obvious it's got a leak some place with the dirt. Intake? That's the easiest to replace. My new oil pan has a gasket and I have a new rear main seal, so that's taken care of. Rather not pull the timing cover off, that will have to stay 
I hope that helps.
I'm sure Fel-Pro will be recommended but there's 10k choices. Which is good? I'm not running an EGR. Heads are TPI Camaro/ iron vortex and intake is the provisions for angled/straight bolts. If all that matters.
I hope that helps.
I'm sure Fel-Pro will be recommended but there's 10k choices. Which is good? I'm not running an EGR. Heads are TPI Camaro/ iron vortex and intake is the provisions for angled/straight bolts. If all that matters.
Any recommendations for the above?
Also, and this took me a couple years to finish but it's done in time for the drivetrain swap, is this carport and shop. 12'x13' shop and 12'x20' carport. Just needs gutters and power and obvious organization/shelves/etc. Stoked. Been a long time coming. Plank will be the first car to be on concrete, never mind also shaded, while being worked on
Engine stand be waiting for an engine
Looking out of the 5x7' roll up door
Also, and this took me a couple years to finish but it's done in time for the drivetrain swap, is this carport and shop. 12'x13' shop and 12'x20' carport. Just needs gutters and power and obvious organization/shelves/etc. Stoked. Been a long time coming. Plank will be the first car to be on concrete, never mind also shaded, while being worked on
Engine stand be waiting for an engine
Looking out of the 5x7' roll up door
Fel pro is good Mahl is as well.
I have used the 1 piece oil pan gaskets from both. Be sure to get the correct dip stick side.
I have used the 1 piece oil pan gaskets from both. Be sure to get the correct dip stick side.
On the stand
Curious what these heads are actually called. I was told a TPI Camaro, maybe. Cast iron Vortec before they were aluminum. They have the center intake bolts straight up.
Curious what these heads are actually called. I was told a TPI Camaro, maybe. Cast iron Vortec before they were aluminum. They have the center intake bolts straight up.
Pic whore
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I borrowed a bore scope from my plumber neighbor and will check the cylinders Wednesday. I tried pulling the pan but it won't come off. Feels like the pump or pick up swelled and it won't come off lol. Fuk, I hope the flex plate doesn't have to come off. That makes no sense 
Wish I had pulled it but wanted to keep everything simple.
Also decided to find new headers for it. Something bigger and better flow. Not sure how I'm gunna afford that pill though.
I'd love to pull it farther apart for a honing and rings but it's fine for now. Wasn't even destined for Plank but here we are
Wish I had pulled it but wanted to keep everything simple.Also decided to find new headers for it. Something bigger and better flow. Not sure how I'm gunna afford that pill though.
I'd love to pull it farther apart for a honing and rings but it's fine for now. Wasn't even destined for Plank but here we are
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The heads aren’t vortec. That would have only 8 bolts for the intake to head mounting and all 8 bolts would be vertical. With the odd center bolt angle I think that’s tbi or tpi.
Yeah, I don't know either but the ports are definitely vortec. Quite a sight to see the first time having only dealt with older heads and dirtbike engines. I know they got reworked some when the machine shop had the engine.
I’m not saying they don’t have a different port design, but actual vortec heads lack the center two bolts on each side to the head where the edge passage is on them. But the big thing that is unique to the vortec for visual id is the vertical bolt location where the manifold bolts to the head. No other SBC head used the same style or pattern. Even the LT1 was different.
Oh boy, shit got real. Just took a $100 deposit on the Nova's stock engine and trans. Getting pulled before the 14th
Hope this pan doesn't need its own skid plate lol. Gezz, maybe should have ran a factory front sump. Whatever, we'll see.
Question: what is a good mini starter? Thought I'd have clearance issue but wanted to wait before buying a $$$ starter
Also, is this header and oil filter going to play nice? You know, minus the hand...
Question: what is a good mini starter? Thought I'd have clearance issue but wanted to wait before buying a $$$ starter
Also, is this header and oil filter going to play nice? You know, minus the hand...
Cause I have the time and no money.
Built Not Bought
Holds the 3 3/8" and a single 2 1/16 gauge. The rest are in a 3 gauge pod probably going at the bottom of the dash. All supplied by Bender.
Just a thin piece of steel sandwiched in the bezel. Gotta clean up the plastic somehow. Was stoked to keep that. Needs some small tweaks and paint, ready for assembly and wiring later.
PS-driving plank with just a fuel gauge who needs MPH when ur slow
Built Not Bought
Holds the 3 3/8" and a single 2 1/16 gauge. The rest are in a 3 gauge pod probably going at the bottom of the dash. All supplied by Bender.
Just a thin piece of steel sandwiched in the bezel. Gotta clean up the plastic somehow. Was stoked to keep that. Needs some small tweaks and paint, ready for assembly and wiring later.
PS-driving plank with just a fuel gauge
who needs MPH when ur slow
I gotta figure out how to remove the core support before more progress is made. Everything is completely unbolted, linkages, driveshaft, exhaust... but the core is in the way. (It will be in the way of fitting the new drivetrain, mock up etc as well)
Ah! You can get it out without removing the core support. You have a hoist?
There is a bunch of stuff to remove if you want to slip engine out/in. The core support is riveted to the strut rod support plates which gusset the front frame. -some early cars are bolted here. Basically the whole front end has to come apart to remove the core support. Easier to unbolt the stub frame if you really have to. Leave in place and use a hoist.
Did you get the oil pan off? Probably just glued on by prior builder overuse of RTV. Make sure no bolts are hiding and pry at the corners.
Paul
There is a bunch of stuff to remove if you want to slip engine out/in. The core support is riveted to the strut rod support plates which gusset the front frame. -some early cars are bolted here. Basically the whole front end has to come apart to remove the core support. Easier to unbolt the stub frame if you really have to. Leave in place and use a hoist.
Did you get the oil pan off? Probably just glued on by prior builder overuse of RTV. Make sure no bolts are hiding and pry at the corners.
Paul
Oil pan was tricky to snake around the pick up. It's a Milodon with extra baffling. Got it off and installed the Nova pan.
Once the stock engine is out, I need to fabricate motor and trans mounts, so I foresee placing and removing the engine/trans combo a few times. Would be easier, I imaging, with the core support removed. But yes, looking it over brings the suck.
Any pointers would help. I'm starting on the grill and bumper and learning from there. Rivets....already got 100 notches in my belt...ain't scared of those.
Also I am very aware they make V8/700r4 mounts but I have some DIY4x mounts from the Blazer. They are in nice shape and overall a better mount than the original 60s style. Also, not interested in spending $400 for engine/trans mounts. I got $60 in steel I can make work
Once the stock engine is out, I need to fabricate motor and trans mounts, so I foresee placing and removing the engine/trans combo a few times. Would be easier, I imaging, with the core support removed. But yes, looking it over brings the suck.
Any pointers would help. I'm starting on the grill and bumper and learning from there. Rivets....already got 100 notches in my belt...ain't scared of those.
Also I am very aware they make V8/700r4 mounts but I have some DIY4x mounts from the Blazer. They are in nice shape and overall a better mount than the original 60s style. Also, not interested in spending $400 for engine/trans mounts. I got $60 in steel I can make work
Engine is offset ~1" to RH/Pass Side. Are you sure you want to go the scratch route? There is not a lot of height to work in and clam-shell mounts take a lot of mounting area as they are frame mounted. New aftermarket frame mounts are $94 for the pair from Chevy2Only. Rubber interlocked mounts are $18ea. Correct and super easy. The trans mount you'd have to section and shift back 2" (yeah, new unit is $200). $340 + shipping for all unless you can find cheaper/used.
https://gmclassics.com/part/frame-motor-mount-includes-hardware/
https://gmclassics.com/part/v8-motor-mount-small-block-heavy-duty/
https://gmclassics.com/part/cross-member-transmission-700r4-fits-700r4-4l60-4l60e/
Those rivets are 1/2" steel like on the C/K truck frames. Four of them hold the core support and need to be drilled out and sheared off. -same as you'd do to install one of the strut rod eliminator lower suspension kits. Everything has to come off the front and the fender hardware/nuts and headlight bucket hardware is prob the hardest to deal with as it's all exposed to road debris/wet (even West Coast cars). I think buying the correct hardware up front will save you 3-weeks on going the scratch route and having to blow it all apart (and then fix broken stuff to reassemble). Not fun.
Paul
https://gmclassics.com/part/frame-motor-mount-includes-hardware/
https://gmclassics.com/part/v8-motor-mount-small-block-heavy-duty/
https://gmclassics.com/part/cross-member-transmission-700r4-fits-700r4-4l60-4l60e/
Those rivets are 1/2" steel like on the C/K truck frames. Four of them hold the core support and need to be drilled out and sheared off. -same as you'd do to install one of the strut rod eliminator lower suspension kits. Everything has to come off the front and the fender hardware/nuts and headlight bucket hardware is prob the hardest to deal with as it's all exposed to road debris/wet (even West Coast cars). I think buying the correct hardware up front will save you 3-weeks on going the scratch route and having to blow it all apart (and then fix broken stuff to reassemble). Not fun.
Paul
That would be the sane route 100%.
But I guess I'm looking to advance my own personal experience more than make it easy. Dumb right? LOL
I said this in another thread. Someone told me to just buy the pieces cause I'd probably do it wrong and have it fail later. That's already a lot of motivation to continue down the road I'm going
As of tonight, everything but the core is pulled off the front. Lights, valance, grill, bumper... everything. As I called it quits tonight I was looking for the hidden bolts around the fender areas and getting a game plan. If this core wasn't in such good shape (like a previous project I had that was twisted some) I would just cut the top and make it bolt in. BUT, this 400sb/700r4 isn't the end goal for Plank, so I'll be doing a lot of this again much later.
I have a plan for the engine mounts. I also have a plan for the trans mount that leaves more room for exhaust and ties in the frame connectors I previously put in. Hope it all works out. I'm sure I'll be kicking myself regardless later but that's future "me's" problem.
But I guess I'm looking to advance my own personal experience more than make it easy. Dumb right? LOL
I said this in another thread. Someone told me to just buy the pieces cause I'd probably do it wrong and have it fail later. That's already a lot of motivation to continue down the road I'm going
As of tonight, everything but the core is pulled off the front. Lights, valance, grill, bumper... everything. As I called it quits tonight I was looking for the hidden bolts around the fender areas and getting a game plan. If this core wasn't in such good shape (like a previous project I had that was twisted some) I would just cut the top and make it bolt in. BUT, this 400sb/700r4 isn't the end goal for Plank, so I'll be doing a lot of this again much later.
I have a plan for the engine mounts. I also have a plan for the trans mount that leaves more room for exhaust and ties in the frame connectors I previously put in. Hope it all works out. I'm sure I'll be kicking myself regardless later but that's future "me's" problem.
