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1968 C10 DD, project "New Tricks"

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Oh, and if you do find a short with the meter, don't freak out too much. It'll say there's a short in some cases like with light bulbs or electronic stuff. I'd check all the fuses to make sure they are hooked up correctly since when those are working correctly, they'll protect the rest of the system from dumb mistakes. Hopefully the worst that happens is you pop a fuse which makes it easier to track down what caused the problem.

I've also heard of people replacing the battery with a battery charger to test the system. The charger will power lots of the main circuits but if there's a big short, its internal breaker will protect it from over current. I think I tried this on mine and it gave me some piece of mind.
 
Checked for any shorts, didn't find any. Double check engine oil, good. Trans oil leaked a lot when I took the drive shaft slip out during install, so not sure how much is still left but its enough to run. Has coolant and PS fluid.

Cycled the key a few times until I could hear the pump build pressure. Checked fuel lines. Cycled key again to check fuel rail. Said a prayer and started it. It started soooo smooth. If I had my gauges in I'd drop it down and take it for a spin. Gotta be smart though, no gauges, no drive.

Oh that felt good.
Now on to fixing my really bad leak in the kitchen faucet.
 
Still working on the gauges. Everything else on the truck is wired. Some of the smaller wires is for my cruise control and torwue converter signal, gotta get those in too.



Wiring for the AC. Kind of messy looking but it's organized. At some point, when I get this thing painted, I'll go back in here and cut all the extra wire out to clean it up.


 
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AC hoses and wiring is done. Not over the moon about the hoses but the directions warned me about vibrations or having the hoses too tight. So I looped the two main lines coming from the compressor so it wouldn't vibrate at the other side. I will probably re-do the line going to the dryer, I don't see it having a problem.


 
All my wire mess. Got everything in a loom. Took a lot of planing where the wires would go. I think this is what took me the longest time. A far cry from the Blazer's wiring LOL. Almost center picture is the OBD connector. It's unpluged because the other side is bare wires. This is how most of my gauges get signal. Here's hoping Dakota Digita has the sh** together.




Fuel line and more wire loom, even tucked the tail light ribbon inside. Boy this stuff is nice looking, bought a box of 75ft. Boy this stuff is expensive. lol





Little more work to be done back here. Need to make a new mount for the bed, since the tank is in the way. Not hard at all, just ends up outside the frame rail instead of inside like the others. Cut the filler and vent hoses to size, then slap on the bed :D


 
Sweet, I fixed the running light thing. Fixed one other wire, finished the TCC, cruise, and TOW mode wires. Installed the gauges and set them up to either read the OBD signal or sending unit. Started the truck up. Fans come on when they should, all gauges work great. Dakota Digital says it's hit and miss whether the OBD port supplies certain "extra" information. Found out that the digital read out on the gauges also gives me Trans temp, intake temp, TRANSMISSION gear (which is cool) and some other useless crap. Tightened up some leaky coolant hoses, topped off the trans fluid and coolant. Power steering is good. Brakes are ok, but they feel like they need more bleeding. (have not driven it, only shifted from REV to D to Park.

I just need seat belts, mount my seat, mount the bed, and fix the tail lights.

But before those ^^^ can happen, I need to fix a couple problems I've come across.

1) I seem to be coughing blue smoke at erratic times, not idle, but when I fiddle with the gas pedal. This engine ran great in the truck it came out of. I saw it run for about 30-40 min. So I'm not sure if I'm sucking oil in or what.

2) Gas pedal is goofy. Push down slowly and it stumbles slightly, returns to idle even with pedal pushed. Push a little more and rpm goes up slightly, stumbles, and returns to idle. Not until 1/4 throttle, maybe, does the engine change, jumping to ~1200 rpm. It stays steady at 1200rpm and responds to cracking the throttle. First part of any throttle input is CACA. I need to double check the pin placement in the plug, then call BDengines. He calibrated the pedal for me.

Does anyone know how I can personally check throttle position? Can I barrow a SnapOn hand held scanner? Will that let me change it?
 
K85 Octane said:
Sweet, I fixed the running light thing. Fixed one other wire, finished the TCC, cruise, and TOW mode wires. Installed the gauges and set them up to either read the OBD signal or sending unit. Started the truck up. Fans come on when they should, all gauges work great. Dakota Digital says it's hit and miss whether the OBD port supplies certain "extra" information. Found out that the digital read out on the gauges also gives me Trans temp, intake temp, TRANSMISSION gear (which is cool) and some other useless crap. Tightened up some leaky coolant hoses, topped off the trans fluid and coolant. Power steering is good. Brakes are ok, but they feel like they need more bleeding. (have not driven it, only shifted from REV to D to Park.

I just need seat belts, mount my seat, mount the bed, and fix the tail lights.

But before those ^^^ can happen, I need to fix a couple problems I've come across.

1) I seem to be coughing blue smoke at erratic times, not idle, but when I fiddle with the gas pedal. This engine ran great in the truck it came out of. I saw it run for about 30-40 min. So I'm not sure if I'm sucking oil in or what.

2) Gas pedal is goofy. Push down slowly and it stumbles slightly, returns to idle even with pedal pushed. Push a little more and rpm goes up slightly, stumbles, and returns to idle. Not until 1/4 throttle, maybe, does the engine change, jumping to ~1200 rpm. It stays steady at 1200rpm and responds to cracking the throttle. First part of any throttle input is CACA. I need to double check the pin placement in the plug, then call BDengines. He calibrated the pedal for me.

Does anyone know how I can personally check throttle position? Can I barrow a SnapOn hand held scanner? Will that let me change it?
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Glad to see you got it running. Sounds good in the video.
I didn't know you could get trans temp from the OBDII, that's pretty handy. I have an OBDII reader that connects to my phone for gauge info so I'll have to check that out.

Sorry I'm not much help on the gas pedal. I'm not sure what he meant by "calibrate it" for you. Everybody I've talked to said you shouldn't mess with the pedal calibration at all since it is really easy to screw it up and can cause a lot of problems. If you need more help, I wouldn't be shy about contacting team208motorsports.
 
I must have gotten unsubscribed to this some how. Looking freeking awesome!!!
 
I feel like I had to do something to get the throttle pedal to sync with the throttle body? Its been awhile, so it may have been something that people said I needed but didnt actually. I want to say its key on push the pedal to the floor and let off all the way three times but thats the oil light reset. Sorry thats not much help.

The trucks looking sweet. I cant wait to have an engine in mine again
 
Little bit of daytime action. Threw the rubber mat I had been saving for the Blazer in. Figured it will do more good in here till I'm ready for interior. Hoping to get the seats installed tomorrow. I already have my 3 point seat belts but those go in after the seats. Still need to work on getting the bed back on. I am also leaning towards lifting the front an inch, I don't like having it this low. I'll need some new shocks too. This time I'm going through ECE instead of CPP, I don't want to give them any more of my money.

Truck seems to idle fine. I drove it around the block, which was way cool. Brakes seem fine. Truck likes to idle high in gear, or at least lets the idle climb while it's rolling. Not happy about that. Throttle sensitivity is wacky, so I don't trust it right now. I'm going to finish off the bed, seats, and belts here shortly. Then I'll trailer it to a local place called RPM Motors in Santa Clarita where they can dyno and tune the truck better. I might go back to a MAF at that point, since I'm paying to have it programmed again anyway. From there it's going to an alignment shop, they can swap out the 2" drop spring for a 1" drop spring, check all bolts, lube steering joints, and align. I'll need to finish running the AC ducting and have the system charged, for now the heater works :D After that, well....... I'm driving it. Maybe find time to add a radio too


 
PS> Does 58 psi sound right? Sucker is dead on.

just something I tried while searching for the crappy throttle feel
 
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