1968 C10 DD, project "New Tricks"

[sweetk30]

flux core wire not the best for this job of bolt removal.

vise grips on nut then ground clamp on engine block/head or vise grips if you have to but best on block .

center on the broken bolt then work it out in to the nut and fill in the nut so you get lots of heat in to the bolt .

also clean the broken bolt area good n shinny also if at all possible.

and gm updated the bolts to a 13mm head with flange over the tiny original 10mm heads .

and ford does studs and those pop just as bad .

 

[Stomis]

These things happen when you fasten into aluminum with steel. Buy stainless hardware.

 

[TerryD]

Antiseize!!

 

[sweetk30]

copper antiseize at that also .

 

[bigjbear]

copper antiseize at that also .

Copper or Silver Goop? I ask because we use silver at work for steel to aluminum.

 

[TerryD]

The silver is rated for higher temperatures but I've used the copper without issue on vehicle exhaust.

 

[82355]

Ground the engine. You won't get shocked.

Martin

 

[NorCalKid]

When you welded, did you run the ground clamp to the vise grips? I'm just worried about where the ground goes and possibly shocking myself lol

I grounded to the block. I was more worried about slag popping off and popping my tire and having the rig crush me . Get the weld nice and hot then let it cool for 15 or 20 min before you try to spin it out, thats were I went wrong till sweetk30 helped me out.

I went with stage 8 stainless hardware, so far they have been holding up but its only been 1000 miles or so

 

[K85 Octane]

WOOT, got the bolt out! Took 3 tries.

1) Heated the crap out of it. Wire brushed it clean. Welded. Waited 1 minute. Snapped off right away.

2) Heated, wire brushed, welded. Wait 10 minutes. Snapped off right away.

Seems like no penetration

3) Used small drill bit to drill all over broken bolt, making little dimples of shininess, heated, welded. Super slowly turned until it was out.

I'm sure it wasn't clean enough the first two times. Looked clean but not shiny.

WOOT WOOT

So here are the choices I'm looking at for replacements.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-434-1301/overview/make/chevrolet
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-434-1102/overview/make/chevrolet
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-1102/overview/make/chevrolet
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-1101/overview/make/chevrolet
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-434-1101/overview/make/chevrolet

I've got an order for Summit ready that includes a Griffin radiator, hoses, and some gaskets. Once I figure out the bolts, I'll place it.

Also just placed an order with LMC. Getting the correct body mounts and oversized radiator mounts with pads also.

Rockauto: ordered some other gaskets, O-rings, ignition stuff, oil filter, serp belt, and a WIX fuel filter with pressure regulator.

Cup Noodles 3 times a day for the next month LOL

 

[drew4x4]

subscribed!! i didn't know you were working on an LS swap until i saw your thread in the garage!

 

[NorCalKid]

I am found a summit brand universal aluminum radiator for under $200 if I remember right, works like a charm and fit the stock mounts with just a little massaging. Not sure if you're set on the griffin but it could save you at least couple hundred. I can dig up a part number and take some pictures of my mounting if you want.

 

[K85 Octane]

The TBSS manifolds are a perfect fit. I like the coating color I went with too, kinda rolled the dice on it. I did black on the blazer and it turns purple-ish. The manifolds that came off the engine (suburban) hit the frame horribly and have larger mains, but luckily I already read about that and bought the TBSS manifolds before I even had an engine






Torn into some of the top stuff to replace the gaskets. I already did the oil pan when I changed it. Got a couple shots of the cam lobes too. I need to clean up the intake before I put it back on. The thing is dirty and oily. Not sure how to go about cleaning it though.

 

[K85 Octane]

Got it moved back another 2.5". I was trying for 3" but the lower mounting hole was off the lower crossmember. So without lower support, I went back to plan A, and simply moved the mounts into the inline 6 position. Still need to drill 4 holes for the trans crossmember to complete the install. Now I can measure for my driveshaft and start working on my shifter linkage.

 

[6872xtc]

Cool! I thought about your build a couple of days ago when I was under the hood on my '72. There is a lot of room back there in stock form. I hope your work is apparent in how it handles so that you get some more smiles!!

 

[K85 Octane]

Some day down the road, maybe when I get another daily driver, I'll cut into the firewall and sink the motor in another 4". The intake wont hit but the heads will.

I found some neat trans cooler adapters. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the hard lines so I think going to 6AN right at the trans and running braided lines to the radiator sounds easiest.

Right now I'm struggling over the fuel system. I have the "vette" filter/regulator but I'm having a hard time sourcing the rest of the stuff. I still need to clean out the intake, run the brake lines, fuel lines, and figure out the shifter linkage (without having a column lol). Then I can get some exhaust done. The engine harness and computer are going out next couple days to get done. Oh yeah, and re-wire the whole truck

 

[K85 Octane]

Found this image but have no idea what adapters these are.

 

[r3dd0g]

That looks like the same stuff I used. I picked them up at a local place, but they are Chevy quick disconnect to A/N fittings.

Something like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15118/overview/

 

[K85 Octane]

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/adapt_fit/fuel-efi.shtml

Is it the first blue adapter and first silver adapter on this page?

 

[Babaganoosh]

I have this all written down, I will have to find it. I went with push lock hose.

 

[K85 Octane]

This is all Summit has. Know if this will work? I'd love to go AN fitting on the other side. Makes things easy and secure.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644120