How much vacuum it makes.
CK5
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1966 Chevy C20
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
I thought it might be something like fluctuations or something. I should be able to check it Sunday.
Had a problem Tuesday when I drove it to work. After driving for a bit, then sitting for a bit, it didn't want to restart. Just cranked weakly until battery dead. Had the battery tested today and it's good. So I'm thinking it's the starter.
I have receipts for just about everything having been replaced BUT the starter, so it might be getting too old.
Anyway, gonna put in new starter, change engine oil, filter, and replace the fluid in the transmission.
Had a problem Tuesday when I drove it to work. After driving for a bit, then sitting for a bit, it didn't want to restart. Just cranked weakly until battery dead. Had the battery tested today and it's good. So I'm thinking it's the starter.
I have receipts for just about everything having been replaced BUT the starter, so it might be getting too old.
Anyway, gonna put in new starter, change engine oil, filter, and replace the fluid in the transmission.
I wouldn't worry about the valve seats much unless you plan to drive it long periods of time on interstates or tow with it...a bottle of lead additive or marvel mystery oil will keep the seats alive even if you did that with it too most likely..
When I was working in a parts store with an auto machine shop,we did not see that many burnt valve seats--just exhaust valves mostly,and a loose guide every so often,and we did a lot of work on fleet truck engines and valve jobs for car dealerships..
I am willing to bet lack of valve lash or a stuck lifter,and deposits on the valve stems, was what made most of the seats to burn,not so much the lack of lead..we did see many valves with so much gunk and carbon caked up under their heads on the stems, it was a miracle the engine ran though!..it almost blocked the ports in the heads completely..
When I was working in a parts store with an auto machine shop,we did not see that many burnt valve seats--just exhaust valves mostly,and a loose guide every so often,and we did a lot of work on fleet truck engines and valve jobs for car dealerships..
I am willing to bet lack of valve lash or a stuck lifter,and deposits on the valve stems, was what made most of the seats to burn,not so much the lack of lead..we did see many valves with so much gunk and carbon caked up under their heads on the stems, it was a miracle the engine ran though!..it almost blocked the ports in the heads completely..
I did go ahead and buy some lead additive today. I want this motor to stay in good condition. I was surprised they had some on the shelf.
No towing but most anywhere we go requires a good 15 minutes of highway driving.
I did find on the rebuild paperwork a line item for valve guides.
Today we replaced the starter and that made a huge difference. Don't know why the improvement of a new starter surprises me every time.
No towing but most anywhere we go requires a good 15 minutes of highway driving.
I did find on the rebuild paperwork a line item for valve guides.
Today we replaced the starter and that made a huge difference. Don't know why the improvement of a new starter surprises me every time.
Love the 60-66 trucks. Here is mine.
A 4x4 version would be super sweet!
The 66 has a horrible vibration thru the shifter so I decided to perform the classic fix for this.
I started out welding the half sphere, stick, and collar together.
You will notice the picture is taken after some grinding. The welds were quite ugly with the oil contamination. I suppose the ideal would be to give the stick a good cleaning and drying before welding.
I also pulled out the stub that engages the shift rails. You can see there were nylon rings in there to help dampen vibration but they are all busted up.
I replaced them with 2 oring in each slot. 2 orings because I didn't have one that was thick enough to do the by itself.
Made a big difference in the noise as in eliminated it. Also tightened up the stick. Glad I did it and really didn't take much more than an hour all said and done.
I started out welding the half sphere, stick, and collar together.
You will notice the picture is taken after some grinding. The welds were quite ugly with the oil contamination. I suppose the ideal would be to give the stick a good cleaning and drying before welding.
I also pulled out the stub that engages the shift rails. You can see there were nylon rings in there to help dampen vibration but they are all busted up.
I replaced them with 2 oring in each slot. 2 orings because I didn't have one that was thick enough to do the by itself.
Made a big difference in the noise as in eliminated it. Also tightened up the stick. Glad I did it and really didn't take much more than an hour all said and done.
Got a key chain.
Never realized how hard it can be to keep track of a single key until I tried doing so since buying the '66.
Never realized how hard it can be to keep track of a single key until I tried doing so since buying the '66.
That guy does good work. Love mine.
Haha, that's actually one my problems. I tend to just leave it in the ignition.
I have the same issue. But I do live kind of in the country. And my neighbor is a stay at home mom, so she keeps an eye on everything.
I do that all the time with the blazer because it is the only reason I have to carry keys at all. My house, shop, car, and office are all keyless entry now, so when I drive the blazer and have to carry a key I tend to forget.
I got tired of huge key rings so the house stuff is on it's own ring and each vehicle has it's own key ring. Bad thing is leaving the key in the ignition and locking the doors. Luckily (maybe) that can't happen in the 66; you have to use the key to lock the driver door from the outside.
I can't lock myself out of the blazer either.
Soft top FTW
Soft top FTW
Yeah, if it comes to that old trucks are scary easy to break into. When I had my first truck, the 64 C10, I had a coat hanger stashed in the bed to use to get myself in the truck.I can't lock myself out of the blazer either.
Soft top FTW
lol, yup. I had an old car years ago where I kept a coat hanger wrapped up under the bumper for just such occasions. Why I was too cheap to put a second key under there I don't know, but I used the coat hanger regularly. 
When I worked at a junkyard,we would often find a "Hide-A-Key" magnetic box thing stuck somewhere under the vehicle,like a wheel well,frame rail,under the hood,etc..usually AFTER we pulled the ignition lock cylinder out with a dent puller,so we could see if the engine was any good! ..
Some of those things were so rusted away the only thing left was the magnet,with a rusted key stuck to it !..
..Some of those things were so rusted away the only thing left was the magnet,with a rusted key stuck to it !..
One nice thing about these trucks is the front disk upgrade is simple. You can replace the whole front suspension with parts from the 1973-87 trucks.
